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a walk through moss and mire of sixteen hours。'
To go round the lights； even to…day； is to visit past centuries。 The tide
of tourists that flows yearly in Scotland； vulgarising all where it
approaches； is still defined by certain barriers。 It will be long ere there is
a hotel at Sumburgh or a hydropathic at Cape Wrath； it will be long ere
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any CHAR…A…BANC； laden with tourists； shall drive up to Barra Head or
Monach； the Island of the Monks。 They are farther from London than St。
Petersburg； and except for the towers； sounding and shining all night with
fog…bells and the radiance of the light…room； glittering by day with the
trivial brightness of white paint； these island and moorland stations seem
inaccessible to the civilisation of to…day； and even to the end of my
grandfather's career the isolation was far greater。 There ran no post at all
in the Long Island； from the light…house on Barra Head a boat must be sent
for letters as far as Tobermory； between sixty and seventy miles of open
sea； and the posts of Shetland； which had surprised Sir Walter Scott in
1814； were still unimproved in 1833； when my grandfather reported on the
subject。 The group contained at the time a population of 30；000 souls；
and enjoyed a trade which had increased in twenty years seven…fold； to
between three and four thousand tons。 Yet the mails were despatched and
received by chance coasting vessels at the rate of a penny a letter； six and
eight weeks often elapsed between opportunities； and when a mail was to
be made up； sometimes at a moment's notice； the bellman was sent hastily
through the streets of Lerwick。 Between Shetland and Orkney； only
seventy miles apart； there was ‘no trade communication whatever。'
Such was the state of affairs； only sixty years ago； with the three
largest clusters of the Scottish Archipelago； and forty…seven years earlier；
when Thomas Smith began his rounds； or forty…two； when Robert
Stevenson became conjoined with him in these excursions； the barbarism
was deep； the people sunk in superstition； the circumstances of their life
perhaps unique in history。 Lerwick and Kirkwall； like Guam or the Bay
of Islands； were but barbarous ports where whalers called to take up and to
return experienced seamen。 On the outlying islands the clergy lived
isolated； thinking other thoughts； dwelling in a different country from their
parishioners； like missionaries in the South Seas。 My grandfather's
unrivalled treasury of anecdote was never written down； it embellished his
talk while he yet was； and died with him when he died； and such as have
been preserved relate principally to the islands of Ronaldsay and Sanday；
two of the Orkney group。 These bordered on one of the water…highways
of civilisation； a great fleet passed annually in their view； and of the
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shipwrecks of the world they were the scene and cause of a proportion
wholly incommensurable to their size。 In one year； 1798； my grandfather
found the remains of no fewer than five vessels on the isle of Sanday；
which is scarcely twelve miles long。
‘Hardly a year passed；' he writes； ‘without instances of this kind； for；
owing to the projecting points of this strangely formed island； the lowness
and whiteness of its eastern shores； and the wonderful manner in which
the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes and pools of water； it
becomes； even in daylight； a deception； and has often been fatally
mistaken for an open sea。 It had even become proverbial with some of
the inhabitants to observe that 〃if wrecks were to happen； they might as
well be sent to the poor isle of Sanday as anywhere else。〃 On this and
the neighbouring islands the inhabitants had certainly had their share of
wrecked goods； for the eye is presented with these melancholy remains in
almost every form。 For example； although quarries are to be met with
generally in these islands； and the stones are very suitable for building
dykes （ANGLICE； walls）； yet instances occur of the land being enclosed；
even to a considerable extent； with ship…timbers。 The author has actually
seen a park （ANGLICE； meadow） paled round chiefly with cedar…wood
and mahogany from the wreck of a Honduras…built ship； and in one island；
after the wreck of a ship laden with wine； the inhabitants have been known
to take claret to their barley…meal porridge。 On complaining to one of the
pilots of the badness of his boat's sails； he replied to the author with some
degree of pleasantry； 〃Had it been His will that you came na' here wi' your
lights； we might 'a' had better sails to our boats； and more o' other things。〃
It may further be mentioned that when some of Lord Dundas's farms are to
be let in these islands a competition takes place for the lease； and it is
BONA FIDE understood that a much higher rent is paid than the lands
would otherwise give were it not for the chance of making considerably by
the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the shores of the
respective farms。'
The people of North Ronaldsay still spoke Norse； or； rather； mixed it
with their English。 The walls of their huts were built to a great thickness
of rounded stones from the sea…beach； the roof flagged； loaded with earth；
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and perforated by a single hole for the escape of smoke。 The grass grew
beautifully green on the flat house…top； where the family would assemble
with their dogs and cats； as on a pastoral lawn； there were no windows；
and in my grandfather's expression； ‘there was really no demonstration of
a house unless it were the diminutive door。' He once landed on
Ronaldsay with two friends。 The inhabitants crowded and pressed so
much upon the strangers that the bailiff； or resident factor of the island；
blew with his ox…horn； calling out to the natives to stand off and let the
gentlemen come forward to the laird； upon which one of the islanders； as
spokesman； called out； 〃God ha'e us； man！ thou needsna mak' sic a noise。
It's no' every day we ha'e THREE HATTED MEN on our isle。〃 ' When
the Surveyor of Taxes came （for the first time； perhaps） to Sanday； and
began in the King's name to complain of the unconscionable swarms of
dogs； and to menace the inhabitants with taxation； it chanced that my
grandfather and his friend； Dr。 Patrick Neill； were received by an old lady
in a Ronaldsay hut。 Her hut； which was similar to the model described；
stood on a Ness； or point of land jutting into the sea。 They were made
welcome in the firelit cellar； placed ‘in CASEY or straw…worked chairs；
after the Norwegian fashion； with arms； and a canopy overhead；' and given
milk in a wooden dish。 These hospitalities attended