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What a marvelous art is that of weaving； and how much the human race of today owes to the patient endeavors of the 〃little brown woman〃 of the past for the perfection to which she brought this；one of the most primitive of the arts。
Blanketry was a necessary outcome of basketry。 The use of flexible twigs for baskets readily suggested the use of pliable fibres for textiles； and there is little question that almost simultaneously with the first rude baskets the first textile fabrics made their appearance。
Whence the art had its origin we do not know。 But it is a matter of record that in this country； three hundred and fifty years ago； when the Spanish first came into what is now United States territory； they found the art of weaving in a well advanced stage among the domestic and sedentary Pueblo Indians； and the wild and nomadic Navahos。 Scientists who have given the question careful study； hold that the cotton of these blankets was grown by these Arizona Indians from time immemorial； and they also used the tough fibres of the yucca and agave leaves and the hairs of various wild animals； either separately or with the cotton。 Their processes of weaving were exactly the same then as they are today； there being but slight difference between the methods followed before the advent of the whites and afterward。 Hence； in a study of the Indian blanket； as it is made today； we are approximately nearly to the pure aboriginal method of pre…Columbian times。
Archeologists and ethnologists generally assume that the art of weaving on the loom was learned by the Navahos from their Pueblo neighbors。 All the facts in the case seem to bear out this supposition。 Yet； as is well known； the Navahos are a part of the great Athabascan family； which has scattered； by separate migrations； from Alaska into California； Arizona and New Mexico。 Many of the Alaskans are good weavers； and according to Navaho traditions； their ancestors； when they came into the country； wore blankets that were made of cedar bark and yucca fibre。 Even in the Alaska （Thlinket） blankets； made today of the wool of the white mountain goat； cedar bark is twisted in with the wool of the warp。 Why； then； should not the Navaho woman have brought the art of weaving； possibly in a very primitive stage； from her original Alaskan home？ That her art； however； has been improved by her contact with the Pueblo and other Indians； there can be no question； and； if she had a crude loom； it was speedily replaced by the one so long used by the Pueblo。 Where the Pueblo weaver gained her loom we do not know； whether from the tribes of the South or by her own invention。 But in all practical ways the primitive loom was as complete and perfect at the time of the Spanish conquest as it is today。
Any loom； to be complete； must possess certain qualifications。 As Dr。 Mason has well said： 〃In any style of mechanical weaving； however simple or complex； even in darning； the following operations are performed： First； raising and lowering alternately different sets of warp filaments to form the 'sheds'； second； throwing the shuttle； or performing some operation that amounts to the same thing； third； after inserting the weft thread； driving it home； and adjusting it by means of the batten； be it the needle； the finger； the shuttle or a separate device。〃
Indian looms are made of four poles cut from trees that line the nearest stream or grow in the mountain forests。 Two of these poles are forked for uprights； and the cross beams are lashed to them above and below。 Sometimes the lower beam is dispensed with and wooden pegs driven into the earth instead。 The warp is then arranged on beams lashed to the top and bottom of the frame by means of a rawhide or horse…hair riata。 Our Western word lariat is merely a corruption of lariata。 Thus the warp is made tight and is ready for the nimble fingers of the weaver。 Her shuttles are pieces of smooth； round sticks upon the ends of which she winds yarn。 Small balls of yarn are frequently made to serve this purpose。 By her side is a crude wooden comb with which she strikes a few stitches into place。 When she wishes to wedge the yarn for a complete rowfrom side to sideshe uses a flat broad stick； one edge of which is sharpened almost to knife…like keenness。 This is called the 〃batten。〃 With the design in her brain her busy and skilful fingers produce the pattern as she desires it； there being no sketch from which she may copy。 In weaving a blanket of intricate pattern and many colors the weaver finds it easier to open the few warp threads needed with her fingers and then thrust between them the small balls of yarn； rather than bother with a shuttle； no matter how simple。
Before blankets can be made the wool must be cut from the sheep； cleaned； carded； spun and dyed。 It is one of the interesting sights of the southwest region to see a flock of sheep and goats running together； watched over； perhaps； by a lad of ten or a dozen years； or by a woman who is ultimately to weave the fleeces they carry into substantial blankets。 After the fleece has been sheared； the Navaho woman proceeds to wash it。 Then it is combed with hand cards；small flat implements with wire teeth； purchased from the traders。 （These and the shears are the only modern implements used。） The dyeing is often done before the spinning but generally after。 The spindle used is merely a slender stick thrust through a circular disc of wood。 In spite of the fact that the Navahos have seen the spinning wheels in use by the Mexicans and Mormons； they have never cared either to make or adopt them。 Their conservatism preserves the ancient； slow and laborious method。 The Navahos live on a reservation which covers several hundred square miles； extending along the northern borders of New Mexico and Arizona where few travelers go。 They do not live in villages or settlements and their homes are so scattered that one may travel a whole day without finding a woman at work with her loom。 Day after day； however； one may see the carding； spinning and weaving processes in the Hopi House at El Tovar； where a little colony of Navahos is maintained。
Holding the spindle in the right hand； the point of the short end below the balancing disc resting on the ground and the long end on her knee； the spinner attaches the end of her staple close to the disc and then gives the spindle a rapid twirl。 As it revolves she holds the yarn out so that it twists。 As it tightens sufficiently she allows it to wrap on the spindle and repeats the operation until the spindle is full。 The spinning is done loosely or tightly； according to the fineness of the weave required in the blanket。
The quality and value of a Navaho blanket is governed largely by the fineness of the weave。 The yarn in some of the cheaper qualities now made is often coarse and loosely spun； and the warp； or chain； which has much to do with the life of a blanket； may be improperly spun and of uneven strength。 A blanket of a given size may be made in two weeks； or in four； or in two months； according to the quality of the work and the skill of the weaver。 Next in importance to the fineness of the weave is the proper blending of colors。 Though a woman may have the highest skill in her primitive art； she must take time to study out the color scheme for her blanket。 These are the principal factors； but there are others which enter into the making of a blanket； and the finer the product of the loom the more difficult the work becomes。
There are still a limited number of very fine blankets made。 The number is governed largely by the demand。
In the original or natural colors there are white； brown； gray and black； the latter rather a grayish black； or better salt； as Mathews describes it； 〃rusty。〃 Many of the best blankets now produced are of these natural colors； with sometimes a touch of red。
There are certain Navaho blankets much sought after by the collector； especially those rare old specimens made of purely native dye； the colors of which have softened into harmonious tones。 These have not been made for many years past and most of the specimens in perfect state of preservation that are in existence were obtained from Mexican families where they had been handed down from