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travels with a donkey in the cevennes-第5章

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'It is just that;' said I。



'You see;' she added to her husband; 'I understood that。'



They were both much interested by the story of my misadventures。



'In the morning;' said the husband; 'I will make you something 

better than your cane。  Such a beast as that feels nothing; it is 

in the proverb … DUR COMME UN ANE; you might beat her insensible 

with a cudgel; and yet you would arrive nowhere。'



Something better!  I little knew what he was offering。



The sleeping…room was furnished with two beds。  I had one; and I 

will own I was a little abashed to find a young man and his wife 

and child in the act of mounting into the other。  This was my first 

experience of the sort; and if I am always to feel equally silly 

and extraneous; I pray God it be my last as well。  I kept my eyes 

to myself; and know nothing of the woman except that she had 

beautiful arms; and seemed no whit embarrassed by my appearance。  

As a matter of fact; the situation was more trying to me than to 

the pair。  A pair keep each other in countenance; it is the single 

gentleman who has to blush。  But I could not help attributing my 

sentiments to the husband; and sought to conciliate his tolerance 

with a cup of brandy from my flask。  He told me that he was a 

cooper of Alais travelling to St。 Etienne in search of work; and 

that in his spare moments he followed the fatal calling of a maker 

of matches。  Me he readily enough divined to be a brandy merchant。



I was up first in the morning (Monday; September 23rd); and 

hastened my toilette guiltily; so as to leave a clear field for 

madam; the cooper's wife。  I drank a bowl of milk; and set off to 

explore the neighbourhood of Bouchet。  It was perishing cold; a 

grey; windy; wintry morning; misty clouds flew fast and low; the 

wind piped over the naked platform; and the only speck of colour 

was away behind Mount Mezenc and the eastern hills; where the sky 

still wore the orange of the dawn。



It was five in the morning; and four thousand feet above the sea; 

and I had to bury my hands in my pockets and trot。  People were 

trooping out to the labours of the field by twos and threes; and 

all turned round to stare upon the stranger。  I had seen them 

coming back last night; I saw them going afield again; and there 

was the life of Bouchet in a nutshell。



When I came back to the inn for a bit of breakfast; the landlady 

was in the kitchen combing out her daughter's hair; and I made her 

my compliments upon its beauty。



'Oh no;' said the mother; 'it is not so beautiful as it ought to 

be。  Look; it is too fine。'



Thus does a wise peasantry console itself under adverse physical 

circumstances; and; by a startling democratic process; the defects 

of the majority decide the type of beauty。



'And where;' said I; 'is monsieur?'



'The master of the house is upstairs;' she answered; 'making you a 

goad。'



Blessed be the man who invented goads!  Blessed the innkeeper of 

Bouchet St。 Nicolas; who introduced me to their use!  This plain 

wand; with an eighth of an inch of pin; was indeed a sceptre when 

he put it in my hands。  Thenceforward Modestine was my slave。  A 

prick; and she passed the most inviting stable door。  A prick; and 

she broke forth into a gallant little trotlet that devoured the 

miles。  It was not a remarkable speed; when all was said; and we 

took four hours to cover ten miles at the best of it。  But what a 

heavenly change since yesterday!  No more wielding of the ugly 

cudgel; no more flailing with an aching arm; no more broadsword 

exercise; but a discreet and gentlemanly fence。  And what although 

now and then a drop of blood should appear on Modestine's mouse…

coloured wedge…like rump?  I should have preferred it otherwise; 

indeed; but yesterday's exploits had purged my heart of all 

humanity。  The perverse little devil; since she would not be taken 

with kindness; must even go with pricking。



It was bleak and bitter cold; and; except a cavalcade of stride…

legged ladies and a pair of post…runners; the road was dead 

solitary all the way to Pradelles。  I scarce remember an incident 

but one。  A handsome foal with a bell about his neck came charging 

up to us upon a stretch of common; sniffed the air martially as one 

about to do great deeds; and suddenly thinking otherwise in his 

green young heart; put about and galloped off as he had come; the 

bell tinkling in the wind。  For a long while afterwards I saw his 

noble attitude as he drew up; and heard the note of his bell; and 

when I struck the high…road; the song of the telegraph…wires seemed 

to continue the same music。



Pradelles stands on a hillside; high above the Allier; surrounded 

by rich meadows。  They were cutting aftermath on all sides; which 

gave the neighbourhood; this gusty autumn morning; an untimely 

smell of hay。  On the opposite bank of the Allier the land kept 

mounting for miles to the horizon:  a tanned and sallow autumn 

landscape; with black blots of fir…wood and white roads wandering 

through the hills。  Over all this the clouds shed a uniform and 

purplish shadow; sad and somewhat menacing; exaggerating height and 

distance; and throwing into still higher relief the twisted ribbons 

of the highway。  It was a cheerless prospect; but one stimulating 

to a traveller。  For I was now upon the limit of Velay; and all 

that I beheld lay in another county … wild Gevaudan; mountainous; 

uncultivated; and but recently disforested from terror of the 

wolves。



Wolves; alas; like bandits; seem to flee the traveller's advance; 

and you may trudge through all our comfortable Europe; and not meet 

with an adventure worth the name。  But here; if anywhere; a man was 

on the frontiers of hope。  For this was the land of the ever…

memorable BEAST; the Napoleon Bonaparte of wolves。  What a career 

was his!  He lived ten months at free quarters in Gevaudan and 

Vivarais; he ate women and children and 'shepherdesses celebrated 

for their beauty'; he pursued armed horsemen; he has been seen at 

broad noonday chasing a post…chaise and outrider along the king's 

high…road; and chaise and outrider fleeing before him at the 

gallop。  He was placarded like a political offender; and ten 

thousand francs were offered for his head。  And yet; when he was 

shot and sent to Versailles; behold! a common wolf; and even small 

for that。  'Though I could reach from pole to pole;' sang Alexander 

Pope; the Little Corporal shook Europe; and if all wolves had been 

as this wolf; they would have changed the history of man。  M。 Elie 

Berthet has made him the hero of a novel; which I have read; and do 

not wish to read again。



I hurried over my lunch; and was proof against the landlady's 

desire that I should visit our Lady of Pradelles; 'who performed 

many miracles; although she was of wood'; and before three…quarters 

of an hour I was goading Modestine down the steep descent that 

leads to Langogne on the Allier。  On both sides of the road; in big 

dusty fields; farmers were preparing for next spring。  Every fifty 

yards a yoke of great…necked stolid oxen were patiently haling at 

the plough。  I saw one of these mild formidable servants of the 

glebe; who took a sudden interest in Modestine and me。  The furrow 

down which he was journeying lay at an angle to the road; and his 

head was solidly fixed to the yoke like those of caryatides below a 

ponderous cornice; but he screwed round his big honest eyes and 

followed us with a ruminating look; until his master bade him turn 

the plough and proceed to reascend the field。  From all these 

furrowing ploughshares; from the feet of oxen; from a labourer here 

and there who was breaking the dry clods with a hoe; the wind 

carried away a thin dust like so much smoke。  It was a fine; busy; 

breathing; rustic landscape; and as I continued to descend; the 

highlands of Gevaudan kept mounting in front of m
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