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travels with a donkey in the cevennes-第18章

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psalm…singers were already at his door; fifty strong; led by the 

inspired Seguier; and breathing death。  To their summons; the 

archpriest made answer like a stout old persecutor; and bade his 

garrison fire upon the mob。  One Camisard (for; according to some; 

it was in this night's work that they came by the name) fell at 

this discharge:  his comrades burst in the door with hatchets and a 

beam of wood; overran the lower story of the house; set free the 

prisoners; and finding one of them in the VINE; a sort of 

Scavenger's Daughter of the place and period; redoubled in fury 

against Du Chayla; and sought by repeated assaults to carry the 

upper floors。  But he; on his side; had given absolution to his 

men; and they bravely held the staircase。



'Children of God;' cried the prophet; 'hold your hands。  Let us 

burn the house; with the priest and the satellites of Baal。'



The fire caught readily。  Out of an upper window Du Chayla and his 

men lowered themselves into the garden by means of knotted sheets; 

some escaped across the river under the bullets of the insurgents; 

but the archpriest himself fell; broke his thigh; and could only 

crawl into the hedge。  What were his reflections as this second 

martyrdom drew near?  A poor; brave; besotted; hateful man; who had 

done his duty resolutely according to his light both in the 

Cevennes and China。  He found at least one telling word to say in 

his defence; for when the roof fell in and the upbursting flames 

discovered his retreat; and they came and dragged him to the public 

place of the town; raging and calling him damned … 'If I be 

damned;' said he; 'why should you also damn yourselves?'



Here was a good reason for the last; but in the course of his 

inspectorship he had given many stronger which all told in a 

contrary direction; and these he was now to hear。  One by one; 

Seguier first; the Camisards drew near and stabbed him。  'This;' 

they said; 'is for my father broken on the wheel。  This for my 

brother in the galleys。  That for my mother or my sister imprisoned 

in your cursed convents。'  Each gave his blow and his reason; and 

then all kneeled and sang psalms around the body till the dawn。  

With the dawn; still singing; they defiled away towards Frugeres; 

farther up the Tarn; to pursue the work of vengeance; leaving Du 

Chayla's prison…house in ruins; and his body pierced with two…and…

fifty wounds upon the public place。



'Tis a wild night's work; with its accompaniment of psalms; and it 

seems as if a psalm must always have a sound of threatening in that 

town upon the Tarn。  But the story does not end; even so far as 

concerns Pont de Montvert; with the departure of the Camisards。  

The career of Seguier was brief and bloody。  Two more priests and a 

whole family at Ladeveze; from the father to the servants; fell by 

his hand or by his orders; and yet he was but a day or two at 

large; and restrained all the time by the presence of the soldiery。  

Taken at length by a famous soldier of fortune; Captain Poul; he 

appeared unmoved before his judges。



'Your name?' they asked。



'Pierre Seguier。'



'Why are you called Spirit?'



'Because the Spirit of the Lord is with me。'



'Your domicile?'



'Lately in the desert; and soon in heaven。'



'Have you no remorse for your crimes?'



'I have committed none。  MY SOUL IS LIKE A GARDEN FULL OF SHELTER 

AND OF FOUNTAINS。'



At Pont de Montvert; on the 12th of August; he had his right hand 

stricken from his body; and was burned alive。  And his soul was 

like a garden?  So perhaps was the soul of Du Chayla; the Christian 

martyr。  And perhaps if you could read in my soul; or I could read 

in yours; our own composure might seem little less surprising。



Du Chayla's house still stands; with a new roof; beside one of the 

bridges of the town; and if you are curious you may see the 

terrace…garden into which he dropped。







IN THE VALLEY OF THE TARN







A NEW road leads from Pont de Montvert to Florac by the valley of 

the Tarn; a smooth sandy ledge; it runs about half…way between the 

summit of the cliffs and the river in the bottom of the valley; and 

I went in and out; as I followed it; from bays of shadow into 

promontories of afternoon sun。  This was a pass like that of 

Killiecrankie; a deep turning gully in the hills; with the Tarn 

making a wonderful hoarse uproar far below; and craggy summits 

standing in the sunshine high above。  A thin fringe of ash…trees 

ran about the hill…tops; like ivy on a ruin; but on the lower 

slopes; and far up every glen; the Spanish chestnut…trees stood 

each four…square to heaven under its tented foliage。  Some were 

planted; each on its own terrace no larger than a bed; some; 

trusting in their roots; found strength to grow and prosper and be 

straight and large upon the rapid slopes of the valley; others; 

where there was a margin to the river; stood marshalled in a line 

and mighty like cedars of Lebanon。  Yet even where they grew most 

thickly they were not to be thought of as a wood; but as a herd of 

stalwart individuals; and the dome of each tree stood forth 

separate and large; and as it were a little hill; from among the 

domes of its companions。  They gave forth a faint sweet perfume 

which pervaded the air of the afternoon; autumn had put tints of 

gold and tarnish in the green; and the sun so shone through and 

kindled the broad foliage; that each chestnut was relieved against 

another; not in shadow; but in light。  A humble sketcher here laid 

down his pencil in despair。



I wish I could convey a notion of the growth of these noble trees; 

of how they strike out boughs like the oak; and trail sprays of 

drooping foliage like the willow; of how they stand on upright 

fluted columns like the pillars of a church; or like the olive; 

from the most shattered bole can put out smooth and youthful 

shoots; and begin a new life upon the ruins of the old。  Thus they 

partake of the nature of many different trees; and even their 

prickly top…knots; seen near at hand against the sky; have a 

certain palm…like air that impresses the imagination。  But their 

individuality; although compounded of so many elements; is but the 

richer and the more original。  And to look down upon a level filled 

with these knolls of foliage; or to see a clan of old unconquerable 

chestnuts cluster 'like herded elephants' upon the spur of a 

mountain; is to rise to higher thoughts of the powers that are in 

Nature。



Between Modestine's laggard humour and the beauty of the scene; we 

made little progress all that afternoon; and at last finding the 

sun; although still far from setting; was already beginning to 

desert the narrow valley of the Tarn; I began to cast about for a 

place to camp in。  This was not easy to find; the terraces were too 

narrow; and the ground; where it was unterraced; was usually too 

steep for a man to lie upon。  I should have slipped all night; and 

awakened towards morning with my feet or my head in the river。



After perhaps a mile; I saw; some sixty feet above the road; a 

little plateau large enough to hold my sack; and securely parapeted 

by the trunk of an aged and enormous chestnut。  Thither; with 

infinite trouble; I goaded and kicked the reluctant Modestine; and 

there I hastened to unload her。  There was only room for myself 

upon the plateau; and I had to go nearly as high again before I 

found so much as standing…room for the ass。  It was on a heap of 

rolling stones; on an artificial terrace; certainly not five feet 

square in all。  Here I tied her to a chestnut; and having given her 

corn and bread and made a pile of chestnut…leaves; of which I found 

her greedy; I descended once more to my own encampment。



The position was unpleasantly exposed。  One or two carts went by 

upon the road; and as long as daylight lasted I concealed myself; 

for al
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