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While we were supping with our Drawcansir friend； we heard the notes
of a guitar； and the click of castanets； and presently a chorus of
voices singing a popular air。 In fact mine host had gathered
together the amateur singers and musicians； and the rustic belles of
the neighborhood； and； on going forth； the courtyard or patio of the
inn presented a scene of true Spanish festivity。 We took our seats
with mine host and hostess and the commander of the patrol； under an
archway opening into the court； the guitar passed from hand to hand；
but a jovial shoemaker was the Orpheus of the place。 He was a
pleasant…looking fellow； with huge black whiskers； his sleeves were
rolled up to his elbows。 He touched the guitar with masterly skill；
and sang a little amorous ditty with an expressive leer at the
women； with whom he was evidently a favorite。 He afterwards danced a
fandango with a buxom Andalusian damsel； to the great delight of the
spectators。 But none of the females present could compare with mine
host's pretty daughter； Pepita； who had slipped away and made her
toilette for the occasion； and had covered her head with roses； and
who distinguished herself in a bolero with a handsome young dragoon。
We ordered our host to let wine and refreshment circulate freely among
the company； yet； though there was a motley assembly of soldiers；
muleteers； and villagers； no one exceeded the bounds of sober
enjoyment。 The scene was a study for a painter： the picturesque
group of dancers； the troopers in their half military dresses； the
peasantry wrapped in their brown cloaks； nor must I omit to mention
the old meagre Alguazil； in a short black cloak； who took no notice of
any thing going on； but sat in a corner diligently writing by the
dim light of a huge copper lamp； that might have figured in the days
of Don Quixote。
The following morning was bright and balmy； as a May morning ought
to be； according to the poets。 Leaving Arahal at seven o'clock； with
all the posada at the door to cheer us off we pursued our way
through a fertile country； covered with grain and beautifully verdant；
but which in summer； when the harvest is over and the fields parched
and brown； must be monotonous and lonely； for； as in our ride of
yesterday； there were neither houses nor people to be seen。 The latter
all congregate in villages and strong…holds among the hills； as if
these fertile plains were still subject to the ravages of the Moor。
At noon we came to where there was a group of trees； beside a
brook in a rich meadow。 Here we alighted to make our midday meal。 It
was really a luxurious spot； among wild flowers and aromatic herbs；
with birds singing around us。 Knowing the scanty larders of Spanish
inns； and the houseless tracts we might have to traverse； we had taken
care to have the alforjas of our squire well stocked with cold
provisions； and his bota； or leathern bottle； which might hold a
gallon； filled to the neck with choice Valdepenas wine。* As we
depended more upon these for our well…being than even his trabuco；
we exhorted him to be more attentive in keeping them well charged； and
I must do him the justice to say that his namesake； the
trencher…loving Sancho Panza； was never a more provident purveyor。
Though the alforjas and the bota were frequently and vigorously
assailed throughout the journey； they had a wonderful power of
repletion； our vigilant squire sacking every thing that remained
from our repasts at the inns； to supply these junketings by the
road…side； which were his delight。
* It may be as well to note here； that the alforjas are square
pockets at each end of a long cloth about a foot and a half wide；
formed by turning up its extremities。 The cloth is then thrown over
the saddle； and the pockets hang on each side like saddle…bags。 It
is an Arab invention。 The bota is a leathern bag or bottle； of
portly dimensions； with a narrow neck。 It is also oriental。 Hence
the scriptural caution； which perplexed me in my boyhood； not to put
new wine into old bottles。
On the present occasion he spread quite a sumptuous variety of
remnants on the green…sward before us； graced with an excellent ham
brought from Seville； then； taking his seat at a little distance； he
solaced himself with what remained in the alforjas。 A visit or two
to the bota made him as merry and chirruping as a grasshopper filled
with dew。 On my comparing his contents of the alforjas to Sancho's
skimming of the flesh…pots at the wedding of Camacho； I found he was
well versed in the history of Don Quixote； but； like many of the
common people of Spain； firmly believed it to be a true history。
〃All that happened a long time ago； senor；〃 said he； with an
inquiring look。
〃A very long time；〃 I replied。
〃I dare say more than a thousand years〃… still looking dubiously。
〃I dare say not less。〃
The squire was satisfied。 Nothing pleased the simple…hearted
varlet more than my comparing him to the renowned Sancho for
devotion to the trencher； and he called himself by no other name
throughout the journey。
Our repast being finished； we spread our cloaks on the green…sward
under the tree； and took a luxurious siesta in the Spanish fashion。
The clouding up of the weather； however； warned us to depart； and a
harsh wind sprang up from the southeast。 Towards five o'clock we
arrived at Osuna； a town of fifteen thousand inhabitants； situated
on the side of a hill； with a church and a ruined castle。 The posada
was outside of the walls； it had a cheerless look。 The evening being
cold； the inhabitants were crowded round a brasero in a chimney
corner； and the hostess was a dry old woman； who looked like a
mummy。 Every one eyed us askance as we entered； as Spaniards are apt
to regard strangers； a cheery； respectful salutation on our part；
caballeroing them and touching our sombreros； set Spanish pride at
ease； and when we took our seat among them； lit our cigars； and passed
the cigar…box round among them； our victory was complete。 I have never
known a Spaniard； whatever his rank or condition； who would suffer
himself to be outdone in courtesy； and to the common Spaniard the
present of a cigar （puro） is irresistible。 Care； however； must be
taken never to offer him a present with an air of superiority and
condescension； he is too much of a caballero to receive favors at
the cost of his dignity。
Leaving Osuna at an early hour the next morning； we entered the
sierra or range of mountains。 The road wound through picturesque
scenery； but lonely； and a cross here and there by the road side；
the sign of a murder； showed that we were now coming among the 〃robber
haunts。〃 This wild and intricate country； with its silent plains and
valleys intersected by mountains； has ever been famous for banditti。
It was here that Omar Ibn Hassan； a robber…chief among the Moslems；
held ruthless sway in the ninth century； disputing dominion even
with the caliphs of Cordova。 This too was a part of the regions so
often ravaged during the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella by Ali
Atar； the old Moorish alcayde of Loxa； father…in…law of Boabdil； so
that it was called Ali Atar's garden； and here 〃Jose Maria；〃 famous in
Spanish brigand story； had his favorite lurking places。
In the course of the day we passed through Fuente la Piedra near a
little salt lake of the same name； a beautiful sheet of water；
reflecting like a mirror the distant mountains。 We now came in sight
of Antiquera； that old city of warlike reputation； lying in the lap of
the great sierra which runs through Andalusia。 A noble vega spread out
before it； a picture of mild fertility set in a frame of rocky
mountains。 Crossing a gentle river we approached the city between
hedges and gardens； in which nightingales were pouring forth their
evening song。 About nightfall we arrived at the gates。 Every thing
in this venerable city has a decidedly Spanish stamp。 It lies too much
out of the frequented track of