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in this venerable city has a decidedly Spanish stamp。 It lies too much
out of the frequented track of foreign travel to have its old usages
trampled out。 Here I observed old men still wearing the montero； or
ancient hunting cap； once common throughout Spain； while the young men
wore the little round…crowned hat； with brim turned up all round； like
a cup turned down in its saucer； while the brim was set off with
little black tufts like cockades。 The women； too； were all in
mantillas and basquinas。 The fashions of Paris had not reached
Antiquera。
Pursuing our course through a spacious street； we put up at the
posada of San Fernando。 As Antiquera； though a considerable city；
is； as I observed； somewhat out of the track of travel； I had
anticipated bad quarters and poor fare at the inn。 I was agreeably
disappointed； therefore； by a supper table amply supplied； and what
were still more acceptable； good clean rooms and comfortable beds。 Our
man； Sancho； felt himself as well off as his namesake； when he had the
run of the duke's kitchen； and let me know； as I retired for the
night； that it had been a proud time for the alforjas。
Early in the morning （May 4th） I strolled to the ruins of the old
Moorish castle； which itself had been reared on the ruins of a Roman
fortress。 Here； taking my seat on the remains of a crumbling tower；
I enjoyed a grand and varied landscape； beautiful in itself； and
full of storied and romantic associations； for I was now in the very
heart of the country famous for the chivalrous contests between Moor
and Christian。 Below me； in its lap of hills； lay the old warrior city
so often mentioned in chronicle and ballad。 Out of yon gate and down
yon hill paraded the band of Spanish cavaliers； of highest rank and
bravest bearing； to make that foray during the war and conquest of
Granada； which ended in the lamentable massacre among the mountains of
Malaga； and laid all Andalusia in mourning。 Beyond spread out the
vega； covered with gardens and orchards and fields of grain and
enamelled meadows； inferior only to the famous vega of Granada。 To the
right the Rock of the Lovers stretched like a cragged promontory
into the plain； whence the daughter of the Moorish alcayde and her
lover； when closely pursued； threw themselves in despair。
The matin peal from church and convent below me rang sweetly in
the morning air； as I descended。 The market…place was beginning to
throng with the populace； who traffic in the abundant produce of the
vega； for this is the mart of an agricultural region。 In the
market…place were abundance of freshly plucked roses for sale； for not
a dame or damsel of Andalusia thinks her gala dress complete without a
rose shining like a gem among her raven tresses。
On returning to the inn I found our man Sancho； in high gossip
with the landlord and two or three of his hangers…on。 He had just been
telling some marvellous story about Seville； which mine host seemed
piqued to match with one equally marvellous about Antiquera。 There was
once a fountain； he said； in one of the public squares called IL
fuente del toro； the fountain of the bull； because the water gushed
from the mouth of a bull's head； carved of stone。 Underneath the
head was inscribed：
EN FRENTE DEL TORO
SE HALLEN TESORO。
（In front of the bull there is treasure。） Many digged in front of
the fountain； but lost their labor and found no money。 At last one
knowing fellow construed the motto a different way。 It is in the
forehead （frente） of the bull that the treasure is to be found； said
he to himself； and I am the man to find it。 Accordingly he came late
at night； with a mallet； and knocked the head to pieces； and what do
you think he found？
〃Plenty of gold and diamonds！〃 cried Sancho eagerly。
〃He found nothing；〃 rejoined mine host dryly； 〃and he ruined the
fountain。〃
Here a great laugh was set up by the landlord's hangers…on； who
considered Sancho completely taken in by what I presume was one of
mine host's standing jokes。
Leaving Antiquera at eight O'clock； we had a delightful ride along
the little river； and by gardens and orchards； fragrant with the odors
of spring and vocal with the nightingale。 Our road passed round the
Rock of the Lovers （el Penon de los Enamorados）； which rose in a
precipice above us。 In the course of the morning we passed through
Archidona； situated in the breast of a high hill； with a three…pointed
mountain towering above it； and the ruins of a Moorish fortress。 It
was a great toil to ascend a steep stony street leading up into the
city； although it bore the encouraging name of Calle Real del Llano
（the Royal Street of the Plain）； but it was still a greater toil to
descend from this mountain city on the other side。
At noon we halted in sight of Archidona； in a pleasant little meadow
among hills covered with olive…trees。 Our cloaks were spread on the
grass； under an elm by the side of a bubbling rivulet； our horses were
tethered where they might crop the herbage； and Sancho was told to
produce his alforjas。 He had been unusually silent this morning ever
since the laugh raised at his expense； but now his countenance
brightened； and he produced his alforjas with an air of triumph。
They contained the contributions of four days' journeying； but had
been signally enriched by the foraging of the previous evening in
the plenteous inn at Antiquera； and this seemed to furnish him with
a set…off to the banter of mine host。
EN FRENTE DEL TORO
SE HALLEN TESORO
would he exclaim； with a chuckling laugh； as he drew forth the
heterogeneous contents one by one； in a series which seemed to have no
end。 First came forth a shoulder of roasted kid； very little the worse
for wear； then an entire partridge； then a great morsel of salted
codfish wrapped in paper； then the residue of a ham； then the half
of a pullet； together with several rolls of bread； and a rabble rout
of oranges； figs； raisins； and walnuts。 His bota also had been
recruited with some excellent wine of Malaga。 At every fresh
apparition from his larder； he would enjoy our ludicrous surprise；
throwing himself back on the grass； shouting with laughter； and
exclaiming 〃Frente del toro！… frente del toro！ Ah； senores； they
thought Sancho a simpleton at Antiquera； but Sancho knew where to find
the tesoro。〃
While we were diverting ourselves with his simple drollery； a
solitary beggar approached； who had almost the look of a pilgrim。 He
had a venerable gray beard； and was evidently very old； supporting
himself on a staff； yet age had not bowed him down； he was tall and
erect； and had the wreck of a fine form。 He wore a round Andalusian
hat； a sheep…skin jacket； and leathern breeches； gaiters； and sandals。
His dress； though old and patched； was decent； his demeanor manly； and
he addressed us with the grave courtesy that is to be remarked in
the lowest Spaniard。 We were in a favorable mood for such a visitor；
and in a freak of capricious charity gave him some silver； a loaf of
fine wheaten bread； and a goblet of our choice wine of Malaga。 He
received them thankfully； but without any grovelling tribute of
gratitude。 Tasting the wine； he held it up to the light； with a slight
beam of surprise in his eye； then quaffing it off at a draught； 〃It is
many years；〃 said he； 〃since I have tasted such wine。 It is a
cordial to an old man's heart。〃 Then； looking at the beautiful wheaten
loaf； 〃Bendito sea tal pan！〃 〃Blessed be such bread！〃 So saying； he
put it in his wallet。 We urged him to eat it on the spot。 〃No；
senores；〃 replied he； 〃the wine I had either to drink or leave； but
the bread I may take home to share with my family。〃
Our man Sancho sought our eye； and reading permission there； gave
the old man some of the ample fragments of our repast； on condition；
however； that he should sit down and make a meal。
He