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The position was unpleasantly exposed。 One or two carts went by
upon the road； and as long as daylight lasted I concealed myself；
for all the world like a hunted Camisard； behind my fortification
of vast chestnut trunk； for I was passionately afraid of discovery
and the visit of jocular persons in the night。 Moreover； I saw
that I must be early awake； for these chestnut gardens had been the
scene of industry no further gone than on the day before。 The
slope was strewn with lopped branches； and here and there a great
package of leaves was propped against a trunk； for even the leaves
are serviceable； and the peasants use them in winter by way of
fodder for their animals。 I picked a meal in fear and trembling；
half lying down to hide myself from the road； and I daresay I was
as much concerned as if I had been a scout from Joani's band above
upon the Lozere； or from Salomon's across the Tarn； in the old
times of psalm…singing and blood。 Or； indeed； perhaps more； for
the Camisards had a remarkable confidence in God； and a tale comes
back into my memory of how the Count of Gevaudan； riding with a
party of dragoons and a notary at his saddlebow to enforce the oath
of fidelity in all the country hamlets； entered a valley in the
woods； and found Cavalier and his men at dinner； gaily seated on
the grass； and their hats crowned with box…tree garlands； while
fifteen women washed their linen in the stream。 Such was a field
festival in 1703； at that date Antony Watteau would be painting
similar subjects。
This was a very different camp from that of the night before in the
cool and silent pine…woods。 It was warm and even stifling in the
valley。 The shrill song of frogs； like the tremolo note of a
whistle with a pea in it； rang up from the river…side before the
sun was down。 In the growing dusk； faint rustlings began to run to
and fro among the fallen leaves； from time to time a faint chirping
or cheeping noise would fall upon my ear； and from time to time I
thought I could see the movement of something swift and indistinct
between the chestnuts。 A profusion of large ants swarmed upon the
ground； bats whisked by； and mosquitoes droned overhead。 The long
boughs with their bunches of leaves hung against the sky like
garlands； and those immediately above and around me had somewhat
the air of a trellis which should have been wrecked and half
overthrown in a gale of wind。
Sleep for a long time fled my eyelids； and just as I was beginning
to feel quiet stealing over my limbs； and settling densely on my
mind； a noise at my head startled me broad awake again； and； I will
frankly confess it； brought my heart into my mouth。
It was such a noise as a person would make scratching loudly with a
finger…nail； it came from under the knapsack which served me for a
pillow； and it was thrice repeated before I had time to sit up and
turn about。 Nothing was to be seen； nothing more was to be heard；
but a few of these mysterious rustlings far and near； and the
ceaseless accompaniment of the river and the frogs。 I learned next
day that the chestnut gardens are infested by rats； rustling；
chirping； and scraping were probably all due to these； but the
puzzle； for the moment； was insoluble； and I had to compose myself
for sleep； as best I could； in wondering uncertainty about my
neighbours。
I was wakened in the grey of the morning （Monday； 30th September）
by the sound of foot…steps not far off upon the stones； and opening
my eyes； I beheld a peasant going by among the chestnuts by a
footpath that I had not hitherto observed。 He turned his head
neither to the right nor to the left； and disappeared in a few
strides among the foliage。 Here was an escape！ But it was plainly
more than time to be moving。 The peasantry were abroad； scarce
less terrible to me in my nondescript position than the soldiers of
Captain Poul to an undaunted Camisard。 I fed Modestine with what
haste I could； but as I was returning to my sack； I saw a man and a
boy come down the hillside in a direction crossing mine。 They
unintelligibly hailed me； and I replied with inarticulate but
cheerful sounds； and hurried forward to get into my gaiters。
The pair； who seemed to be father and son； came slowly up to the
plateau； and stood close beside me for some time in silence。 The
bed was open； and I saw with regret my revolver lying patently
disclosed on the blue wool。 At last； after they had looked me all
over； and the silence had grown laughably embarrassing； the man
demanded in what seemed unfriendly tones：
'You have slept here？'
'Yes；' said I。 'As you see。'
'Why？' he asked。
'My faith；' I answered lightly； 'I was tired。'
He next inquired where I was going and what I had had for dinner；
and then； without the least transition； 'C'EST BIEN；' he added；
'come along。' And he and his son； without another word； turned off
to the next chestnut…tree but one； which they set to pruning。 The
thing had passed of more simply than I hoped。 He was a grave；
respectable man； and his unfriendly voice did not imply that he
thought he was speaking to a criminal； but merely to an inferior。
I was soon on the road； nibbling a cake of chocolate and seriously
occupied with a case of conscience。 Was I to pay for my night's
lodging？ I had slept ill； the bed was full of fleas in the shape
of ants； there was no water in the room； the very dawn had
neglected to call me in the morning。 I might have missed a train；
had there been any in the neighbourhood to catch。 Clearly； I was
dissatisfied with my entertainment； and I decided I should not pay
unless I met a beggar。
The valley looked even lovelier by morning； and soon the road
descended to the level of the river。 Here； in a place where many
straight and prosperous chestnuts stood together； making an aisle
upon a swarded terrace； I made my morning toilette in the water of
the Tarn。 It was marvellously clear； thrillingly cool； the soap…
suds disappeared as if by magic in the swift current； and the white
boulders gave one a model for cleanliness。 To wash in one of God's
rivers in the open air seems to me a sort of cheerful solemnity or
semi…pagan act of worship。 To dabble among dishes in a bedroom may
perhaps make clean the body； but the imagination takes no share in
such a cleansing。 I went on with a light and peaceful heart； and
sang psalms to the spiritual ear as I advanced。
Suddenly up came an old woman； who point…blank demanded alms。
'Good；' thought I； 'here comes the waiter with the bill。'
And I paid for my night's lodging on the spot。 Take it how you
please； but this was the first and the last beggar that I met with
during all my tour。
A step or two farther I was overtaken by an old man in a brown
nightcap； clear…eyed； weather…beaten； with a faint excited smile。
A little girl followed him； driving two sheep and a goat； but she
kept in our wake； while the old man walked beside me and talked
about the morning and the valley。 It was not much past six； and
for healthy people who have slept enough； that is an hour of
expansion and of open and trustful talk。
'CONNAISSEZ…VOUS LE SEIGNEUR？' he said at length。
I asked him what Seigneur he meant； but he only repeated the
question with more emphasis and a look in his eyes denoting hope
and interest。
'Ah；' said I； pointing upwards； 'I understand you now。 Yes； I know
Him； He is the best of acquaintances。'
The old man said he was delighted。 'Hold；' he added； striking his
bosom； 'it makes me happy here。' There were a few who knew the
Lord in these valleys； he went on to tell me； not many； but a few。
'Many are called。' he quoted； 'and few chosen。'
'My father；' said I； 'it is not easy to say who know the Lord； and
it is none of our business。 Protestants and Ca