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latter； on this occasion； from the Empress down； wore these
costumes： there was great variety in these； but their main
features were the kakoshniks； or ornamental crowns； and the
tunics in bright colors。
The next of these great ceremonies at the Winter Palace was the
blessing of the waters upon the 8th of January。 The diplomatic
corps and other guests were allowed to take their places at the
palace windows looking out over the Neva； and thence could see
the entire procession； which； having gone down the ambassadors'
staircase； appeared at a temple which had been erected over an
opening in the ice of the river。 The Emperor； the grand dukes；
and the Archbishop of St。 Petersburg； with his suffragan bishops；
all took part in this ceremonial； and the music； which was
selected from the anthems of Bortniansky； was very solemn and
impressive。
During the winter came court balls； and； above all； the 〃palm
balls。〃 The latter were； in point of brilliancy； probably beyond
anything in any court of modern times。 After a reception； during
which the Emperor and Empress passed along the diplomatic circle；
speaking to the various members； dancing began； and was continued
until about midnight； then the doors were flung open into other
vast halls； which had been changed into palm…groves。 The palms
for this purpose are very large and beautiful； four series of
them being kept in the conservatories for this special purpose；
each series being used one winter and then allowed to rest for
three winters before it is brought out again。 Under these palms
the supper…tables are placed； and from fifteen hundred to two
thousand people sit at these as the guests of the Czar and
Czarina。 These entertainments seem carried to the extreme of
luxury； their only defect being their splendid monotony： only
civil； military； and diplomatic officials are present； and a
new…comer finds much difficulty in remembering their names。 There
are said to be four hundred Princes Galitzin in the empire； and I
personally knew three Counts Tolstoi who did not know each other；
but the great drawback is the fact that all these entertainments
are exactly alike； always the same thing： merely civil and
military functionaries and their families； and for strangers no
occupation save to dance； play cards； talk futilities； or simply
stare。
The Berlin court； though by no means so brilliant at first sight
and far smaller；since the most I ever saw in any gathering in
the Imperial Schloss at the German capital was about fifteen
hundred；was really much more attractive； its greater interest
arising from the presence of persons distinguished in every
field。 While at St。 Petersburg one meets only civil and military
functionaries； at Berlin one meets not only these； but the most
prominent men in politics； science； literature； art； and the
higher ranges of agriculture； commerce； and manufacture。 At St。
Petersburg； when I wished to meet such men； who added to the
peaceful glories of the empire； I went to their houses in the
university quarter； at Berlin I met them also at court。
As to court episodes during my stay； one especially dwells in my
memory。 On arriving rather early one evening； I noticed a large；
portly man； wearing the broad red ribbon of the Legion of Honor；
and at once saw that he could be no other than Prince Victor
Napoleon； the Bonaparte heir to the crown of France。 Though he
was far larger than the great Napoleon； and had the eyes of his
mother； Princess Clothilde； his likeness to his father； Prince
Napoleon （〃Plon…Plon〃）； whom I had seen years before at Paris；
was very marked。 Presently his brother； who had just arrived from
his regiment in the Caucasus； came up and began conversation with
him。 Both seemed greatly vexed at something。 On the arrival of
the Italian ambassador； he naturally went up and spoke to the
prince； who was the grandson of King Victor Emmanuel； but the
curious thing was that the French ambassador； Count de
Montebello； and the prince absolutely cut each other。 Neither
seemed to have the remotest idea that the other was in the room；
and this in spite of the fact that the Montebellos are descended
from Jean Lannes； the stable…boy whom Napoleon made a marshal of
France and Duke of Montebello； thus founding the family to which
the French ambassador belonged。 The show of coolness on the part
of the imperial family evidently vexed the French pretender。 He
was； indeed； allowed to enter the room behind the imperial train；
but he was not permitted to sit at the imperial table； being
relegated to a distant and very modest seat。 I was informed that；
though the Emperor could； and did； have the prince to dine with
him in private； he felt obliged； in view of the relations between
Russia and the French Republic； to carefully avoid any special
recognition of him in public。
A far more brilliant visitor was the Ameer of Bokhara。 I have
already spoken of the way in which he was placed upon the throne
by General Annenkof。 He now came to visit the Czar as his
suzerain； and with him came his eldest son and a number of his
great men。 The satrap himself was a singular combination of
splendor and stoicism； wearing a gorgeous dress covered with
enormous jewels； and observing the brilliant scenes about him
with hardly ever a word。 Even when he took his place at the table
beside the Empress he was very uncommunicative。 Facing the
imperial table sat his great men； and their embarrassment was
evident； one special source of it being clearly their small
acquaintance with European table utensils。 The Ameer brought to
St。 Petersburg splendid presents of gold and jewels； after the
Oriental fashion； and also the heir to his throne； whom he left
as a sort of hostage to be educated at the capital。
An eminent Russian who was in very close relations with the Ameer
gave me some account of this young man。 Although he was then
perhaps fourteen or fifteen years of age； he was； as regards
conduct； a mere baby； bursting out into loud boohooing the first
time he was presented to the Emperor； and showing himself very
immature in various ways。 Curiously enough； when he was taken to
the cadet school he was found to be unable to walk for any
considerable distance。 He had always been made to squat and be
carried； and the first thing to be done toward making him a
Russian officer was to train him in using his legs。 He took an
especial fancy to bicycles： in the park attached to the cadet
school he became very proficient in the use of them； and；
returning to Bokhara at his first vacation； he took with him； not
only a bicycle for himself； but another for his brother。 Shortly
after his home…coming； the Ameer and court being assembled； he
gave a display of his powers； but； to his great mortification；
the Ameer was disgusted： the idea that the heir to the throne
should be seen working his way in this fashion was contrary to
all the ideas of that potentate； and he ordered the bicycles to
be at once destroyed。 But on the young man's return to St。
Petersburg he bought another； resumed his exercises upon it； and
will； no doubt； when he comes to the throne； introduce that form
of locomotion into the Mohammedan regions of Northern Asia。
Among the greater displays of my final year were a wedding and a
funeral。 The former was that of the Emperor's eldest daughter；
the Grand Duchess Xenia； at Peterhof。 It was very brilliant； and
was conducted after the usua