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had been handed down from generation to generation as heirlooms。 Often in these old specimens the red figures were made of bayeta。 As Mason says： 〃The word 'bayeta' is nothing but the simple Spanish for the English 'baize' and is spelled 'bayeta' and not 'ballets' or 'valets。'〃 Formerly bayeta was a regular article of commerce。 It was generally sold by the rod and not by the pound。 Now； however； the duty is so high that its importation is practically prohibited。
This bayeta or baize was unravelled and the Indian woman often retwisted the warp to make it firmer。 She then rewove it into her incomparable blankets。
From the earliest days the Navahos have been expert dyers； their colors being black； brick…red； russet； blue； yellow； and a greenish yellow akin to an old gold shade。
There is abundant evidence that they formerly had a blue dye； but indigo； originally introduced probably by the Mexicans； has superceded this。 If in former days they had a native blue or yellow they must of necessity have had a green。 They now make green of their native yellow and indigo； the latter being the only imported dye stuff in use among them。
To make the black dye three ingredients were used： yellow ochre； pinion gum and the leaves and twigs of the aromatic sumac （thus aromatics）。 The ochre is pulverized and roasted until it becomes a light brown； when it is removed from the fire and mixed with an equal quantity of pinion gum。 This mixture is then placed on the fire and as the roasting continues it first becomes mushy； then darker as it dries until nothing but a fine black powder remains。 This powder is called 〃keyh…batch。〃 In the meantime the sumac leaves and twigs are being boiled。 Five or six hours are required to fully extract the juices。 When both are cooled they are mixed and immediately a rich； bluish…black fluid called 〃ele…gee…batch〃 is formed。
For yellow dye the tops of a flowering weed （Bigelovia graveolens） are boiled for hours until the liquid assumes a deep yellow color。 As soon as the extraction of color juices is complete the dyer takes some native alum （almogen） and heats it over the fire。 When it becomes pasty she generally adds it to the boiling concoction； which slowly becomes of the required yellow color；〃kayel…soly…batch。〃
The brick red dye； 〃says…tozzie…batch；〃 is extracted from the bark and the roots of the sumac； and ground alder bark； with the ashes of the juniper as a mordant。 She now immerses the wool and allows it to remain in the dye for half an hour or an hour。
Whence come the designs incorporated by these simple weavers into their blankets； sashes and dresses？ In this as in basketry and pottery； the answer is found in nature。 Many of their textile designs suggest a derivation from basketry ornamentation； which originally came from nature。 The angular； curveless figures of interlying plaits predominate and the principal subjects are the sameconventional devices representing clouds； stars； lightning； the rainbow； and emblems of the deities。 These simple forms are produced in endless combination and often in brilliant； kaleidoscopic grouping； sometimes representing broad effects of scarlet； black； green； yellow； and blue upon scarlet； and the wide ranges of color skilfully blended upon a ground of white。 The centre of the fabric is frequently occupied with tessellated or lozenge patterns of multicolored sides； or divided into panels of contrasting colors； in which different designs appear。 Some display symmetric zigzags； converging and spreading throughout their length。 In others bands of high color are defined by zones of neutral tints； or parted by thin； bright lines into a checkered mosaic。 In many only the most subdued shades appear。 Fine effects are obtained by using a short gray wool in its natural state； to form the body of the fabric in solid color； upon which figures in black； white and red are introduced。 Sometimes blankets are woven in narrow stripes of black and deep blue with borders relieved in tinted meanders along the sides and ends； or a central figure in the dark body with the design repeated in a diagonal panel at each corner。
The greatest charm of these primitive fabrics is the unrestrained freedom of the weaver in her treatment of primitive conventions。 To the checkered emblem of the rainbow she adds sweeping rays of color； typifying sunbeams。 Below the many angled cloud group she inserts random pencil lines of rain； or she often softens the rigid lines signifying lightning； with graceful interlacing and shaded tints。 Not confining herself alone to these traditional devices； she often creates realistic figures of common objects such as her grass brush； wooden weaving fork； a stalk of corn； a bow； an arrow or a plume of feathers from a dancer's mask。 Although the same characteristic styles of weaving and decoration are general； none of the larger designs are ever reproduced with exactness。 Every fabric carries some distinct variation or suggestion of the occasion of its making。
Among the Navahos the women invariably do the weaving though in the past a few men were experts in the art。 Among the Pueblo Indians the men perform this work。 The products of the Pueblo looms are readily distinguishable from those of the Navahos； the latter having far out…distanced the Pueblos in the excellence of their work。 Only among the Hopi； are blankets made that in any way resemble the work of the Navahos。 Generally a Hopi man weaver can be found at work in the Hopi House； as well as Navaho women weavers。
The Hopi to this day preserve the custom of wearing a bridal costume completely woven out of cotton。 After the wedding breakfast the groom's father 〃takes some native cotton and； running through the village； distributes it among the relations and friends of the family。 They pick the seeds from the cotton and return it。 A few days later a crier announces from the roof of a house that on a certain day the cotton for the bridal costume will be spun in the kivas。〃 Here the friends assemble and 〃the rasping of the carding combs and the buzzing of the primitive spindles〃 are heard accompanied by singing； joking and laughing of the crowd。 This cotton is then woven either by the bridegroom or his father or other male relation； into square blankets； one measuring about 60 by 72 inches； the other about 50 by 60 inches； also a sash with long knotted fringes at each end。 When woven they are given a coating of wet kaolin； which adds to their whiteness。
This preparation of garments often takes several weeks； during which time the young married couple reside at the home of the groom's parents。 Now the bride； with considerable simple ceremony； walks with one of the robes on； and the other in a reed wrapper； to her mother's house where； unless her husband has prepared a separate home for them； they continue to reside。 In the Field Columbian Museum； Chicago； is a fine model showing the young bride wearing her new garment； going to her mother's home。
In their ceremonial dances； the Hopi women wear cotton blankets； highly embroidered at the sides and edges with red； green； and black wool。 Fine specimens may be found in the Hopi House。 Similar to these in style； though long and narrow in shape； are the ceremonial kilts or sashes of the men。 In pictures showing the march of the Antelope Priests during the Hopi Snake Dance these beautiful sashes are well depicted。
In addition to the products of the vertical loom； the Navaho and Pueblo women weave a variety of smaller articles all of which are remarkable for their strength； durability and striking designs。
In weaving sashes； belts； hair bands； garters； etc。； the weaver uses a 〃heddle frame〃 similar to those found in Europe and New England。 None of these have been found in places that assure us of their use before the Spanish occupation； so we conclude that they were introduced by the conquistadores or the early colonists about 350 years ago。
The Thlinkets of Alaska； also； are good weavers。 In the Fred Harvey collection in the Hopi House； El Tovar； and Albuquerque； the United States National Museum and the Museum of Princeton University； fine collections of their work are to be seen。 These collections generally consist of cape and body blankets made of t