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travels with a donkey in the cevennes-第11章

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attend; when they were to tell their beads or meditate; and when 

they were to rise and go to rest。  At the foot was a notable N。B。:  

'LE TEMPS LIBRE EST EMPLOYE A L'EXAMEN DE CONSCIENCE; A LA 

CONFESSION; A FAIRE DE BONNES RESOLUTIONS; ETC。'  To make good 

resolutions; indeed!  You might talk as fruitfully of making the 

hair grow on your head。



I had scarce explored my niche when Brother Ambrose returned。  An 

English boarder; it appeared; would like to speak with me。  I 

professed my willingness; and the friar ushered in a fresh; young; 

little Irishman of fifty; a deacon of the Church; arrayed in strict 

canonicals; and wearing on his head what; in default of knowledge; 

I can only call the ecclesiastical shako。  He had lived seven years 

in retreat at a convent of nuns in Belgium; and now five at Our 

Lady of the Snows; he never saw an English newspaper; he spoke 

French imperfectly; and had he spoken it like a native; there was 

not much chance of conversation where he dwelt。  With this; he was 

a man eminently sociable; greedy of news; and simple…minded like a 

child。  If I was pleased to have a guide about the monastery; he 

was no less delighted to see an English face and hear an English 

tongue。



He showed me his own room; where he passed his time among 

breviaries; Hebrew Bibles; and the Waverley Novels。  Thence he led 

me to the cloisters; into the chapter…house; through the vestry; 

where the brothers' gowns and broad straw hats were hanging up; 

each with his religious name upon a board … names full of legendary 

suavity and interest; such as Basil; Hilarion; Raphael; or 

Pacifique; into the library; where were all the works of Veuillot 

and Chateaubriand; and the ODES ET BALLADES; if you please; and 

even Moliere; to say nothing of innumerable fathers and a great 

variety of local and general historians。  Thence my good Irishman 

took me round the workshops; where brothers bake bread; and make 

cartwheels; and take photographs; where one superintends a 

collection of curiosities; and another a gallery of rabbits。  For 

in a Trappist monastery each monk has an occupation of his own 

choice; apart from his religious duties and the general labours of 

the house。  Each must sing in the choir; if he has a voice and ear; 

and join in the haymaking if he has a hand to stir; but in his 

private hours; although he must be occupied; he may be occupied on 

what he likes。  Thus I was told that one brother was engaged with 

literature; while Father Apollinaris busies himself in making 

roads; and the Abbot employs himself in binding books。  It is not 

so long since this Abbot was consecrated; by the way; and on that 

occasion; by a special grace; his mother was permitted to enter the 

chapel and witness the ceremony of consecration。  A proud day for 

her to have a son a mitred abbot; it makes you glad to think they 

let her in。



In all these journeyings to and fro; many silent fathers and 

brethren fell in our way。  Usually they paid no more regard to our 

passage than if we had been a cloud; but sometimes the good deacon 

had a permission to ask of them; and it was granted by a peculiar 

movement of the hands; almost like that of a dog's paws in 

swimming; or refused by the usual negative signs; and in either 

case with lowered eyelids and a certain air of contrition; as of a 

man who was steering very close to evil。



The monks; by special grace of their Abbot; were still taking two 

meals a day; but it was already time for their grand fast; which 

begins somewhere in September and lasts till Easter; and during 

which they eat but once in the twenty…four hours; and that at two 

in the afternoon; twelve hours after they have begun the toil and 

vigil of the day。  Their meals are scanty; but even of these they 

eat sparingly; and though each is allowed a small carafe of wine; 

many refrain from this indulgence。  Without doubt; the most of 

mankind grossly overeat themselves; our meals serve not only for 

support; but as a hearty and natural diversion from the labour of 

life。  Yet; though excess may be hurtful; I should have thought 

this Trappist regimen defective。  And I am astonished; as I look 

back; at the freshness of face and cheerfulness of manner of all 

whom I beheld。  A happier nor a healthier company I should scarce 

suppose that I have ever seen。  As a matter of fact; on this bleak 

upland; and with the incessant occupation of the monks; life is of 

an uncertain tenure; and death no infrequent visitor; at Our Lady 

of the Snows。  This; at least; was what was told me。  But if they 

die easily; they must live healthily in the meantime; for they 

seemed all firm of flesh and high in colour; and the only morbid 

sign that I could observe; an unusual brilliancy of eye; was one 

that served rather to increase the general impression of vivacity 

and strength。



Those with whom I spoke were singularly sweet…tempered; with what I 

can only call a holy cheerfulness in air and conversation。  There 

is a note; in the direction to visitors; telling them not to be 

offended at the curt speech of those who wait upon them; since it 

is proper to monks to speak little。  The note might have been 

spared; to a man the hospitallers were all brimming with innocent 

talk; and; in my experience of the monastery; it was easier to 

begin than to break off a conversation。  With the exception of 

Father Michael; who was a man of the world; they showed themselves 

full of kind and healthy interest in all sorts of subjects … in 

politics; in voyages; in my sleeping…sack … and not without a 

certain pleasure in the sound of their own voices。



As for those who are restricted to silence; I can only wonder how 

they bear their solemn and cheerless isolation。  And yet; apart 

from any view of mortification; I can see a certain policy; not 

only in the exclusion of women; but in this vow of silence。  I have 

had some experience of lay phalansteries; of an artistic; not to 

say a bacchanalian character; and seen more than one association 

easily formed and yet more easily dispersed。  With a Cistercian 

rule; perhaps they might have lasted longer。  In the neighbourhood 

of women it is but a touch…and…go association that can be formed 

among defenceless men; the stronger electricity is sure to triumph; 

the dreams of boyhood; the schemes of youth; are abandoned after an 

interview of ten minutes; and the arts and sciences; and 

professional male jollity; deserted at once for two sweet eyes and 

a caressing accent。  And next after this; the tongue is the great 

divider。



I am almost ashamed to pursue this worldly criticism of a religious 

rule; but there is yet another point in which the Trappist order 

appeals to me as a model of wisdom。  By two in the morning the 

clapper goes upon the bell; and so on; hour by hour; and sometimes 

quarter by quarter; till eight; the hour of rest; so 

infinitesimally is the day divided among different occupations。  

The man who keeps rabbits; for example; hurries from his hutches to 

the chapel; the chapter…room; or the refectory; all day long:  

every hour he has an office to sing; a duty to perform; from two; 

when he rises in the dark; till eight; when he returns to receive 

the comfortable gift of sleep; he is upon his feet and occupied 

with manifold and changing business。  I know many persons; worth 

several thousands in the year; who are not so fortunate in the 

disposal of their lives。  Into how many houses would not the note 

of the monastery bell; dividing the day into manageable portions; 

bring peace of mind and healthful activity of body!  We speak of 

hardships; but the true hardship is to be a dull fool; and 

permitted to mismanage life in our own dull and foolish manner。



From this point of view; we may perhaps better understand the 

monk's existence。  A long novitiate and every proof of constancy of 

mind and strength o
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