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find my grandfather ‘hovering for a week' about the Pentland Skerries for
a chance to land； and it was almost always difficult。 Much knack and
enterprise were early developed among the seamen of the service； their
management of boats is to this day a matter of admiration； and I find my
grandfather in his diary depicting the nature of their excellence in one
happily descriptive phrase； when he remarks that Captain Soutar had
landed ‘the small stores and nine casks of oil WITH ALL THE ACTIVITY
OF A SMUGGLER。' And it was one thing to land； another to get on
board again。 I have here a passage from the diary； where it seems to have
been touch…and…go。 ‘I landed at Tarbetness； on the eastern side of the
point； in a MERE GALE OR BLAST OF WIND from west…south…west； at
2 p。m。 It blew so fresh that the captain； in a kind of despair； went off to
the ship； leaving myself and the steward ashore。 While I was in the light…
room； I felt it shaking and waving； not with the tremor of the Bell Rock；
but with the WAVING OF A TREE！ This the light…keepers seemed to be
quite familiar to； the principal keeper remarking that 〃it was very
pleasant；〃 perhaps meaning interesting or curious。 The captain worked
the vessel into smooth water with admirable dexterity； and I got on board
again about 6 p。m。 from the other side of the point。' But not even the
dexterity of Soutar could prevail always； and my grandfather must at times
have been left in strange berths and with but rude provision。 I may
instance the case of my father； who was storm…bound three days upon an
islet； sleeping in the uncemented and unchimneyed houses of the islanders；
and subsisting on a diet of nettle…soup and lobsters。
The name of Soutar has twice escaped my pen； and I feel I owe him a
vignette。 Soutar first attracted notice as mate of a praam at the Bell Rock；
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RECORDS OF A FAMILY OF ENGINEERS
and rose gradually to be captain of the REGENT。 He was active；
admirably skilled in his trade； and a man incapable of fear。 Once； in
London； he fell among a gang of confidence…men； naturally deceived by
his rusticity and his prodigious accent。 They plied him with drink … a
hopeless enterprise； for Soutar could not be made drunk； they proposed
cards； and Soutar would not play。 At last； one of them； regarding him
with a formidable countenance； inquired if he were not frightened？ ‘I'm
no' very easy fleyed；' replied the captain。 And the rooks withdrew after
some easier pigeon。 So many perils shared； and the partial familiarity of so
many voyages； had given this man a stronghold in my grandfather's
estimation； and there is no doubt but he had the art to court and please him
with much hypocritical skill。 He usually dined on Sundays in the cabin。
He used to come down daily after dinner for a glass of port or whisky；
often in his full rig of sou'…wester； oilskins； and long boots； and I have
often heard it described how insinuatingly he carried himself on these
appearances； artfully combining the extreme of deference with a blunt and
seamanlike demeanour。 My father and uncles； with the devilish
penetration of the boy； were far from being deceived； and my father；
indeed； was favoured with an object… lesson not to be mistaken。 He had
crept one rainy night into an apple…barrel on deck； and from this place of
ambush overheard Soutar and a comrade conversing in their oilskins。 The
smooth sycophant of the cabin had wholly disappeared； and the boy
listened with wonder to a vulgar and truculent ruffian。 Of Soutar； I may
say TANTUM VIDI； having met him in the Leith docks now more than
thirty years ago； when he abounded in the praises of my grandfather；
encouraged me （in the most admirable manner） to pursue his footprints；
and left impressed for ever on my memory the image of his own
Bardolphian nose。 He died not long after。
The engineer was not only exposed to the hazards of the sea； he must
often ford his way by land to remote and scarce accessible places； beyond
reach of the mail or the post… chaise； beyond even the tracery of the bridle…
path； and guided by natives across bog and heather。 Up to 1807 my
grand…father seems to have travelled much on horseback； but he then gave
up the idea … ‘such；' he writes with characteristic emphasis and capital
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RECORDS OF A FAMILY OF ENGINEERS
letters； ‘is the Plague of Baiting。' He was a good pedestrian； at the age of
fifty…eight I find him covering seventeen miles over the moors of the
Mackay country in less than seven hours； and that is not bad travelling for
a scramble。 The piece of country traversed was already a familiar track；
being that between Loch Eriboll and Cape Wrath； and I think I can scarce
do better than reproduce from the diary some traits of his first visit。 The
tender lay in Loch Eriboll； by five in the morning they sat down to
breakfast on board； by six they were ashore … my grandfather； Mr。 Slight
an assistant； and Soutar of the jolly nose； and had been taken in charge by
two young gentlemen of the neighbourhood and a pair of gillies。 About
noon they reached the Kyle of Durness and passed the ferry。 By half…past
three they were at Cape Wrath … not yet known by the emphatic
abbreviation of ‘The Cape' … and beheld upon all sides of them
unfrequented shores； an expanse of desert moor； and the high… piled
Western Ocean。 The site of the tower was chosen。 Perhaps it is by
inheritance of blood； but I know few things more inspiriting than this
location of a lighthouse in a designated space of heather and air； through
which the sea… birds are still flying。 By 9 p。m。 the return journey had
brought them again to the shores of the Kyle。 The night was dirty； and as
the sea was high and the ferry…boat small； Soutar and Mr。 Stevenson were
left on the far side； while the rest of the party embarked and were received
into the darkness。 They made； in fact； a safe though an alarming passage；
but the ferryman refused to repeat the adventure； and my grand…father and
the captain long paced the beach； impatient for their turn to pass； and
tormented with rising anxiety as to the fate of their companions。 At
length they sought the shelter of a shepherd's house。 ‘We had miserable
up…putting；' the diary continues； ‘and on both sides of the ferry much
anxiety of mind。 Our beds were clean straw； and but for the
circumstance of the boat； I should have slept as soundly as ever I did after
a walk through moss and mire of sixteen hours。'
To go round the lights； even to…day； is to