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it is none of our business。 Protestants and Catholics； and even
those who worship stones； may know Him and be known by Him； for He
has made all。'
I did not know I was so good a preacher。
The old man assured me he thought as I did； and repeated his
expressions of pleasure at meeting me。 'We are so few；' he said。
'They call us Moravians here； but down in the Department of Gard；
where there are also a good number； they are called Derbists； after
an English pastor。'
I began to understand that I was figuring； in questionable taste；
as a member of some sect to me unknown； but I was more pleased with
the pleasure of my companion than embarrassed by my own equivocal
position。 Indeed； I can see no dishonesty in not avowing a
difference； and especially in these high matters； where we have all
a sufficient assurance that； whoever may be in the wrong； we
ourselves are not completely in the right。 The truth is much
talked about； but this old man in a brown nightcap showed himself
so simple； sweet； and friendly； that I am not unwilling to profess
myself his convert。 He was； as a matter of fact； a Plymouth
Brother。 Of what that involves in the way of doctrine I have no
idea nor the time to inform myself； but I know right well that we
are all embarked upon a troublesome world； the children of one
Father； striving in many essential points to do and to become the
same。 And although it was somewhat in a mistake that he shook
hands with me so often and showed himself so ready to receive my
words； that was a mistake of the truth…finding sort。 For charity
begins blindfold； and only through a series of similar
misapprehensions rises at length into a settled principle of love
and patience； and a firm belief in all our fellow…men。 If I
deceived this good old man； in the like manner I would willingly go
on to deceive others。 And if ever at length； out of our separate
and sad ways； we should all come together into one common house； I
have a hope； to which I cling dearly； that my mountain Plymouth
Brother will hasten to shake hands with me again。
Thus； talking like Christian and Faithful by the way； he and I came
down upon a hamlet by the Tarn。 It was but a humble place； called
La Vernede； with less than a dozen houses； and a Protestant chapel
on a knoll。 Here he dwelt； and here； at the inn； I ordered my
breakfast。 The inn was kept by an agreeable young man； a stone…
breaker on the road； and his sister； a pretty and engaging girl。
The village schoolmaster dropped in to speak with the stranger。
And these were all Protestants … a fact which pleased me more than
I should have expected； and； what pleased me still more； they
seemed all upright and simple people。 The Plymouth Brother hung
round me with a sort of yearning interest； and returned at least
thrice to make sure I was enjoying my meal。 His behaviour touched
me deeply at the time； and even now moves me in recollection。 He
feared to intrude； but he would not willingly forego one moment of
my society； and he seemed never weary of shaking me by the hand。
When all the rest had drifted off to their day's work； I sat for
near half an hour with the young mistress of the house； who talked
pleasantly over her seam of the chestnut harvest； and the beauties
of the Tarn； and old family affections； broken up when young folk
go from home； yet still subsisting。 Hers； I am sure； was a sweet
nature； with a country plainness and much delicacy underneath； and
he who takes her to his heart will doubtless be a fortunate young
man。
The valley below La Vernede pleased me more and more as I went
forward。 Now the hills approached from either hand； naked and
crumbling； and walled in the river between cliffs； and now the
valley widened and became green。 The road led me past the old
castle of Miral on a steep； past a battlemented monastery； long
since broken up and turned into a church and parsonage； and past a
cluster of black roofs； the village of Cocures； sitting among
vineyards； and meadows； and orchards thick with red apples； and
where； along the highway； they were knocking down walnuts from the
roadside trees； and gathering them in sacks and baskets。 The
hills； however much the vale might open； were still tall and bare；
with cliffy battlements and here and there a pointed summit； and
the Tarn still rattled through the stones with a mountain noise。 I
had been led； by bagmen of a picturesque turn of mind； to expect a
horrific country after the heart of Byron； but to my Scottish eyes
it seemed smiling and plentiful； as the weather still gave an
impression of high summer to my Scottish body； although the
chestnuts were already picked out by the autumn； and the poplars；
that here began to mingle with them； had turned into pale gold
against the approach of winter。
There was something in this landscape； smiling although wild； that
explained to me the spirit of the Southern Covenanters。 Those who
took to the hills for conscience' sake in Scotland had all gloomy
and bedevilled thoughts； for once that they received God's comfort
they would be twice engaged with Satan； but the Camisards had only
bright and supporting visions。 They dealt much more in blood； both
given and taken； yet I find no obsession of the Evil One in their
records。 With a light conscience； they pursued their life in these
rough times and circumstances。 The soul of Seguier； let us not
forget； was like a garden。 They knew they were on God's side； with
a knowledge that has no parallel among the Scots； for the Scots；
although they might be certain of the cause； could never rest
confident of the person。
'We flew；' says one old Camisard； 'when we heard the sound of
psalm…singing； we flew as if with wings。 We felt within us an
animating ardour； a transporting desire。 The feeling cannot be
expressed in words。 It is a thing that must have been experienced
to be understood。 However weary we might be； we thought no more of
our weariness； and grew light so soon as the psalms fell upon our
ears。'
The valley of the Tarn and the people whom I met at La Vernede not
only explain to me this passage； but the twenty years of suffering
which those； who were so stiff and so bloody when once they betook
themselves to war； endured with the meekness of children and the
constancy of saints and peasants。
FLORAC
ON a branch of the Tarn stands Florac； the seat of a sub…
prefecture； with an old castle； an alley of planes； many quaint
street…corners； and a live fountain welling from the hill。 It is
notable； besides； for handsome women； and as one of the two
capitals； Alais being the other； of the country of the Camisards。
The landlord of the inn took me； after I had eaten； to an adjoining
cafe； where I； or rather my journey； became the topic of the
afternoon。 Every one had some suggestion for my guidance； and the
sub…prefectorial map was fetched from the sub…prefecture itself；
and much thumbed among coffee…cups and glasses of liqueur。 Most of
these kind advisers were Protestant； though I observed that
Protestant and Catholic intermingled in a very easy manner； and it
surprised me to see what a lively memory still subsisted of the
religious war。 Among the hills of the south…west； by Mauchline；
Cumnock； or Carsphairn； in isolated farms or in the manse； serious
Presbyterian people still recall the days of the great persecution；
and the graves of local martyrs are still piously regarded。 But in
towns and among the so…called better classes； I fear that these old
doings have become an idle tale。 If you met a mixed company in the
King's Arms at Wigton； it is not likely that the talk would run on
Covenanters。 Nay； at Muirkirk of Glenluce； I found the beadle's
wife had not so much as heard of Prophet Peden。 But these Cevenols
wer