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where it is planted； and how it is planted。 It has no improper
rugged ideas of its own。 It does not want to wave or to spread
itself。 It just grows straight and upright as a German tree should
grow； and so gradually the German is rooting out all other trees；
and replacing them with poplars。
Your German likes the country； but he prefers it as the lady
thought she would the noble savagemore dressed。 He likes his
walk through the woodto a restaurant。 But the pathway must not
be too steep； it must have a brick gutter running down one side of
it to drain it； and every twenty yards or so it must have its seat
on which he can rest and mop his brow； for your German would no
more think of sitting on the grass than would an English bishop
dream of rolling down One Tree Hill。 He likes his view from the
summit of the hill； but he likes to find there a stone tablet
telling him what to look at； find a table and bench at which he can
sit to partake of the frugal beer and 〃belegte Semmel〃 he has been
careful to bring with him。 If； in addition； he can find a police
notice posted on a tree； forbidding him to do something or other；
that gives him an extra sense of comfort and security。
Your German is not averse even to wild scenery； provided it be not
too wild。 But if he consider it too savage； he sets to work to
tame it。 I remember； in the neighbourhood of Dresden； discovering
a picturesque and narrow valley leading down towards the Elbe。 The
winding roadway ran beside a mountain torrent； which for a mile or
so fretted and foamed over rocks and boulders between wood…covered
banks。 I followed it enchanted until； turning a corner； I suddenly
came across a gang of eighty or a hundred workmen。 They were busy
tidying up that valley； and making that stream respectable。 All
the stones that were impeding the course of the water they were
carefully picking out and carting away。 The bank on either side
they were bricking up and cementing。 The overhanging trees and
bushes； the tangled vines and creepers they were rooting up and
trimming down。 A little further I came upon the finished workthe
mountain valley as it ought to be； according to German ideas。 The
water； now a broad； sluggish stream； flowed over a level； gravelly
bed； between two walls crowned with stone coping。 At every hundred
yards it gently descended down three shallow wooden platforms。 For
a space on either side the ground had been cleared； and at regular
intervals young poplars planted。 Each sapling was protected by a
shield of wickerwork and bossed by an iron rod。 In the course of a
couple of years it is the hope of the local council to have
〃finished〃 that valley throughout its entire length； and made it
fit for a tidy…minded lover of German nature to walk in。 There
will be a seat every fifty yards； a police notice every hundred；
and a restaurant every half…mile。
They are doing the same from the Memel to the Rhine。 They are just
tidying up the country。 I remember well the Wehrthal。 It was once
the most romantic ravine to be found in the Black Forest。 The last
time I walked down it some hundreds of Italian workmen were
encamped there hard at work； training the wild little Wehr the way
it should go； bricking the banks for it here； blasting the rocks
for it there； making cement steps for it down which it can travel
soberly and without fuss。
For in Germany there is no nonsense talked about untrammelled
nature。 In Germany nature has got to behave herself； and not set a
bad example to the children。 A German poet； noticing waters coming
down as Southey describes； somewhat inexactly； the waters coming
down at Lodore； would be too shocked to stop and write alliterative
verse about them。 He would hurry away； and at once report them to
the police。 Then their foaming and their shrieking would be of
short duration。
〃Now then； now then； what's all this about？〃 the voice of German
authority would say severely to the waters。 〃We can't have this
sort of thing； you know。 Come down quietly； can't you？ Where do
you think you are？〃
And the local German council would provide those waters with zinc
pipes and wooden troughs； and a corkscrew staircase； and show them
how to come down sensibly； in the German manner。
It is a tidy land is Germany。
We reached Dresden on the Wednesday evening； and stayed there over
the Sunday。
Taking one consideration with another； Dresden； perhaps； is the
most attractive town in Germany； but it is a place to be lived in
for a while rather than visited。 Its museums and galleries； its
palaces and gardens； its beautiful and historically rich
environment； provide pleasure for a winter； but bewilder for a
week。 It has not the gaiety of Paris or Vienna； which quickly
palls； its charms are more solidly German； and more lasting。 It is
the Mecca of the musician。 For five shillings； in Dresden； you can
purchase a stall at the opera house； together； unfortunately； with
a strong disinclination ever again to take the trouble of sitting
out a performance in any English； French； or； American opera house。
The chief scandal of Dresden still centres round August the Strong；
〃the Man of Sin；〃 as Carlyle always called him； who is popularly
reputed to have cursed Europe with over a thousand children。
Castles where he imprisoned this discarded mistress or thatone of
them； who persisted in her claim to a better title； for forty
years； it is said； poor lady！ The narrow rooms where she ate her
heart out and died are still shown。 Chateaux； shameful for this
deed of infamy or that； lie scattered round the neighbourhood like
bones about a battlefield； and most of your guide's stories are
such as the 〃young person〃 educated in Germany had best not hear。
His life…sized portrait hangs in the fine Zwinger； which he built
as an arena for his wild beast fights when the people grew tired of
them in the market…place； a beetle…browed； frankly animal man； but
with the culture and taste that so often wait upon animalism。
Modern Dresden undoubtedly owes much to him。
But what the stranger in Dresden stares at most is； perhaps； its
electric trams。 These huge vehicles flash through the streets at
from ten to twenty miles an hour； taking curves and corners after
the manner of an Irish car driver。 Everybody travels by them；
excepting only officers in uniform； who must not。 Ladies in
evening dress； going to ball or opera； porters with their baskets；
sit side by side。 They are all…important in the streets； and
everything and everybody makes haste to get out of their way。 If
you do not get out of their way； and you still happen to be alive
when picked up； then on your recovery you are fined for having been
in their way。 This teaches you to be wary of them。
One afternoon Harris took a 〃bummel〃 by himself。 In the evening；
as we sat listening to the band at the Belvedere； Harris said； a
propos of nothing in particular； 〃These Germans have no sense of
humour。〃
〃What makes you think that？〃 I asked。
〃Why； this afternoon；〃 he answered； 〃I jumped on one of those
electric tramcars。 I wanted to see the town； so I stood outside on
the little platformwhat do you call it？〃
〃The Stehplatz；〃 I suggested。
〃That's it；〃 said Harris。 〃Well； you know the way they shake you
about； and how you have to look out for the corners； and mind
yourself when they stop and when they start？〃
I nodded。
〃There were about half a dozen of us standing there；〃 he continued；
〃and； of course； I am not experienced。 The thing started suddenly；
and that jerked me backwards。 I fell against a stout gentleman；
just behind me。 He could not have been standing very firmly
himself； and he； in his turn； fell back against a boy who was
carrying a trumpet in a green baize case。 They never smiled；
neither the man nor the boy with the trumpet； they just stood there
and looked sulky。 I was going to say I was sorry； but before I
could get the words out the tram eased up； for some reason or
other； and that； of course； shot me forward again； and I butted
into a white…haired old chap； who looked to me like a professor。
Well； HE never smiled； never moved a muscle。〃
〃Maybe； he was