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brought back； he was compelled to resume his coat； and to give a
promise of future peaceable demeanor。
Scarcely a leading man in Virginia could be found； though numbers of
the citizens joined the ranks of the guard when the arrest was made。
All lamented the stern necessity which dictated the execution。
Everything being ready； the command was given； 〃Men； do your duty；〃
and the box being instantly slipped from beneath his feet； he died
almost instantaneously。
The body was cut down and carried to the Virginia Hotel； where； in a
darkened room； it was scarcely laid out； when the unfortunate and
bereaved companion of the deceased arrived； at headlong speed； to
find that all was over； and that she was a widow。 Her grief and
heart…piercing cries were terrible evidences of the depth of her
attachment for her lost husband； and a considerable period elapsed
before she could regain the command of her excited feelings。
There is something about the desperado…nature that is wholly
unaccountableat least it looks unaccountable。 It is this。 The true
desperado is gifted with splendid courage； and yet he will take the most
infamous advantage of his enemy； armed and free； he will stand up before
a host and fight until he is shot all to pieces； and yet when he is under
the gallows and helpless he will cry and plead like a child。 Words are
cheap； and it is easy to call Slade a coward （all executed men who do not
〃die game〃 are promptly called cowards by unreflecting people）； and when
we read of Slade that he 〃had so exhausted himself by tears； prayers and
lamentations； that he had scarcely strength left to stand under the fatal
beam；〃 the disgraceful word suggests itself in a momentyet in
frequently defying and inviting the vengeance of banded Rocky Mountain
cut…throats by shooting down their comrades and leaders； and never
offering to hide or fly； Slade showed that he was a man of peerless
bravery。 No coward would dare that。 Many a notorious coward； many a
chicken…livered poltroon； coarse； brutal； degraded； has made his dying
speech without a quaver in his voice and been swung into eternity with
what looked liked the calmest fortitude； and so we are justified in
believing； from the low intellect of such a creature； that it was not
moral courage that enabled him to do it。 Then； if moral courage is not
the requisite quality； what could it have been that this stout…hearted
Slade lacked？this bloody； desperate； kindly…mannered； urbane gentleman；
who never hesitated to warn his most ruffianly enemies that he would kill
them whenever or wherever he came across them next！ I think it is a
conundrum worth investigating。
CHAPTER XII。
Just beyond the breakfast…station we overtook a Mormon emigrant train of
thirty…three wagons； and tramping wearily along and driving their herd of
loose cows； were dozens of coarse…clad and sad…looking men； women and
children； who had walked as they were walking now； day after day for
eight lingering weeks； and in that time had compassed the distance our
stage had come in eight days and three hoursseven hundred and ninety…
eight miles！ They were dusty and uncombed； hatless； bonnetless and
ragged； and they did look so tired！
After breakfast； we bathed in Horse Creek； a （previously） limpid；
sparkling streaman appreciated luxury； for it was very seldom that our
furious coach halted long enough for an indulgence of that kind。 We
changed horses ten or twelve times in every twenty…four hourschanged
mules； rathersix mulesand did it nearly every time in four minutes。
It was lively work。 As our coach rattled up to each station six
harnessed mules stepped gayly from the stable； and in the twinkling of an
eye； almost； the old team was out； and the new one in and we off and away
again。
During the afternoon we passed Sweetwater Creek； Independence Rock；
Devil's Gate and the Devil's Gap。 The latter were wild specimens of
rugged scenery； and full of interestwe were in the heart of the Rocky
Mountains； now。 And we also passed by 〃Alkali〃 or 〃Soda Lake；〃 and we
woke up to the fact that our journey had stretched a long way across the
world when the driver said that the Mormons often came there from Great
Salt Lake City to haul away saleratus。 He said that a few days gone by
they had shoveled up enough pure saleratus from the ground （it was a dry
lake） to load two wagons； and that when they got these two wagons…loads
of a drug that cost them nothing； to Salt Lake； they could sell it for
twenty…five cents a pound。
In the night we sailed by a most notable curiosity； and one we had been
hearing a good deal about for a day or two； and were suffering to see。
This was what might be called a natural ice…house。 It was August； now；
and sweltering weather in the daytime； yet at one of the stations the men
could scape the soil on the hill…side under the lee of a range of
boulders； and at a depth of six inches cut out pure blocks of icehard；
compactly frozen； and clear as crystal！
Toward dawn we got under way again； and presently as we sat with raised
curtains enjoying our early…morning smoke and contemplating the first
splendor of the rising sun as it swept down the long array of mountain
peaks； flushing and gilding crag after crag and summit after summit； as
if the invisible Creator reviewed his gray veterans and they saluted with
a smile； we hove in sight of South Pass City。 The hotel…keeper； the
postmaster； the blacksmith； the mayor； the constable； the city marshal
and the principal citizen and property holder； all came out and greeted
us cheerily； and we gave him good day。 He gave us a little Indian news；
and a little Rocky Mountain news； and we gave him some Plains information
in return。 He then retired to his lonely grandeur and we climbed on up
among the bristling peaks and the ragged clouds。 South Pass City
consisted of four log cabins； one if which was unfinished； and the
gentleman with all those offices and titles was the chiefest of the ten
citizens of the place。 Think of hotel…keeper； postmaster； blacksmith；
mayor； constable； city marshal and principal citizen all condensed into
one person and crammed into one skin。 Bemis said he was 〃a perfect
Allen's revolver of dignities。〃 And he said that if he were to die as
postmaster； or as blacksmith； or as postmaster and blacksmith both； the
people might stand it； but if he were to die all over； it would be a
frightful loss to the community。
Two miles beyond South Pass City we saw for the first time that
mysterious marvel which all Western untraveled boys have heard of and
fully believe in； but are sure to be astounded at when they see it with
their own eyes； neverthelessbanks of snow in dead summer time。 We were
now far up toward the sky； and knew all the time that we must presently
encounter lofty summits clad in the 〃eternal snow〃 which was so common
place a matter of mention in books； and yet when I did see it glittering
in the sun on stately domes in the distance and knew the month was August
and that my coat was hanging up because it was too warm to wear it； I was
full as much amazed as if I never had heard of snow in August before。
Truly； 〃seeing is believing〃and many a man lives a long life through；
thinking he believes certain universally received and well established
things； and yet never suspects that if he were confronted by those things
once； he would discover that he did not really believe them before； but
only thought he believed them。
In a little while quite a number of peaks swung into view with long claws
of glittering snow clasping them； and with here and there； in the shade；
down the mountain side； a little solitary patch of snow looking no larger
than a lady's pocket…handkerchief but being in reality as large as a
〃public square。〃
And now； at last； we were fairly in the renowned SOUTH PASS； and whirling
gayly along high above the common world。 We were perched upon the
extreme summit of the great range of the Rocky Mountains； toward which we
had been climbing； patiently climbing； ceaselessly climbing； for days and
nights togethera