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the grand canyon of arizona-第12章

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ner and prospector; who; in the early eighties; made this basin his home while engaged in prospecting operations in the Canyon。

As the plateau passes across the basin and out to the open Canyon; the scene becomes more and more enlarged; until it is stupendous and vast beyond description。 Down on the right; Hermit Creek cuts its narrow path deeper and deeper; until it reaches the red…wall limestone; where it makes a narrow gorge; that; from the elevation of the plateau; seems more like a mere slit in the rock than a gorge。 Louis Boucher assures me that it is so narrow and deep that he has seen stars from its recesses at midday; and I record his statement in spite of the fact that eminent astronomers have told me that such a sight is impossible。 Anyhow; the effect of that stupendous descent is such as to almost make the rider on the trail see stars; though there is no danger to any one with ordinarily steady nerves。 Two miles out; one sees the continuation of one arm of the Bright Angel fault in the shattered strata of the red sandstone; some masses of which are toppled over at the base of Pima Point。 It was this fault that made the talus slopes; down which the Boucher Trail descends; and also the great eroded recess of Hermit Basin。

Columbus Point。 The nose of the plateau on which we have been traveling; now directly under Yuma Point; is named Columbus Point; and from this spot; where several noted American painters have made paintings destined to become memorable; the outlook in three directions; east; west; and north; forms one of the noblest of all the panoramas of the Canyon my eye has ever rested upon。 Shiva's Temple is almost directly opposite; as we look towards the northeast。 Stretches of the river are exposed east and west; where raging rapids send up their roar to us。 Overhead is a great castellated structure; surmounted by a lesser building; with a round tower; embattlements and all the architectural accompaniments of an elaborately equipped castle of ancient Europe。 An attempt to describe all the objects seen in the heart of the Canyon is needless。 Suffice it to say that the panorama takes in every tower; temple; butte and structure; seen from Point Sublime on the north side; or any of the points on the south side; from Havasupai Point on the east; to Yavapai Point on the west; and includes Wotan's Throne; Vishnu Temple; and the wall of the Little Colorado to the faraway east。

On the Lower Trail to the River。 The trail then winds under Yuma Point; and zigzags down the thinner strata of the red sandstones on to the red…wall limestones; where it affords more extended views on a lower plateau of lesser area; the rocky butte on the end of which is named Bunker Hill Monument。 From this plateau another rapid descent is made through masses of rock to the bed of Long (or Boucher) Creek; where; at the distance of about a mile from the river; is located the lower camp。 Here Boucher has planted a garden of all kinds of vegetables; and with seventy…five trees; which include oranges; figs; peaches; pears; apricots; apples; nectarines; and pomegranates; he boasts of his melons; canteloupes; beets; onions; tomatoes; chile; carrots; cucumbers; parsnips; etc。; and I can vouch for the sweet and refreshing qualities of his melons。 Tomatoes; ripe and green; covered his vines in January; and he has them throughout the year。 It needs no comment to explain how delightful fresh vegetables are; after one has made this trail trip; especially if it should be in the hot summer months。

Good and comfortable beds and other camp accommodations are provided here; so that a stop may be made over night。 In the morning; the river is visited; and the return trip accomplished in easy time for dinner。 The distance from rim to river has not been measured; but it is estimated to be from eight to ten miles。

Boucher also has a copper mine; rich in mineral。 He claims that it is a continuation of the copper ledge of Bass's mine; and is possibly the same deposit that continues east to the Canyon Copper Company's mine on the Berry Trail。

The return trip can be made over various routes; including the ascent of Bass or Bright Angel Trails; but a majority of visitors will wish to return by way of Hermit Trail; across Hermit Basin from Boucher Trail。 In that way they will get the experience of using two trails with their different outlooks and a journey across the plateau down in the Canyon; as well as a drive back to El Tovar on Hermit Rim Road。



CHAPTER VII。 How Fully To See And Know The Grand Canyon Region

Advantages of Camping Trips。 The suggestions in this chapter are mainly for the strenuous and strong; though this by no means excludes members of the gentle sex。 Many women and girlssome who have never before been on horsebackhave made these extended trips; even those that have required weeks of rough camping。 For detailed particulars of the scenery; those interested are referred to the various chapters devoted to the respective trails。 The transportation department at El Tovar is under the control of competent men; and is thoroughly well equipped to send visitors on prolonged camping trips with everything needed for a week; a month; or six months。 It is merely a question of time and meeting the necessary expense。 On the occasion of my last visit to El Tovar; a small party of both sexes was equipped and started out for a trip to last fully three weeks。 Reference to the chapter entitled 〃Across the Grand Canyon to Point Sublime;〃 mainly written as her diary by an elderly lady; will give the ideas of a woman who had next to no previous experience of the hardships; as well as the immediate enjoyments of such a trip。 But no one can estimate the continual source of delight and pleasure the memories of such a trip are to those who have resolutely faced and overcome the merely temporary discomforts entailed。 The experiences with the burros; the surprises of the scenery; the exquisite delight of the perfect rest and dreamless sleep one enjoys; after the first few nights of novelty are worn off; the satisfaction of seeing and knowing much of the most sublime piece of natural scenery on earth; are compensations and satisfactions enough。

Down Bright Angel Trail。 After one has gained the slight knowledge of the Canyon afforded by the easier trips described; let him plan to make the following as 〃a starter〃 in his more thorough investigation。 With a good guide; pack animals carrying a full equipment of sleeping; cooking and eating necessities; plenty of water in canteens; one or two extra canvasses in case of rain; a note…book; and pencils or fountain pen; a compass and barometer for altitude readings; and the United States Geological Survey maps of the region; one is ready to make a 〃good start。〃 Descend the Bright Angel Trail to the river; study the formations all the way down; get a clear idea of the relative positions of the strata; and learn to detect them by the individualistic appearances of wall; temple; butte; etc。; and examine the so…called cliff…dwellings hidden away in the Tonto sandstones before descending on the gneiss into Pipe Creek Canyon。 Arrived at the river; spend a day there investigating the peculiar foldings and tiltings of the Algonkian strata。 Sleep; as did Powell and his men for weeks; on the sands of the Colorado River; with the noise of the rapids ever in your ears。 Breathe the pure air; and watch the solemn march of the stars。

Have you ever noticed how delicious the most ordinary food is; when cooked and eaten in the open air; after a day of reasonable exertion? Climbing; riding; and walking expand the lungs; and this means the absorption of immeasurably more oxygen。 Weak stomachs; fickle appetites; dyspeptic symptoms; insomnia; blue devils and a score of the ills that human flesh is heir to; disappear before the floods of sunshine and oxygen that bathe the body; inside and out; of the man or woman who gladly accepts the outdoor life; even though only for a short time; in this Canyon region。

These philosophizings are aroused by the smell of bacon frying over the camp…fire; or the crack of a fine; mealy Arizona potato; roasting in the ashes; or a whiff from the coffee…pot; just about to topple over on the burning stick
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