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last that my eyes rose above the summit。 A step that seemed no way
more decisive than many other steps that had preceded it … and；
'like stout Cortez when； with eagle eyes； he stared on the
Pacific；' I took possession； in my own name； of a new quarter of
the world。 For behold； instead of the gross turf rampart I had
been mounting for so long； a view into the hazy air of heaven； and
a land of intricate blue hills below my feet。
The Lozere lies nearly east and west； cutting Gevaudan into two
unequal parts； its highest point； this Pic de Finiels； on which I
was then standing； rises upwards of five thousand six hundred feet
above the sea； and in clear weather commands a view over all lower
Languedoc to the Mediterranean Sea。 I have spoken with people who
either pretended or believed that they had seen； from the Pie de
Finiels； white ships sailing by Montpellier and Cette。 Behind was
the upland northern country through which my way had lain； peopled
by a dull race； without wood； without much grandeur of hill…form；
and famous in the past for little beside wolves。 But in front of
me； half veiled in sunny haze； lay a new Gevaudan； rich；
picturesque； illustrious for stirring events。 Speaking largely； I
was in the Cevennes at Monastier； and during all my journey； but
there is a strict and local sense in which only this confused and
shaggy country at my feet has any title to the name； and in this
sense the peasantry employ the word。 These are the Cevennes with
an emphasis： the Cevennes of the Cevennes。 In that undecipherable
labyrinth of hills； a war of bandits； a war of wild beasts； raged
for two years between the Grand Monarch with all his troops and
marshals on the one hand； and a few thousand Protestant
mountaineers upon the other。 A hundred and eighty years ago； the
Camisards held a station even on the Lozere； where I stood； they
had an organisation； arsenals； a military and religious hierarchy；
their affairs were 'the discourse of every coffee…house' in London；
England sent fleets in their support； their leaders prophesied and
murdered； with colours and drums； and the singing of old French
psalms； their bands sometimes affronted daylight； marched before
walled cities； and dispersed the generals of the king； and
sometimes at night； or in masquerade； possessed themselves of
strong castles； and avenged treachery upon their allies and cruelty
upon their foes。 There； a hundred and eighty years ago； was the
chivalrous Roland； 'Count and Lord Roland； generalissimo of the
Protestants in France；' grave； silent； imperious； pock…marked ex…
dragoon； whom a lady followed in his wanderings out of love。 There
was Cavalier； a baker's apprentice with a genius for war； elected
brigadier of Camisards at seventeen； to die at fifty…five the
English governor of Jersey。 There again was Castanet； a partisan
leader in a voluminous peruke and with a taste for controversial
divinity。 Strange generals； who moved apart to take counsel with
the God of Hosts； and fled or offered battle； set sentinels or
slept in an unguarded camp； as the Spirit whispered to their
hearts！ And there； to follow these and other leaders； was the rank
and file of prophets and disciples； bold； patient； indefatigable；
hardy to run upon the mountains； cheering their rough life with
psalms； eager to fight； eager to pray； listening devoutly to the
oracles of brain…sick children； and mystically putting a grain of
wheat among the pewter balls with which they charged their muskets。
I had travelled hitherto through a dull district； and in the track
of nothing more notable than the child…eating beast of Gevaudan；
the Napoleon Bonaparte of wolves。 But now I was to go down into
the scene of a romantic chapter … or； better； a romantic footnote
in the history of the world。 What was left of all this bygone dust
and heroism？ I was told that Protestantism still survived in this
head seat of Protestant resistance； so much the priest himself had
told me in the monastery parlour。 But I had yet to learn if it
were a bare survival； or a lively and generous tradition。 Again；
if in the northern Cevennes the people are narrow in religious
judgments； and more filled with zeal than charity； what was I to
look for in this land of persecution and reprisal … in a land where
the tyranny of the Church produced the Camisard rebellion； and the
terror of the Camisards threw the Catholic peasantry into legalised
revolt upon the other side； so that Camisard and Florentin skulked
for each other's lives among the mountains？
Just on the brow of the hill； where I paused to look before me； the
series of stone pillars came abruptly to an end； and only a little
below； a sort of track appeared and began to go down a break…neck
slope； turning like a corkscrew as it went。 It led into a valley
between falling hills； stubbly with rocks like a reaped field of
corn； and floored farther down with green meadows。 I followed the
track with precipitation； the steepness of the slope； the continual
agile turning of the line of the descent； and the old unwearied
hope of finding something new in a new country； all conspired to
lend me wings。 Yet a little lower and a stream began； collecting
itself together out of many fountains； and soon making a glad noise
among the hills。 Sometimes it would cross the track in a bit of
waterfall； with a pool； in which Modestine refreshed her feet。
The whole descent is like a dream to me； so rapidly was it
accomplished。 I had scarcely left the summit ere the valley had
closed round my path； and the sun beat upon me； walking in a
stagnant lowland atmosphere。 The track became a road； and went up
and down in easy undulations。 I passed cabin after cabin； but all
seemed deserted； and I saw not a human creature； nor heard any
sound except that of the stream。 I was； however； in a different
country from the day before。 The stony skeleton of the world was
here vigorously displayed to sun and air。 The slopes were steep
and changeful。 Oak…trees clung along the hills； well grown；
wealthy in leaf； and touched by the autumn with strong and luminous
colours。 Here and there another stream would fall in from the
right or the left； down a gorge of snow…white and tumultuary
boulders。 The river in the bottom （for it was rapidly growing a
river； collecting on all hands as it trotted on its way） here
foamed a while in desperate rapids； and there lay in pools of the
most enchanting sea…green shot with watery browns。 As far as I
have gone； I have never seen a river of so changeful and delicate a
hue； crystal was not more clear； the meadows were not by half so
green； and at every pool I saw I felt a thrill of longing to be out
of these hot； dusty； and material garments； and bathe my naked body
in the mountain air and water。 All the time as I went on I never
forgot it was the Sabbath； the stillness was a perpetual reminder；
and I heard in spirit the church…bells clamouring all over Europe；
and the psalms of a thousand churches。
At length a human sound struck upon my ear … a cry strangely
modulated between pathos and derision； and looking across the
valley； I saw a little urchin sitting in a meadow； with his hands
about his knees； and dwarfed to almost comical smallness by the
distance。 But the rogue had picked me out as I went down the road；
from oak wood on to oak wood； driving Modestine； and he made me the
compliments of the new country in this tremulous high…pitched
salutation。 And as all noises are lovely and natural at a
sufficient distance； this also； coming through so much clean hill
air and crossing all the green valley； sounded pleasant to my ear；
and seemed a thing rustic； like the oaks or the river。
A little after； the stream that I was following fell into the Tarn
at Pont de Montvert of bloody memory。