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breathing； rustic landscape； and as I continued to descend； the
highlands of Gevaudan kept mounting in front of me against the sky。
I had crossed the Loire the day before； now I was to cross the
Allier； so near are these two confluents in their youth。 Just at
the bridge of Langogne； as the long…promised rain was beginning to
fall； a lassie of some seven or eight addressed me in the
sacramental phrase； 'D'OU'ST…CE…QUE VOUS VENEZ？' She did it with
so high an air that she set me laughing； and this cut her to the
quick。 She was evidently one who reckoned on respect； and stood
looking after me in silent dudgeon； as I crossed the bridge and
entered the county of Gevaudan。
UPPER GEVAUDAN
The way also here was very wearisome through dirt and slabbiness；
nor was there on all this ground so much as one inn or victualling…
house wherein to refresh the feebler sort。
PILGRIM'S PROGRESS。
A CAMP IN THE DARK
THE next day （Tuesday； September 24th）； it was two o'clock in the
afternoon before I got my journal written up and my knapsack
repaired； for I was determined to carry my knapsack in the future
and have no more ado with baskets； and half an hour afterwards I
set out for Le Cheylard l'Eveque； a place on the borders of the
forest of Mercoire。 A man； I was told； should walk there in an
hour and a half； and I thought it scarce too ambitious to suppose
that a man encumbered with a donkey might cover the same distance
in four hours。
All the way up the long hill from Langogne it rained and hailed
alternately； the wind kept freshening steadily； although slowly；
plentiful hurrying clouds … some dragging veils of straight rain…
shower； others massed and luminous as though promising snow …
careered out of the north and followed me along my way。 I was soon
out of the cultivated basin of the Allier； and away from the
ploughing oxen； and such…like sights of the country。 Moor；
heathery marsh； tracts of rock and pines； woods of birch all
jewelled with the autumn yellow； here and there a few naked
cottages and bleak fields； … these were the characters of the
country。 Hill and valley followed valley and hill； the little
green and stony cattle…tracks wandered in and out of one another；
split into three or four； died away in marshy hollows； and began
again sporadically on hillsides or at the borders of a wood。
There was no direct road to Cheylard； and it was no easy affair to
make a passage in this uneven country and through this intermittent
labyrinth of tracks。 It must have been about four when I struck
Sagnerousse； and went on my way rejoicing in a sure point of
departure。 Two hours afterwards； the dusk rapidly falling； in a
lull of the wind； I issued from a fir…wood where I had long been
wandering； and found； not the looked…for village； but another
marish bottom among rough…and…tumble hills。 For some time past I
had heard the ringing of cattle…bells ahead； and now； as I came out
of the skirts of the wood； I saw near upon a dozen cows and perhaps
as many more black figures； which I conjectured to be children；
although the mist had almost unrecognisably exaggerated their
forms。 These were all silently following each other round and
round in a circle； now taking hands； now breaking up with chains
and reverences。 A dance of children appeals to very innocent and
lively thoughts； but； at nightfall on the marshes； the thing was
eerie and fantastic to behold。 Even I； who am well enough read in
Herbert Spencer； felt a sort of silence fall for an instant on my
mind。 The next； I was pricking Modestine forward； and guiding her
like an unruly ship through the open。 In a path； she went doggedly
ahead of her own accord； as before a fair wind； but once on the
turf or among heather； and the brute became demented。 The tendency
of lost travellers to go round in a circle was developed in her to
the degree of passion； and it took all the steering I had in me to
keep even a decently straight course through a single field。
While I was thus desperately tacking through the bog； children and
cattle began to disperse； until only a pair of girls remained
behind。 From these I sought direction on my path。 The peasantry
in general were but little disposed to counsel a wayfarer。 One old
devil simply retired into his house； and barricaded the door on my
approach； and I might beat and shout myself hoarse； he turned a
deaf ear。 Another； having given me a direction which； as I found
afterwards； I had misunderstood； complacently watched me going
wrong without adding a sign。 He did not care a stalk of parsley if
I wandered all night upon the hills！ As for these two girls； they
were a pair of impudent sly sluts； with not a thought but mischief。
One put out her tongue at me； the other bade me follow the cows；
and they both giggled and jogged each other's elbows。 The Beast of
Gevaudan ate about a hundred children of this district； I began to
think of him with sympathy。
Leaving the girls； I pushed on through the bog； and got into
another wood and upon a well…marked road。 It grew darker and
darker。 Modestine； suddenly beginning to smell mischief； bettered
the pace of her own accord； and from that time forward gave me no
trouble。 It was the first sign of intelligence I had occasion to
remark in her。 At the same time； the wind freshened into half a
gale； and another heavy discharge of rain came flying up out of the
north。 At the other side of the wood I sighted some red windows in
the dusk。 This was the hamlet of Fouzilhic； three houses on a
hillside； near a wood of birches。 Here I found a delightful old
man； who came a little way with me in the rain to put me safely on
the road for Cheylard。 He would hear of no reward； but shook his
hands above his head almost as if in menace； and refused volubly
and shrilly； in unmitigated PATOIS。
All seemed right at last。 My thoughts began to turn upon dinner
and a fireside； and my heart was agreeably softened in my bosom。
Alas； and I was on the brink of new and greater miseries！
Suddenly； at a single swoop； the night fell。 I have been abroad in
many a black night； but never in a blacker。 A glimmer of rocks； a
glimmer of the track where it was well beaten； a certain fleecy
density； or night within night； for a tree； … this was all that I
could discriminate。 The sky was simply darkness overhead； even the
flying clouds pursued their way invisibly to human eyesight。 I
could not distinguish my hand at arm's…length from the track； nor
my goad； at the same distance； from the meadows or the sky。
Soon the road that I was following split； after the fashion of the
country； into three or four in a piece of rocky meadow。 Since
Modestine had shown such a fancy for beaten roads； I tried her
instinct in this predicament。 But the instinct of an ass is what
might be expected from the name； in half a minute she was
clambering round and round among some boulders； as lost a donkey as
you would wish to see。 I should have camped long before had I been
properly provided； but as this was to be so short a stage； I had
brought no wine； no bread for myself； and little over a pound for
my lady friend。 Add to this； that I and Modestine were both
handsomely wetted by the showers。 But now； if I could have found
some water； I should have camped at once in spite of all。 Water；
however； being entirely absent； except in the form of rain； I
determined to return to Fouzilhic； and ask a guide a little farther
on my way … 'a little farther lend thy guiding hand。'
The thing was easy to decide； hard to accomplish。 In this sensible
roaring blackness I was sure of nothing but the direction of the
wind。 To this I set my face； the road had disappeared； and I went
across country； now in marshy opens； now baffled by wa