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hard〃 by way of Hance's Ranch； now owned by Martin Buggel； to Grand View； and over the familiar road back to El Tovar。
Eastern Points。 Or； before returning； one day or several more days can be spent in visiting the salient promontoriesMoran； Zuni； Papago； Pinal and Lipan Pointsand then descending the most eastern trail of the Grand Canyon； known as the Tanner…French Trail。
Imagine the gain after such a trip。 Count up the store of knowledge acquired； the health； vim； vigor added to one's store； the capacity for energetic life developed； the experiences accumulated； the hardships laughed at and overcome； and then tell me whether any similar outlay of cash elsewhere can produce equal benefits in results。
This is but one of many such trips which I will now briefly and succinctly name； each one of which is different from every other one。
To Havasu Canyon。 One； two； or three weeks （or more） can profitably be spent in going westward （twenty…five miles） over the Topocobya Road to the head of the Topocobya Trail into Havasu （Cataract） Canyon。 This is a drive of forty miles。 Camp over night there； and then descend in the cool of the morning down either arm of this stupendous cliff （see chapter on Havasu Canyon） to Topocobya Spring； and on down the wash into Havasu Canyon； fifteen miles or so to the Havasupai village。
Camp near； or in； one of the fields of the Indians； where good alfalfa can be purchased for the animals and fresh vegetables and fruit （in season） for one's own use。 If you are not too squeamish to see aboriginal man in his primitive dirt； study him in his home。 Try to learn to look at things from his standpoint。 If possible； witness one of his dancesa religious ceremonyand arrange to enter his primitive toholwoh or sweat…house； where he will give you a most effective and powerful Russo…Turkish bath。 Swim in Havasu Creek to your heart's content； several times a day。 Climb to the old fort； where the Havasupais used to retire to defend themselves when pressed too closely by their hereditary foes； the Apaches。 Listen to the stones； the legends； the myths about the stone figures your eye cannot fail to see soon after you reach the village； which command the widest part of the Canyon； where the Indians live； and which are called by them Hue…puk…eh…eh and Hue…gli…i…wa。 Get one of the storytellers to recite to you the deeds of Tochopa； their good god； and Hokomata； their bad god； and ask them for the wonderfully fascinating legend of the mother of their tribethe daughter of Tochopa； from whom the whole human race descended。 Ask one of the old men to tell you the stories of some of their conflicts with the Apaches； and why Tochopa placed the Hue…gli…i…wa in so prominent and salient a position。 If you desire something of a different nature； engage some of the younger men to get up a horse race。 The wise and judicious expenditure of a few dollars will generally produce the desired effect。
Then； when you are ready to travel again； get a Havasupai to guide youno one else canup to the fascinating spring called Pack…a…tha…true…ye…ba； or to some of their side canyons where cliff…dwellings； corn…storage houses and pictographs abound。
Bridal Veil Falls。 On your return； descend to Bridal Veil Falls； and see where a capitalist spent many thousands of dollars in unnecessary work because he had been deluded into the belief that platinum existed here。 Then forget men and their mad search for gold； and stand reverent before a secret shrine of beauty incomparablethis exquisite fall in its majestic setting。 A day or more can be well spent here； and yet not exhaust the delight of this one fall。 There are four ways of approach to it from the village above。 Go over them all； as each has its own peculiar charm。 Then strike off down the Canyon to Mooney Falls； and hear the story； as you cross and recross Havasu Creek； of the poor miner who was killed here and from whom the fall obtains its name。 And finally； follow the winding of the pellucid stream until it is ejected through a narrow passageway into the turbulent Colorado。
Cushing's Story of the Havasupais。 On returning from the Havasupai village； come out by the Wallapai Trail or ascend the steep cleft of the Hopi Trail。 Both ought to be seen and gone over； in order to know something of the engineering skill of these Blue Water Indians。 And if you can get hold of it； read Frank Hamilton Cushing's delightful account （in Volume 50 of the Atlantic Monthly） of his trip from Zuni and down the Hopi Trail to the village you have just left。 Also； if you care to read more ancient history still； get Lieutenant Ives's fascinating report of his trip into this Canyon （published by the War Department） and； even earlier still； the diary of Padre Garces （see chapter on Garces）； the man who camped with the ancestors of these hospitable Indians； while Jefferson； Adams； Washington and Hancock were defying the British and preparing to launch the Declaration of Independence。
To Powell Plateau and Point Sublime。 Another two or three weeks' delightful experience can be gained by arranging to go down Bass's Trail； cross on his cable ferry； go up the Shinumo Trail to Powell Plateau； watch the herds of protected and preserved deer and antelope； look longingly upon the succulent and delicious pine…hens that live upon pinion nuts and roost in the branches of the pine trees of the Kaibab forest； and pleasantly saunter along out to Point Sublime。 The guide will point out to youor he is no guidethe spot where in 1873 Thomas Moran sat with Major Powell； and afterwards painted the memorable canvas of the Grand Canyon which now hangs in the Capitol at Washington。 Sleep out on Point Sublime and remember Dutton； whose beautifully polished descriptions of the Canyon； written here； have thrilled thousands of civilized and cultured people。 Then push on west to the Greenland Spring； over Walhalla Plateau to Naji Point； whence you can look down into Chuar Creek； where Dr。 Walcott； with three Mormons； spent a snowy winter studying the Algonkian strata。
An Adventurous Trip。 Or； better still； if you are ready for whatever adventure may befall on a seldom used trail； descend Dr。 Walcott's old trail to the river； and there build a raft （it is perfectly feasible and not too dangerous； unless the river be at the flood） and cross to the other side； letting your horses swim over。 Then come out by way of the Tanner Trail； after riding up and down the wide beach and sandy stretches of this part of the Canyon as far north and east as the Little Colorado。
Indeed you may walk up the boxed…in canyon of this side gorgewhere few white men have trodon your return。
Qver the Desert to Hopiland。 A fascinating trip； not however connected with the Canyon； is suggested in the chapter on 〃An Historical Trail across the Grand Canyon Country。〃 Arrange to go in mid…August； even though it be hot weather； if you have grown a little toughened； for then you will reach Hopiland at the time of the Snake Dance； which thrilling ceremony I have briefly； but truthfully； described in a special chapter。
Many such trips can be planned for those who really wish them； and he who is wise enough to take them will probably improve in health； gain a wonderful knowledge of one of the most fascinating regions of the earth； and fill the memory with treasures that nothing can destroy。
CHAPTER VIII。 From El Tovar Down The Bright Angel Trail
The Start。 Leaving El Tovar promptly at 8：30 A。 M。； fortified with a good breakfast； and suitably clothed； the trail party in a few minutes reaches the head of Bright Angel Trail near Bright Angel Camp。 For three…quarters of a mile this trail descends； zigzagging back and forth until the top of the cross…bedded sandstone is reached。
Faulting in the Sandstones。 Here the visitor should not fail to observe the faulting in the sandstone； there being a difference in the two sides of about two hundred feet。 Without this fault there would have been no trail； for to the lifting up； or dropping down of the strata； is due their shattered condition； which alone makes trail…building possible。 When about a mile down； the separation line between the cross…bedded sandstone and the upper red sandstone is clearly revealed to th