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e first place； we were so delayed by the storm that we arrived at eight o'clock at night； so that we missed seeing it in its beauty of flowers and palms。 And then it was so rough that they said it was most unsafe for us to attempt to go ashore。 It was a great disappointment but I urged that every one loved his own life； and if the natives were willing to risk theirs to sell us photographs and wicker baskets it was probably safer than it looked So we agreed to die together； and with Somers got our rain coats； and the three of us leaped into a row boat pulled by two Portugese pirates and started off toward a row of lamps on a quay that seemed much lower than the waves。 The remainder on the ship watched us disappear with ominus warnings We really had a most adventurous passagetowards shore the waves tossed us about like a lobster pot and we just missed being run down by a coal barge and escaped an upset over the bow anchor chain of a ship。 It was so close that both Somers and I had our coats off and I told Cecil to grab the chain But we weathered it and landed at a high gangway cut in the solid rock the first three steps of which were swamped by the waves。 A rope and chain hung from the top of the wharf and a man swung his weight on this and yanked us out to the steps as the boat was on the wave。 The rain beat and the wind roared and beautiful palms lashed the air with their fronds It was grand to get on shore once again At the end of the wharf we were hustled into a sled on steel runners； like a hearse with curtains around it and drawn by bullocks The streets were all of mosaic； thousands of little stones being packed together like corn on a cob。 Over this the heavy sledge was drawn by the bullocks while a small boy ran ahead through the narrow streets to clear the way He had a feather duster made of horse's tail as a badge of authority and he yelled some strange cry at the empty streets and closed houses。 Another little boy in a striped jersey ran beside and assured us he was a guide。 It was like a page out of a fairy story。 The strange cart sliding and slipping over the stones which were as smooth as ice； and the colored house fronts and the palms and strange plants。 The darkness made it all the more unreal There was a governor's palace buttressed and guarded by sentinels in a strange uniform and queer little cafe's under vinesand terraces of cannon； and at last a funny； pathetic little casino。 It was such a queer imitation of Aix and Monte Carlo There were chasseurs and footmen in magnificent livery and stucco white walls ornamented with silk SHAWLS。 Also a very good band and a new roulette table Coming in out of the night and the rain it was like a theatre after the 〃dark scene〃 has just passed There were some most dignified croupiers and three English women and a few sad English men and some very wicked looking natives in diamonds and white waistcoats。 We had only fifteen minutes to spare so we began playing briskly with two shilling pieces Cecil with indifferent fortune and Somers losing But I won every time and the croupiers gave me strange notes of the Bonco de Portugal which I put back on the board only to get more of a larger number I felt greatly embarrassed as I was not a real member of the club and I hated to blow in out of a hurricane and take their money and sail away again So I appealed to one of the sad eyed Englishmen and he assured me it was all right； that they welcomed the people from the passing steamers who generally left a few pounds each with the bank。 But the more I spread the money the more I won until finally the whole room gathered around。 Then I sent out and ordered champagne for everybody and spare gold to all the waiters and still cashed in seventy…five dollars in English money。 It was pretty good for fifteen minutes and we went out leaving the people open…eyed； and hitting the champagne bottles It was all a part of the fun especially as with all our gold we could get nothing for supper but 〃huevos frite〃 which was all the Spanish I could remember and which meant fried eggs But we were very wet and hungry and we got the eggs and some fruit and real Madeira wine and then rowed out again rejoicing。 The pirates demanded their pay half way to the boat while we were on the high seas but they had struck the very wrong men； and I never saw a mutiny quelled so abruptly Somers and I told them we'd throw them overboard and row ourselves and they understood remarkably well The next day we were the admired and envied of those who had not had the nerve 〃to dare to attempt。〃 It was one of the best experiences altogether we ever had and I shall certainly put Madeira on my silver cup。
RICHARD。
After their arrival at Cape Town； where Richard arranged for his wife to stay during his absence at the British front； he started for Ladysmith； sailing on the same vessel on which he had left England。
February 18th； 1900 board Scot。 DEAR MOTHER：
I got off yesterday and am hoping to get to Buller before Ladysmith is relieved。 I could not get to go with Roberts because Ralph has been here four months and has borne the heat and burden of the day； so although I only came in order to be with Roberts and Kitchener I could not ask to have Ralph recalled They wanted me with Roberts and I wanted it but none of us could make up our minds to turn down Ralph。 So I am going up on this side track on the chance of seeing Ladysmith relieved and of joining Roberts with Buller later。 I shall be satisfied if I see Ladysmith fall。 Fortunately I am to do a great deal of cabling for The Mail every day and that counts much more with the reading public than letters
Cape Town is a dusty； wind ridden western town with a mountain back of it which one man said was a badly painted back drop The only attractive thing about the town is this mountain and a hotel situated at its base in perfectly beautiful gardens。 Here Cecil is settled。 I got her a sitting room and a big bedroom and The Mail agent or Pryor pays her 150 a week and will take good care of her。 It really is a beautiful and comfortable hotel and grounds and she has made many friends； and also I forced a pitch battle with a woman who was rude to her when we visited the hospital So； as the hospital people were very keen to have me see and praise their hospital they have taken up arms against the unfortunate little bounder and championed Cecil and me。 Cecil had really nothing to do with it as you can imagine She only laughed but I gave the lady lots to remember。
On the other hand every one is as kind and interested in Cecil as can be。 Mrs。 Waldron whose son is Secretary to Milner and his secretary were more than polite to each of us。 Milner spent the whole evening we were there talking to Cecil and not to the lady we had had the row with； which was a pleasing triumph。 He sent me unsolicited a most flattering personal letter to the Governor of Natal； saying that I had come to him with my strong letters but that he had so enjoyed meeting me that he wished to pass me on on his own account。 Cecil asked me what it was I had talked so much to him about and I asked her if it were possible she couldn't guess that of course I would be telling him how to run the colony。 My advice was to bombard Cape Town and make martial law； for the Cape Towners are the most rotten； cowardly lot of rebels I ever imagined as being possible。 He seemed so glad to find any one who appreciated that it was a queen's colony in name only and said； 〃Mr。 Davis； it is as bad as thisI can take a stroll with you from these gardens （we were at the back of the Government House） and at the end of our stroll we will be in hostile territory。〃
We spent the last day after I had got my orders to join Buller （who seemed very pleased to have me） calling on the officials for passes together and they were in a great state falling into their coats and dressing guard for her and were all so friendly and hearty。 The Censor seems to think I am a sort of Matthew Arnold and should be wrapped in cotton； so does Pryor The Mail agent who apologizes for asking me to cable； which is just what I want to do。 They are very generous and are spending money like fresh air。 I am to cable letters to Cape Town；