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the old man some of the ample fragments of our repast； on condition；
however； that he should sit down and make a meal。
He accordingly took his seat at some little distance from us； and
began to eat slowly； and with a sobriety and decorum that would have
become a hidalgo。 There was altogether a measured manner and a quiet
self…possession about the old man； that made me think that he had seen
better days； his language too； though simple； had occasionally
something picturesque and almost poetical in the phraseology。 I set
him down for some broken…down cavalier。 I was mistaken； it was nothing
but the innate courtesy of a Spaniard； and the poetical turn of
thought and language often to be found in the lowest classes of this
clear…witted people。 For fifty years； he told us； he had been a
shepherd； but now he was out of employ and destitute。 〃When I was a
young man；〃 said he； 〃nothing could harm or trouble me； I was always
well； always gay； but now I am seventy…nine years of age； and a
beggar； and my heart begins to fail me。〃
Still he was not a regular mendicant： it was not until recently that
want had driven him to this degradation； and he gave a touching
picture of the struggle between hunger and pride； when abject
destitution first came upon him。 He was returning from Malaga
without money； he had not tasted food for some time； and was
crossing one of the great plains of Spain； where there were but few
habitations。 When almost dead with hunger； he applied at the door of a
venta or country inn。 〃Perdon usted por Dios； hermano！〃 （〃Excuse us；
brother； for God's sake！〃） was the reply… the usual mode in Spain of
refusing a beggar。
〃I turned away；〃 said he； 〃with shame greater than my hunger； for my
heart was yet too proud。 I came to a river with high banks； and
deep； rapid current； and felt tempted to throw myself in： 'What should
such an old； worthless； wretched man as I live for？' But when I was on
the brink of the current； I thought on the blessed Virgin； and
turned away。 I travelled on until I saw a country…seat at a little
distance from the road； and entered the outer gate of the
court…yard。 The door was shut； but there were two young senoras at a
window。 I approached and begged。 'Perdon usted por Dios； hermano！'…
and the window closed。
〃I crept out of the court…yard； but hunger overcame me； and my heart
gave way： I thought my hour at hand； so I laid myself down at the
gate； commended myself to the Holy Virgin； and covered my head to die。
In a little while afterwards the master of the house came home。 Seeing
me lying at his gate； he uncovered my head； had pity on my gray hairs；
took me into his house； and gave me food。 So； senores； you see that
one should always put confidence in the protection of the Virgin。〃
The old man was on his way to his native place； Archidona； which was
in full view on its steep and rugged mountain。 He pointed to the ruins
of its castle。 〃That castle；〃 he said； 〃was inhabited by a Moorish
king at the time of the wars of Granada。 Queen Isabella invaded it
with a great army； but the king looked down from his castle among
the clouds； and laughed her to scorn！ Upon this the Virgin appeared to
the queen； and guided her and her army up a mysterious path in the
mountains； which had never before been known。 When the Moor saw her
coming； he was astonished； and springing with his horse from a
precipice； was dashed to pieces！ The marks of his horse's hoofs；〃 said
the old man； 〃are to be seen in the margin of the rock to this day。
And see； senores； yonder is the road by which the queen and her army
mounted： you see it like a ribbon up the mountain's side； but the
miracle is； that； though it can be seen at a distance； when you come
near it disappears！〃
The ideal road to which he pointed was undoubtedly a sandy ravine of
the mountain； which looked narrow and defined at a distance； but
became broad and indistinct on an approach。
As the old man's heart warmed with wine and wassail； he went on to
tell us a story of the buried treasure left under the castle by the
Moorish king。 His own house was next to the foundations of the castle。
The curate and notary dreamed three times of the treasure； and went to
work at the place pointed out in their dreams。 His own son…in…law
heard the sound of their pickaxes and spades at night。 What they found
nobody knows； they became suddenly rich； but kept their own secret。
Thus the old man had once been next door to fortune； but was doomed
never to get under the same roof。
I have remarked that the stories of treasure buried by the Moors； so
popular throughout Spain； are most current among the poorest people。
Kind nature consoles with shadows for the lack of substantials。 The
thirsty man dreams of fountains and running streams； the hungry man of
banquets； and the poor man of heaps of hidden gold： nothing
certainly is more opulent than the imagination of a beggar。
Our afternoon's ride took us through a steep and rugged defile of
the mountains； called Puerto del Rey； the Pass of the King； being
one of the great passes into the territories of Granada； and the one
by which King Ferdinand conducted his army。 Towards sunset the road；
winding round a hill； brought us in sight of the famous little
frontier city of Loxa； which repulsed Ferdinand from its walls。 Its
Arabic name implies 〃guardian；〃 and such it was to the vega of
Granada； being one of its advanced guards。 It was the strong…hold of
that fiery veteran； old Ali Atar； father…in…law of Boabdil； and here
it was that the latter collected his troops； and sallied forth on that
disastrous foray which ended in the death of the old alcayde and his
own captivity。 From its commanding position at the gate； as it were；
of this mountain pass； Loxa has not unaptly been termed the key of
Granada。 It is wildly picturesque； built along the face of an arid
mountain。 The ruins of a Moorish alcazar or citadel crown a rocky
mound which rises out of the centre of the town。 The river Xenil
washes its base； winding among rocks； and groves； and gardens； and
meadows； and crossed by a Moorish bridge。 Above the city all is savage
and sterile； below is the richest vegetation and the freshest verdure。
A similar contrast is presented by the river； above the bridge it is
placid and grassy； reflecting groves and gardens； below it is rapid；
noisy and tumultuous。 The Sierra Nevada； the royal mountains of
Granada； crowned with perpetual snow； form the distant boundary to
this varied landscape； one of the most characteristic of romantic
Spain。
Alighting at the entrance of the city； we gave our horses to
Sancho to lead them to the inn； while we strolled about to enjoy the
singular beauty of the environs。 As we crossed the bridge to a fine
alameda； or public walk； the bells tolled the hour of oration。 At
the sound the wayfarers； whether on business or pleasure； paused； took
off their hats； crossed themselves； and repeated their evening prayer…
a pious custom still rigidly observed in retired parts of Spain。
Altogether it was a solemn and beautiful evening scene； and we
wandered on as the evening gradually closed； and the new moon began to
glitter between the high elms of the alameda。
We were roused from this quiet state of enjoyment by the voice of
our trusty squire hailing us from a distance。 He came up to us； out of
breath。 〃Ah； senores；〃 cried he； 〃el pobre Sancho no es nada sin Don
Quixote。〃 （〃Ah； senores； poor Sancho is nothing without Don Quixote。〃）
He had been alarmed at our not coming to the inn； Loxa was such a wild
mountain place； full of contrabandistas； enchanters； and infiernos； he
did not well know what might have happened； and set out to seek us；
inquiring after us of every person he met； until he traced us across
the bridge； and； to his great joy； caught sight of us strolling in the
alameda。
The inn to which he conducted us was called the Corona； or Crown；
and we found it quite in keeping