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the Grand Duchess Xenia； at Peterhof。 It was very brilliant； and
was conducted after the usual Russian fashion； its most curious
features being the leading of the couple about the altar and
their drinking out of the same cup。
Coming from the ceremony in the chapel； we of the diplomatic
corps found ourselves； at the foot of the great staircase； in a
crush。 But just at the side was a large door of plate…glass
opening upon an outer gallery communicating with other parts of
the palace； and standing guard at this door was one of the
〃Nubians〃 whom I had noticed； from time to time； at the Winter
Palacean enormous creature； very black； very glossy； with the
most brilliant costume possible。 I had heard much of these
〃Nubians；〃 and had been given to understand that they had been
brought from Central Africa by special command。 At great
assemblages in the imperial palaces； just before the doors were
flung open for the entrance of the Majesties and their cortege；
two great black hands were always to be seen put through the
doors； ready to open them in an instantthe hands of two of
these 〃Nubians。〃 I had built up in my mind quite a structure of
romance regarding them； and now found myself in the crush at the
foot of the grand staircase near one of them。 As I looked up at
him he said to me； with deferential compassion； 〃If you please；
sah； would n't you like to git out of de crowd； sah； through dis
yere doah？〃 By his dialect he was evidently one of my own
compatriots； and； though in a sort of daze at this discovery； I
mechanically accepted his invitation； whereupon he opened the
door； let us through； and kept back the crowd。
Splendid； too； in its way； was the funeral of the Grand Duchess
Catherine at the Fortress Church。 It was very impressive； almost
as much so as the funeral of the Emperor Nicholas； which I had
attended at the same place nearly forty years before。 The Emperor
Alexander III； with his brothers； had followed the hearse and
coffin on foot； and his Majesty was evidently greatly fatigued。
Soon he retired to take rest； and then it was that we began to
have the first suspicion of his fatal illness。 Up to that time
there had been skepticism。 Very few had thought it possible that
a man of such giant frame and strength could be seriously ill；
but now there could be no doubt of it。 Standing near him； I
noticed his pallor and evident fatigue； and was not surprised
that he twice left the place； in order； evidently； to secure
rest。 There was need of it。 In the Russian Church the rule is
that all must stand； and all of us stood from about ten in the
morning until half…past one in the afternoon； but two high
officials covered with gold lace and orders； bearing tapers by
the side of the grand duchess's coffin； toppled over from
exhaustion and were removed。
As to other spectacles； one of the most splendid was the midnight
mass on Easter eve。 At my former visit I had seen this at the
Kazan Church； now we went to the Cathedral of St。 Isaac。 The
ceremony was brilliant almost beyond conception； as in the old
days； the music was heavenly； and； as the clocks struck twelve；
the cannons of the fortress of Peter and Paul boomed forth； all
the bells of the city began chiming； and a light； appearing at
the extreme end of the church； seemed to run in all directions
through the vast assemblage； and presently all seemed ablaze。
Every person in the church was holding a taper； and within a few
moments all of these had been lighted。
Most beautiful of all was the music at another of these Easter
ceremonies； when the choristers； robed in white； came forth from
the sanctuary and sang hymns by the side of the empty sepulcher
under the dome。
The singing by the choirs in Russia is； in many respects； more
beautiful than similar music in any other part of the world； save
that of the cathedral choir of Berlin at its best。 I have heard
the Sistine； Pauline； and Lateran choirs at Rome； and they are
certainly far inferior to these Russian singers。 No instrumental
music is allowed and no voices of women。 The choristers are men
and boys。 There are several fine choirs in St。 Petersburg； but
three are famous： that of the Emperor at the Winter Palace
Chapel； that of the Archbishop at the Cathedral of St。 Isaac； and
that of the Nevski Monastery。 Occasionally there were concerts
when all were combined； and nothing in its way could be more
perfect。
Operatic music also receives careful attention。 Enormous
subsidies are given to secure the principal singers of Europe at
the Italian； French； and German theaters； but the most lavish
outlay is upon the national opera： it is considered a matter of
patriotism to maintain it at the highest point possible。 The
Russian Opera House is an enormous structure； and the finest
piece which I saw given there was Glinka's 〃Life for the Czar。〃
Being written by a Russian； on a patriotic subject； and from an
ultra…loyal point of view； everything had been done to mount it
in the most superb way possible： never have I seen more wonderful
scenic effects； the whole culminating in the return of one of the
old fighting czars to the Kremlin after his struggle with the
Poles。 The stage was enormous and the procession magnificent。 The
personages in it were the counterparts； as regarded dress； of the
persons they represented； exact copies having been made of the
robes and ornaments of the old Muscovite boyards； as preserved in
the Kremlin Museum； and at the close of this procession came a
long line of horses； in the most superb trappings imaginable；
attended by guards and outriders in liveries of barbaric
splendor； and finally the imperial coach。 We were enabled to
catch sight of the Cossack guards on the front of it； when； just
as the body of the coach was coming into view； down came the
curtain。 This was the result of a curious prohibition； enforced
in all theaters in Russia： on no account is it permitted to
represent the sacred person of any emperor upon the stage。
As to other music； very good concerts were occasionally given；
the musicians being generally from Western Europe。
Very pleasant were sundry excursions； especially during the long
summer twilight； and among these were serenade parties given by
various members of the diplomatic corps。 In a trim steam…yacht；
and carrying singers with us； we sailed among the islands in the
midnight hours； stopping； from time to time； to greet friends
occupying cottages there。
As to excursions in the empire； I have already given； in my
chapter on Tolstoi； some account of my second visit to Moscow；
and a more complete account is reserved for a chapter on 〃Sundry
Excursions and Experiences。〃 The same may be said； also；
regarding an excursion taken； during one of my vacations； in
Sweden； Norway； and Denmark。
In 1893； a new administration having brought into power the party
opposed to my own； I tendered to President Cleveland my
resignation； and； in the full expectation that it would be
accepted； gave up my apartment； but as； instead of an acceptance；
there came a very kind indication of the President's confidence；
good…will； and preference for my continuance at my post； I
remained in the service a year longer； occupying my odds and ends
of time in finishing my book。 Then； feeling the need of going
elsewhere to revise it； I wrote the President； thanking him for
his confidence and kindness； but making my resignati