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you dip up a gallon of water； you will get about fifteen thousand of
these。 They give to the water a sort of grayish…white appearance。 Then
there is a fly； which looks something like our house fly。 These settle
on the beach to eat the worms that wash ashoreand any time； you can see
there a belt of flies an inch deep and six feet wide； and this belt
extends clear around the lakea belt of flies one hundred miles long。
If you throw a stone among them； they swarm up so thick that they look
dense； like a cloud。 You can hold them under water as long as you
pleasethey do not mind itthey are only proud of it。 When you let
them go； they pop up to the surface as dry as a patent office report； and
walk off as unconcernedly as if they had been educated especially with a
view to affording instructive entertainment to man in that particular
way。 Providence leaves nothing to go by chance。 All things have their
uses and their part and proper place in Nature's economy： the ducks eat
the fliesthe flies eat the wormsthe Indians eat all threethe wild
cats eat the Indiansthe white folks eat the wild catsand thus all
things are lovely。
Mono Lake is a hundred miles in a straight line from the oceanand
between it and the ocean are one or two ranges of mountainsyet
thousands of sea…gulls go there every season to lay their eggs and rear
their young。 One would as soon expect to find sea…gulls in Kansas。
And in this connection let us observe another instance of Nature's
wisdom。 The islands in the lake being merely huge masses of lava； coated
over with ashes and pumice…stone； and utterly innocent of vegetation or
anything that would burn； and sea…gull's eggs being entirely useless to
anybody unless they be cooked； Nature has provided an unfailing spring of
boiling water on the largest island； and you can put your eggs in there；
and in four minutes you can boil them as hard as any statement I have
made during the past fifteen years。 Within ten feet of the boiling
spring is a spring of pure cold water； sweet and wholesome。
So； in that island you get your board and washing free of chargeand if
nature had gone further and furnished a nice American hotel clerk who was
crusty and disobliging； and didn't know anything about the time tables；
or the railroad routesoranythingand was proud of itI would not
wish for a more desirable boarding…house。
Half a dozen little mountain brooks flow into Mono Lake； but not a stream
of any kind flows out of it。 It neither rises nor falls； apparently； and
what it does with its surplus water is a dark and bloody mystery。
There are only two seasons in the region round about Mono Lakeand these
are； the breaking up of one Winter and the beginning of the next。 More
than once （in Esmeralda） I have seen a perfectly blistering morning open
up with the thermometer at ninety degrees at eight o'clock； and seen the
snow fall fourteen inches deep and that same identical thermometer go
down to forty…four degrees under shelter； before nine o'clock at night。
Under favorable circumstances it snows at least once in every single
month in the year； in the little town of Mono。 So uncertain is the
climate in Summer that a lady who goes out visiting cannot hope to be
prepared for all emergencies unless she takes her fan under one arm and
her snow shoes under the other。 When they have a Fourth of July
procession it generally snows on them； and they do say that as a general
thing when a man calls for a brandy toddy there； the bar keeper chops it
off with a hatchet and wraps it up in a paper； like maple sugar。 And it
is further reported that the old soakers haven't any teethwore them out
eating gin cocktails and brandy punches。 I do not endorse that
statementI simply give it for what it is worthand it is worthwell；
I should say； millions； to any man who can believe it without straining
himself。 But I do endorse the snow on the Fourth of Julybecause I know
that to be true。
CHAPTER XXXIX。
About seven o'clock one blistering hot morningfor it was now dead
summer timeHigbie and I took the boat and started on a voyage of
discovery to the two islands。 We had often longed to do this； but had
been deterred by the fear of storms； for they were frequent； and severe
enough to capsize an ordinary row…boat like ours without great
difficultyand once capsized； death would ensue in spite of the bravest
swimming； for that venomous water would eat a man's eyes out like fire；
and burn him out inside； too； if he shipped a sea。 It was called twelve
miles； straight out to the islandsa long pull and a warm onebut the
morning was so quiet and sunny； and the lake so smooth and glassy and
dead； that we could not resist the temptation。 So we filled two large
tin canteens with water （since we were not acquainted with the locality
of the spring said to exist on the large island）； and started。 Higbie's
brawny muscles gave the boat good speed； but by the time we reached our
destination we judged that we had pulled nearer fifteen miles than
twelve。
We landed on the big island and went ashore。 We tried the water in the
canteens； now； and found that the sun had spoiled it； it was so brackish
that we could not drink it； so we poured it out and began a search for
the springfor thirst augments fast as soon as it is apparent that one
has no means at hand of quenching it。 The island was a long； moderately
high hill of ashesnothing but gray ashes and pumice…stone； in which we
sunk to our knees at every stepand all around the top was a forbidding
wall of scorched and blasted rocks。 When we reached the top and got
within the wall； we found simply a shallow； far…reaching basin； carpeted
with ashes； and here and there a patch of fine sand。 In places；
picturesque jets of steam shot up out of crevices； giving evidence that
although this ancient crater had gone out of active business； there was
still some fire left in its furnaces。 Close to one of these jets of
steam stood the only tree on the islanda small pine of most graceful
shape and most faultless symmetry； its color was a brilliant green； for
the steam drifted unceasingly through its branches and kept them always
moist。 It contrasted strangely enough； did this vigorous and beautiful
outcast； with its dead and dismal surroundings。 It was like a cheerful
spirit in a mourning household。
We hunted for the spring everywhere； traversing the full length of the
island （two or three miles）； and crossing it twiceclimbing ash…hills
patiently； and then sliding down the other side in a sitting posture；
plowing up smothering volumes of gray dust。 But we found nothing but
solitude； ashes and a heart…breaking silence。 Finally we noticed that
the wind had risen； and we forgot our thirst in a solicitude of greater
importance； for； the lake being quiet； we had not taken pains about
securing the boat。 We hurried back to a point overlooking our landing
place； and thenbut mere words cannot describe our dismaythe boat was
gone！ The chances were that there was not another boat on the entire
lake。 The situation was not comfortablein truth； to speak plainly； it
was frightful。 We were prisoners on a desolate island； in aggravating
proximity to friends who were for the present helpless to aid us； and
what was still more uncomfortable was the reflection that we had neither
food nor water。 But presently we sighted the boat。 It was drifting
along； leisurely； about fifty yards from shore； tossing in a foamy sea。
It drifted； and continued to drift； but at the same safe distance from
land； and we walked along abreast it and waited for fortune to favor us。
At the end of an hour it approached a jutting cape； and Higbie ran ahead
and posted himself on the utmost verge and prepared for the assault。 If
we failed there； there was no hope for us。 It was driving gradually
shoreward all the time； now； but whether it was driving fast enough to
make the connection or not was the momentous question。 When it got
within thirty steps of Higbie I was so excited that I fancied I could
hear my own heart beat。 When； a little later； it dragged slowly along
and seemed about to go by； only one little yard out of reach； it seemed