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the vision had flashed by and disappeared； we might have doubted whether
we had seen any actual horse and man at all； maybe。
We rattled through Scott's Bluffs Pass； by and by。 It was along here
somewhere that we first came across genuine and unmistakable alkali water
in the road； and we cordially hailed it as a first…class curiosity； and a
thing to be mentioned with eclat in letters to the ignorant at home。
This water gave the road a soapy appearance； and in many places the
ground looked as if it had been whitewashed。 I think the strange alkali
water excited us as much as any wonder we had come upon yet； and I know
we felt very complacent and conceited； and better satisfied with life
after we had added it to our list of things which we had seen and some
other people had not。 In a small way we were the same sort of simpletons
as those who climb unnecessarily the perilous peaks of Mont Blanc and the
Matterhorn； and derive no pleasure from it except the reflection that it
isn't a common experience。 But once in a while one of those parties
trips and comes darting down the long mountain…crags in a sitting
posture； making the crusted snow smoke behind him； flitting from bench to
bench； and from terrace to terrace； jarring the earth where he strikes；
and still glancing and flitting on again； sticking an iceberg into
himself every now and then； and tearing his clothes； snatching at things
to save himself； taking hold of trees and fetching them along with him；
roots and all； starting little rocks now and then； then big boulders；
then acres of ice and snow and patches of forest； gathering and still
gathering as he goes； adding and still adding to his massed and sweeping
grandeur as he nears a three thousand…foot precipice； till at last he
waves his hat magnificently and rides into eternity on the back of a
raging and tossing avalanche！
This is all very fine； but let us not be carried away by excitement； but
ask calmly； how does this person feel about it in his cooler moments next
day； with six or seven thousand feet of snow and stuff on top of him？
We crossed the sand hills near the scene of the Indian mail robbery and
massacre of 1856； wherein the driver and conductor perished； and also all
the passengers but one； it was supposed； but this must have been a
mistake； for at different times afterward on the Pacific coast I was
personally acquainted with a hundred and thirty…three or four people who
were wounded during that massacre； and barely escaped with their lives。
There was no doubt of the truth of itI had it from their own lips。 One
of these parties told me that he kept coming across arrow…heads in his
system for nearly seven years after the massacre； and another of them
told me that he was struck so literally full of arrows that after the
Indians were gone and he could raise up and examine himself； he could not
restrain his tears； for his clothes were completely ruined。
The most trustworthy tradition avers； however； that only one man； a
person named Babbitt； survived the massacre； and he was desperately
wounded。 He dragged himself on his hands and knee （for one leg was
broken） to a station several miles away。 He did it during portions of
two nights； lying concealed one day and part of another； and for more
than forty hours suffering unimaginable anguish from hunger； thirst and
bodily pain。 The Indians robbed the coach of everything it contained；
including quite an amount of treasure。
CHAPTER IX。
We passed Fort Laramie in the night； and on the seventh morning out we
found ourselves in the Black Hills； with Laramie Peak at our elbow
（apparently） looming vast and solitarya deep； dark； rich indigo blue in
hue； so portentously did the old colossus frown under his beetling brows
of storm…cloud。 He was thirty or forty miles away； in reality； but he
only seemed removed a little beyond the low ridge at our right。 We
breakfasted at Horse…Shoe Station； six hundred and seventy…six miles out
from St。 Joseph。 We had now reached a hostile Indian country； and during
the afternoon we passed Laparelle Station； and enjoyed great discomfort
all the time we were in the neighborhood； being aware that many of the
trees we dashed by at arm's length concealed a lurking Indian or two。
During the preceding night an ambushed savage had sent a bullet through
the pony…rider's jacket； but he had ridden on； just the same； because
pony…riders were not allowed to stop and inquire into such things except
when killed。 As long as they had life enough left in them they had to
stick to the horse and ride； even if the Indians had been waiting for
them a week； and were entirely out of patience。 About two hours and a
half before we arrived at Laparelle Station； the keeper in charge of it
had fired four times at an Indian； but he said with an injured air that
the Indian had 〃skipped around so's to spile everythingand ammunition's
blamed skurse； too。〃 The most natural inference conveyed by his manner of
speaking was； that in 〃skipping around；〃 the Indian had taken an unfair
advantage。
The coach we were in had a neat hole through its fronta reminiscence of
its last trip through this region。 The bullet that made it wounded the
driver slightly； but he did not mind it much。 He said the place to keep
a man 〃huffy〃 was down on the Southern Overland； among the Apaches；
before the company moved the stage line up on the northern route。 He
said the Apaches used to annoy him all the time down there； and that he
came as near as anything to starving to death in the midst of abundance；
because they kept him so leaky with bullet holes that he 〃couldn't hold
his vittles。〃
This person's statement were not generally believed。
We shut the blinds down very tightly that first night in the hostile
Indian country； and lay on our arms。 We slept on them some； but most of
the time we only lay on them。 We did not talk much； but kept quiet and
listened。 It was an inky…black night； and occasionally rainy。 We were
among woods and rocks； hills and gorgesso shut in； in fact； that when
we peeped through a chink in a curtain； we could discern nothing。 The
driver and conductor on top were still； too； or only spoke at long
intervals； in low tones； as is the way of men in the midst of invisible
dangers。 We listened to rain…drops pattering on the roof； and the
grinding of the wheels through the muddy gravel； and the low wailing of
the wind； and all the time we had that absurd sense upon us； inseparable
from travel at night in a close…curtained vehicle； the sense of remaining
perfectly still in one place； notwithstanding the jolting and swaying of
the vehicle； the trampling of the horses； and the grinding of the wheels。
We listened a long time； with intent faculties and bated breath； every
time one of us would relax； and draw a long sigh of relief and start to
say something； a comrade would be sure to utter a sudden 〃Hark！〃 and
instantly the experimenter was rigid and listening again。 So the
tiresome minutes and decades of minutes dragged away； until at last our
tense forms filmed over with a dulled consciousness； and we slept； if one
might call such a condition by so strong a namefor it was a sleep set
with a hair…trigger。 It was a sleep seething and teeming with a weird
and distressful confusion of shreds and fag…ends of dreamsa sleep that
was a chaos。 Presently； dreams and sleep and the sullen hush of the
night were startled by a ringing report； and cloven by such a long； wild；
agonizing shriek！ Then we heardten steps from the stage
〃Help！ help！ help！〃 ＇It was our driver's voice。＇
〃Kill him！ Kill him like a dog！〃
〃I'm being murdered！ Will no man lend me a pistol？〃
〃Look out！ head him off！ head him off！〃
＇Two pistol shots； a confusion of voices and the trampling of many feet；
as if a crowd were closing and surging together around some object；
several heavy； dull blows； as with a club； a voice that said appealingly；
〃Don't； gentlemen； please don'tI'm a dead man！〃 Then a fainter groan；
and another blow； and away sped the stage into the darkness； and left the
grisly mystery behind us。＇
What a startle it was！ Eight seconds would amply cove