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Covenanters。 Nay； at Muirkirk of Glenluce； I found the beadle's
wife had not so much as heard of Prophet Peden。 But these Cevenols
were proud of their ancestors in quite another sense； the war was
their chosen topic； its exploits were their own patent of nobility；
and where a man or a race has had but one adventure； and that
heroic； we must expect and pardon some prolixity of reference。
They told me the country was still full of legends hitherto
uncollected； I heard from them about Cavalier's descendants … not
direct descendants； be it understood； but only cousins or nephews …
who were still prosperous people in the scene of the boy…general's
exploits； and one farmer had seen the bones of old combatants dug
up into the air of an afternoon in the nineteenth century； in a
field where the ancestors had fought； and the great…grandchildren
were peaceably ditching。
Later in the day one of the Protestant pastors was so good as to
visit me： a young man； intelligent and polite； with whom I passed
an hour or two in talk。 Florac； he told me； is part Protestant；
part Catholic； and the difference in religion is usually doubled by
a difference in politics。 You may judge of my surprise； coming as
I did from such a babbling purgatorial Poland of a place as
Monastier； when I learned that the population lived together on
very quiet terms； and there was even an exchange of hospitalities
between households thus doubly separated。 Black Camisard and White
Camisard； militiaman and Miquelet and dragoon； Protestant prophet
and Catholic cadet of the White Cross； they had all been sabring
and shooting； burning； pillaging； and murdering； their hearts hot
with indignant passion； and here； after a hundred and seventy
years； Protestant is still Protestant； Catholic still Catholic； in
mutual toleration and mild amity of life。 But the race of man；
like that indomitable nature whence it sprang； has medicating
virtues of its own； the years and seasons bring various harvests；
the sun returns after the rain； and mankind outlives secular
animosities； as a single man awakens from the passions of a day。
We judge our ancestors from a more divine position； and the dust
being a little laid with several centuries； we can see both sides
adorned with human virtues and fighting with a show of right。
I have never thought it easy to be just； and find it daily even
harder than I thought。 I own I met these Protestants with a
delight and a sense of coming home。 I was accustomed to speak
their language； in another and deeper sense of the word than that
which distinguishes between French and English； for the true Babel
is a divergence upon morals。 And hence I could hold more free
communication with the Protestants； and judge them more justly；
than the Catholics。 Father Apollinaris may pair off with my
mountain Plymouth Brother as two guileless and devout old men； yet
I ask myself if I had as ready a feeling for the virtues of the
Trappist； or； had I been a Catholic； if I should have felt so
warmly to the dissenter of La Vernede。 With the first I was on
terms of mere forbearance； but with the other； although only on a
misunderstanding and by keeping on selected points； it was still
possible to hold converse and exchange some honest thoughts。 In
this world of imperfection we gladly welcome even partial
intimacies。 And if we find but one to whom we can speak out of our
heart freely； with whom we can walk in love and simplicity without
dissimulation； we have no ground of quarrel with the world or God。
IN THE VALLEY OF THE MIMENTE
ON Tuesday； 1st October； we left Florac late in the afternoon； a
tired donkey and tired donkey…driver。 A little way up the Tarnon；
a covered bridge of wood introduced us into the valley of the
Mimente。 Steep rocky red mountains overhung the stream； great oaks
and chestnuts grew upon the slopes or in stony terraces； here and
there was a red field of millet or a few apple…trees studded with
red apples； and the road passed hard by two black hamlets； one with
an old castle atop to please the heart of the tourist。
It was difficult here again to find a spot fit for my encampment。
Even under the oaks and chestnuts the ground had not only a very
rapid slope； but was heaped with loose stones； and where there was
no timber the hills descended to the stream in a red precipice
tufted with heather。 The sun had left the highest peak in front of
me； and the valley was full of the lowing sound of herdsmen's horns
as they recalled the flocks into the stable； when I spied a bight
of meadow some way below the roadway in an angle of the river。
Thither I descended； and； tying Modestine provisionally to a tree；
proceeded to investigate the neighbourhood。 A grey pearly evening
shadow filled the glen； objects at a little distance grew
indistinct and melted bafflingly into each other； and the darkness
was rising steadily like an exhalation。 I approached a great oak
which grew in the meadow； hard by the river's brink； when to my
disgust the voices of children fell upon my ear； and I beheld a
house round the angle on the other bank。 I had half a mind to pack
and be gone again； but the growing darkness moved me to remain。 I
had only to make no noise until the night was fairly come； and
trust to the dawn to call me early in the morning。 But it was hard
to be annoyed by neighbours in such a great hotel。
A hollow underneath the oak was my bed。 Before I had fed Modestine
and arranged my sack； three stars were already brightly shining；
and the others were beginning dimly to appear。 I slipped down to
the river； which looked very black among its rocks； to fill my can；
and dined with a good appetite in the dark； for I scrupled to light
a lantern while so near a house。 The moon； which I had seen a
pallid crescent all afternoon； faintly illuminated the summit of
the hills； but not a ray fell into the bottom of the glen where I
was lying。 The oak rose before me like a pillar of darkness； and
overhead the heartsome stars were set in the face of the night。 No
one knows the stars who has not slept； as the French happily put
it； A LA BELLE ETOILE。 He may know all their names and distances
and magnitudes； and yet be ignorant of what alone concerns mankind；
… their serene and gladsome influence on the mind。 The greater
part of poetry is about the stars； and very justly； for they are
themselves the most classical of poets。 These same far…away
worlds； sprinkled like tapers or shaken together like a diamond
dust upon the sky； had looked not otherwise to Roland or Cavalier；
when； in the words of the latter； they had 'no other tent but the
sky； and no other bed than my mother earth。'
All night a strong wind blew up the valley； and the acorns fell
pattering over me from the oak。 Yet； on this first night of
October； the air was as mild as May； and I slept with the fur
thrown back。
I was much disturbed by the barking of a dog； an animal that I fear
more than any wolf。 A dog is vastly braver； and is besides
supported by the sense of duty。 If you kill a wolf； you meet with
encouragement and praise； but if you kill a dog； the sacred rights
of property and the domestic affections come clamouring round you
for redress。 At the end of a fagging day； the sharp cruel note of
a dog's bark is in itself a keen annoyance； and to a tramp like
myself； he represents the sedentary and respectable world in its
most hostile form。 There is something of the clergyman or the
lawyer about this engaging animal； and if he were not amenable to
stones； the boldest man would shrink from travelling afoot。 I
respect dogs much in the domestic circle； but on the highway； or
sleeping afield； I both detest and fear them。
I was wakened next morning （Wednesday； October 2nd） by the same dog
…