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oasting in the ashes； or a whiff from the coffee…pot； just about to topple over on the burning sticks。 The fire is made of driftwood washed down possibly from some storm…swept region where a Mormon dwells with his numerous family； or； mayhap； from a forest where the elk of Wyoming still roam。
How real life in this Canyon now begins to be。 It is opening up its secrets to us as we thus come into it。 We are learning to love it； therefore it shows its heart to us。 It no longer is a 〃thing〃 to be looked at； it is a real something； an individuality to love； to listen to； to question； to honor。
On the Tonto Trail。 We are now ready to go over the old Tonto Trail the trail made centuries ago by mountain sheep； small bands of which are still to be found in the remoter corners of the Canyonthen followed by the Indians； whose moccasined feet made less impression upon it than did the hoofs of the sheep。 And in the two or three decades just passed； a few white men trod it。 Perhaps Powell； or some of his men； or Stanton； walked where we now walk； or ride； and surely some of those early mining prospectors of the CanyonAshurst； McClure； Marshall； Hance； Boucher； Berry； Brashear；once went this way。
In and out of the recesses of the much carved walls； up and down the wavy ridges of the plateaus； sometimes descending into deep side gorges； we ride； our guide leading the way to the Grand View Trail； and our pack…mules and burros following； while we occupy the rear of the procession。 We stop for noon lunch in one of the side canyons where is a spring of clear water。 We take off the packs from the animals； and let them nibble away at the rich grama and gallinas grasses that flourish here after the summer rains。
Comfortable and contented after our meal； we lie on our backs under the shelter of a juniper or a friendly cottonwood； or in the shade of an immense block fallen from some cracked wall above。 Already we are becoming familiar with the strata； and can call each one by name。 The red wall limestone； we find； is known to the guides and miners as the 〃blue lime；〃 owing to the fact that its capping stratum； where exposed； has a light blue color。
Cottonwood Creek and Horseshoe Mesa。 In due time we reach Cottonwood Creek； which flows down to the left （west） of Grand View Point。 Here the plateau opens out； but we leave it in order to follow the creek； on the Berry Trail down to the river。 Perhaps we spend the night here； and in the morning ascend to the mesa on to the Tonto； then up the well…engineered trail to Grand View Cave （see description in chapter on Grand View Trail）。 Sending the pack animals on from here； we wait until some one descends from the near…by Horseshoe Mesa； where the camp of the Canyon Copper Company is located； with candles ready to conduct us through the wonders of this natural excavation in the red…wall limestone。 This occupies the whole of our afternoon； so that when we reach the mesa； we are ready to partake of the substantial and cheery fare of the Camp； and then unroll our blankets； lie down； listen to the chat of the miners and guide； hear them recount some of their thrilling and exciting experiences； enjoy their singing of old…time melodies； with a peculiar western flavor to them； and then roll over to dreamless sleep。
Copper Mines。 Half a day can be well spent on the morrow in the mines； and one is surprised to find here over half a mile of tunnels and shafts； with workings on seven levels； and ore so rich that under usual conditions it pays to mine； sort； pack on mules three miles or a little more to the rim； place in wagons； haul some fifteen or twenty miles to Apex； load on railway cars and shippaying full freight； of courseabout six hundred and eighty miles to El Paso； Texas； where it is 〃milled；〃 and the copper； silver and gold extracted。 These various processes are expensive。 It costs to buy grain in Flagstaff； or Phoenix； and pay freight on it to Apex； and then haul it to the head of the trail； and thence to the stables on the plateau near the mine。 Hay； too； has to come just as far。 Every pound of the provisions used by the men has to be hauled in similar fashion over railroad； wagon road and canyon trail。 Every pick； shovel； piece of iron or woodwork； every pound of powder； dynamite and fuse； every box of candles has to pay toll in like fashion； before it can be used in the mine。 So we are not surprised to learn that the ore is rich； the first thousand tons mined going as high as thirty percent in copper； with several ounces of silver to the ton； and small but appreciable and valuable traces of gold。 （At the time of this writing； the mines are temporarily shut down。）
To the Old Hance Trail。 The mouth of the mine enters the face of the cliff to the east； and overlooks the trail down which we descend into Hance Creek； where the old Hance Trail to the river used to be。 It is an old friend； for we have been down it more times than once； and can recall every feature。 We rest awhile here； in order to go down to the place where the side canyon through which the creek flows 〃narrows up。〃 We pass through； and on the other side stand before the shattered Tonto sandstones that Thomas Moran； years ago； named the Temple of Set； and even further on； where we used to leave the horses and climb down a boulder； and up the face of the cliff； and down the rope ladder over the archaean rockshere a crystalline mica schistand so on； all the way to the river。 So another day passes； and we stretch out our blankets； and sleep on the very ledge on which we bunked years and years ago； when we made our first descent and camp in this canyon。
Red Canyon Trail。 The next day we are ready to continue on to the west。 We climb out of Hance Canyon； and cross the ridge into Mineral Canyon； ascend again； cross another ridge； and find ourselves in that wonderland of the geologist； the Red Canyon Trail。
What do I mean by the Wonderland of the Geologist？ Ask of these tilted strata of red rock； that give the canyon its name； that the men wise in rocks call the non…conformable Algonkian strata！ Ask of the folds； or； flexures； in the strata； which the untrained eye can readily discern！
The Algonkian。 This is one of the spots that all geologistsfrom every part of the civilized worldaim for。 They know it is one of the rare things of the known world； and they come here to see it。 So make yourself as wise as you can while you are here and have the chance。 Read Dr。 Walcott's monograph from the fourteenth report of the United States Geological Survey； Volume No。 2； entitled 〃Pre…Cambrian Igneous Rocks of the Unkar Terrane。〃 Then read Major Powell's luminous earlier descriptions of these rocks in his 〃Explorations of the Colorado River of the West。〃 Learn from their own words what these geological masters say of these wonderful five hundred feet thick remnants of twelve thousand feet of strata that were once piled here above the archaean rocks。 Imagine over two miles of strata thrust up into the air； and then pay strict attention as the scientists reason out their conclusions as to the how； why； where； and whence of the eleven thousand five hundred feet of washed away strata。
Asbestos Mines。 If your guide knows how to compass it； cross the river here at the foot of the Red Canyon Trail； and visit the asbestos mines of the Hance Asbestos Mining Company of New York。 Try to comprehend what asbestos is； how it is formed。 See where it is located in these much burnt and much twisted strata。
If possible； go up and down the river； and see where the Inner Gorgethe granite or gneissreally begins。 It is not so very far away。
Then； when you are ready； watch the guide adjust the much…lightened pack； for the supply of 〃grub〃 is getting low； perhaps assist him swing the packs on the packsaddle； put on the canvas covering and throw the 〃diamond hitch；〃 and then saddle your own horsefor by now you will have begun to feel some confidence and pride in doing things that the 〃tenderfoot〃 generally leaves to the guideand soon you are climbing up the trail on your way to the rim。 As soon as you are on 〃top；〃 you 〃push on〃 the pack animals and 〃hit the trail hard〃 by way of Hance's Ranch； now owned by Martin Buggel； to Grand View； and over the familiar roa