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turning a corner； fear took hold on me from head to foot … slavish；
superstitious fear； and though I did not stop in my advance； yet I
went on slowly； like a man who should have passed a bourne
unnoticed； and strayed into the country of the dead。 For there；
upon the narrow new…made road； between the stripling pines； was a
mediaeval friar； fighting with a barrowful of turfs。 Every Sunday
of my childhood I used to study the Hermits of Marco Sadeler …
enchanting prints； full of wood and field and mediaeval landscapes；
as large as a county； for the imagination to go a…travelling in；
and here； sure enough； was one of Marco Sadeler's heroes。 He was
robed in white like any spectre； and the hood falling back； in the
instancy of his contention with the barrow； disclosed a pate as
bald and yellow as a skull。 He might have been buried any time
these thousand years； and all the lively parts of him resolved into
earth and broken up with the farmer's harrow。
I was troubled besides in my mind as to etiquette。 Durst I address
a person who was under a vow of silence？ Clearly not。 But drawing
near； I doffed my cap to him with a far…away superstitious
reverence。 He nodded back； and cheerfully addressed me。 Was I
going to the monastery？ Who was I？ An Englishman？ Ah； an
Irishman； then？
'No；' I said； 'a Scotsman。'
A Scotsman？ Ah； he had never seen a Scotsman before。 And he
looked me all over； his good； honest； brawny countenance shining
with interest； as a boy might look upon a lion or an alligator。
From him I learned with disgust that I could not be received at Our
Lady of the Snows； I might get a meal； perhaps； but that was all。
And then； as our talk ran on； and it turned out that I was not a
pedlar； but a literary man； who drew landscapes and was going to
write a book； he changed his manner of thinking as to my reception
（for I fear they respect persons even in a Trappist monastery）； and
told me I must be sure to ask for the Father Prior； and state my
case to him in full。 On second thoughts he determined to go down
with me himself； he thought he could manage for me better。 Might
he say that I was a geographer？
No； I thought； in the interests of truth； he positively might not。
'Very well； then' （with disappointment）； 'an author。'
It appeared he had been in a seminary with six young Irishmen； all
priests long since； who had received newspapers and kept him
informed of the state of ecclesiastical affairs in England。 And he
asked me eagerly after Dr。 Pusey； for whose conversion the good man
had continued ever since to pray night and morning。
'I thought he was very near the truth；' he said； 'and he will reach
it yet； there is so much virtue in prayer。'
He must be a stiff； ungodly Protestant who can take anything but
pleasure in this kind and hopeful story。 While he was thus near
the subject； the good father asked me if I were a Christian； and
when he found I was not； or not after his way； he glossed it over
with great good…will。
The road which we were following； and which this stalwart father
had made with his own two hands within the space of a year； came to
a corner； and showed us some white buildings a little farther on
beyond the wood。 At the same time； the bell once more sounded
abroad。 We were hard upon the monastery。 Father Apollinaris （for
that was my companion's name） stopped me。
'I must not speak to you down there；' he said。 'Ask for the
Brother Porter； and all will be well。 But try to see me as you go
out again through the wood； where I may speak to you。 I am charmed
to have made your acquaintance。'
And then suddenly raising his arms； flapping his fingers； and
crying out twice； 'I must not speak； I must not speak！' he ran away
in front of me； and disappeared into the monastery door。
I own this somewhat ghastly eccentricity went a good way to revive
my terrors。 But where one was so good and simple； why should not
all be alike？ I took heart of grace； and went forward to the gate
as fast as Modestine； who seemed to have a disaffection for
monasteries； would permit。 It was the first door； in my
acquaintance of her； which she had not shown an indecent haste to
enter。 I summoned the place in form； though with a quaking heart。
Father Michael； the Father Hospitaller； and a pair of brown…robed
brothers came to the gate and spoke with me a while。 I think my
sack was the great attraction； it had already beguiled the heart of
poor Apollinaris； who had charged me on my life to show it to the
Father Prior； But whether it was my address； or the sack； or the
idea speedily published among that part of the brotherhood who
attend on strangers that I was not a pedlar after all； I found no
difficulty as to my reception。 Modestine was led away by a layman
to the stables； and I and my pack were received into Our Lady of
the Snows。
THE MONKS
FATHER MICHAEL； a pleasant； fresh…faced； smiling man； perhaps of
thirty…five； took me to the pantry； and gave me a glass of liqueur
to stay me until dinner。 We had some talk； or rather I should say
he listened to my prattle indulgently enough； but with an
abstracted air； like a spirit with a thing of clay。 And truly；
when I remember that I descanted principally on my appetite； and
that it must have been by that time more than eighteen hours since
Father Michael had so much as broken bread； I can well understand
that he would find an earthly savour in my conversation。 But his
manner； though superior； was exquisitely gracious； and I find I
have a lurking curiosity as to Father Michael's past。
The whet administered； I was left alone for a little in the
monastery garden。 This is no more than the main court； laid out in
sandy paths and beds of parti…coloured dahlias； and with a fountain
and a black statue of the Virgin in the centre。 The buildings
stand around it four…square； bleak； as yet unseasoned by the years
and weather； and with no other features than a belfry and a pair of
slated gables。 Brothers in white； brothers in brown； passed
silently along the sanded alleys； and when I first came out； three
hooded monks were kneeling on the terrace at their prayers。 A
naked hill commands the monastery upon one side； and the wood
commands it on the other。 It lies exposed to wind； the snow falls
off and on from October to May； and sometimes lies six weeks on
end； but if they stood in Eden； with a climate like heaven's； the
buildings themselves would offer the same wintry and cheerless
aspect； and for my part； on this wild September day； before I was
called to dinner； I felt chilly in and out。
When I had eaten well and heartily； Brother Ambrose； a hearty
conversible Frenchman （for all those who wait on strangers have the
liberty to speak）； led me to a little room in that part of the
building which is set apart for MM。 LES RETRAITANTS。 It was clean
and whitewashed； and furnished with strict necessaries； a crucifix；
a bust of the late Pope； the IMITATION in French； a book of
religious meditations； and the LIFE OF ELIZABETH SETON； evangelist；
it would appear； of North America and of New England in particular。
As far as my experience goes； there is a fair field for some more
evangelisation in these quarters； but think of Cotton Mather！ I
should like to give him a reading of this little work in heaven；
where I hope he dwells； but perhaps he knows all that already； and
much more； and perhaps he and Mrs。 Seton are the dearest friends；
and gladly unite their voices in the everlasting psalm。 Over the
table； to conclude the inventory of the room； hung a set of
regulations for MM。 LES RETRAITANTS： what services they should
attend； when they were to tell their beads or meditate； and when
they were to rise and go to rest。 At the foot was a notable N。B。：
'