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could see Modestine walking round and round at the length of her
tether； I could hear her steadily munching at the sward； but there
was not another sound； save the indescribable quiet talk of the
runnel over the stones。 I lay lazily smoking and studying the
colour of the sky； as we call the void of space； from where it
showed a reddish grey behind the pines to where it showed a glossy
blue…black between the stars。 As if to be more like a pedlar； I
wear a silver ring。 This I could see faintly shining as I raised
or lowered the cigarette； and at each whiff the inside of my hand
was illuminated； and became for a second the highest light in the
landscape。
A faint wind； more like a moving coolness than a stream of air；
passed down the glade from time to time； so that even in my great
chamber the air was being renewed all night long。 I thought with
horror of the inn at Chasserades and the congregated nightcaps；
with horror of the nocturnal prowesses of clerks and students； of
hot theatres and pass…keys and close rooms。 I have not often
enjoyed a more serene possession of myself； nor felt more
independent of material aids。 The outer world； from which we cower
into our houses； seemed after all a gentle habitable place； and
night after night a man's bed； it seemed； was laid and waiting for
him in the fields； where God keeps an open house。 I thought I had
rediscovered one of those truths which are revealed to savages and
hid from political economists： at the least； I had discovered a
new pleasure for myself。 And yet even while I was exulting in my
solitude I became aware of a strange lack。 I wished a companion to
lie near me in the starlight； silent and not moving； but ever
within touch。 For there is a fellowship more quiet even than
solitude； and which； rightly understood； is solitude made perfect。
And to live out of doors with the woman a man loves is of all lives
the most complete and free。
As I thus lay； between content and longing； a faint noise stole
towards me through the pines。 I thought； at first； it was the
crowing of cocks or the barking of dogs at some very distant farm；
but steadily and gradually it took articulate shape in my ears；
until I became aware that a passenger was going by upon the high…
road in the valley； and singing loudly as he went。 There was more
of good…will than grace in his performance； but he trolled with
ample lungs； and the sound of his voice took hold upon the hillside
and set the air shaking in the leafy glens。 I have heard people
passing by night in sleeping cities； some of them sang； one； I
remember； played loudly on the bagpipes。 I have heard the rattle
of a cart or carriage spring up suddenly after hours of stillness；
and pass； for some minutes； within the range of my hearing as I lay
abed。 There is a romance about all who are abroad in the black
hours； and with something of a thrill we try to guess their
business。 But here the romance was double： first； this glad
passenger； lit internally with wine； who sent up his voice in music
through the night； and then I； on the other hand； buckled into my
sack； and smoking alone in the pine…woods between four and five
thousand feet towards the stars。
When I awoke again （Sunday； 29th September）； many of the stars had
disappeared； only the stronger companions of the night still burned
visibly overhead； and away towards the east I saw a faint haze of
light upon the horizon； such as had been the Milky Way when I was
last awake。 Day was at hand。 I lit my lantern； and by its glow…
worm light put on my boots and gaiters； then I broke up some bread
for Modestine； filled my can at the water…tap； and lit my spirit…
lamp to boil myself some chocolate。 The blue darkness lay long in
the glade where I had so sweetly slumbered； but soon there was a
broad streak of orange melting into gold along the mountain…tops of
Vivarais。 A solemn glee possessed my mind at this gradual and
lovely coming in of day。 I heard the runnel with delight； I looked
round me for something beautiful and unexpected； but the still
black pine…trees； the hollow glade； the munching ass； remained
unchanged in figure。 Nothing had altered but the light； and that；
indeed； shed over all a spirit of life and of breathing peace； and
moved me to a strange exhilaration。
I drank my water…chocolate； which was hot if it was not rich； and
strolled here and there； and up and down about the glade。 While I
was thus delaying； a gush of steady wind； as long as a heavy sigh；
poured direct out of the quarter of the morning。 It was cold； and
set me sneezing。 The trees near at hand tossed their black plumes
in its passage； and I could see the thin distant spires of pine
along the edge of the hill rock slightly to and fro against the
golden east。 Ten minutes after； the sunlight spread at a gallop
along the hillside； scattering shadows and sparkles； and the day
had come completely。
I hastened to prepare my pack； and tackle the steep ascent that lay
before me； but I had something on my mind。 It was only a fancy；
yet a fancy will sometimes be importunate。 I had been most
hospitably received and punctually served in my green caravanserai。
The room was airy； the water excellent； and the dawn had called me
to a moment。 I say nothing of the tapestries or the inimitable
ceiling； nor yet of the view which I commanded from the windows；
but I felt I was in some one's debt for all this liberal
entertainment。 And so it pleased me； in a half…laughing way； to
leave pieces of money on the turf as I went along； until I had left
enough for my night's lodging。 I trust they did not fall to some
rich and churlish drover。
THE COUNTRY OF THE CAMISARDS
We travelled in the print of olden wars；
Yet all the land was green；
And love we found； and peace；
Where fire and war had been。
They pass and smile； the children of the sword …
No more the sword they wield；
And O； how deep the corn
Along the battlefield！
W。 P。 BANNATYNE。
THE COUNTRY OF THE CAMISARDS
ACROSS THE LOZERE
THE track that I had followed in the evening soon died out； and I
continued to follow over a bald turf ascent a row of stone pillars；
such as had conducted me across the Goulet。 It was already warm。
I tied my jacket on the pack； and walked in my knitted waistcoat。
Modestine herself was in high spirits； and broke of her own accord；
for the first time in my experience； into a jolting trot that set
the oats swashing in the pocket of my coat。 The view； back upon
the northern Gevaudan； extended with every step； scarce a tree；
scarce a house； appeared upon the fields of wild hill that ran
north； east； and west； all blue and gold in the haze and sunlight
of the morning。 A multitude of little birds kept sweeping and
twittering about my path； they perched on the stone pillars； they
pecked and strutted on the turf； and I saw them circle in volleys
in the blue air； and show； from time to time； translucent
flickering wings between the sun and me。
Almost from the first moment of my march； a faint large noise； like
a distant surf； had filled my ears。 Sometimes I was tempted to
think it the voice of a neighbouring waterfall； and sometimes a
subjective result of the utter stillness of the hill。 But as I
continued to advance； the noise increased； and became like the
hissing of an enormous tea…urn； and at the same time breaths of
cool air began to reach me from the direction of the summit。 At
length I understood。 It was blowing stiffly from the south upon
the other slope of the Lozere； and every step that I took I was
drawing nearer to the wind。
Although it had been long desired； it was quite unexpectedly at
last that my eyes rose above the summit。 A step that seemed no way
more decisive than many oth