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mainland began to go down on the horizon； before she came to her
unhomely destination； and lay…to at last where the rock clapped its
black head above the swell； with the tall iron barrack on its
spider legs； and the truncated tower； and the cranes waving their
arms； and the smoke of the engine…fire rising in the mid…sea。 An
ugly reef is this of the Dhu Heartach； no pleasant assemblage of
shelves； and pools； and creeks； about which a child might play for
a whole summer without weariness； like the Bell Rock or the
Skerryvore； but one oval nodule of black…trap； sparsely bedabbled
with an inconspicuous fucus； and alive in every crevice with a
dingy insect between a slater and a bug。 No other life was there
but that of sea…birds； and of the sea itself； that here ran like a
mill…race； and growled about the outer reef for ever； and ever and
again； in the calmest weather； roared and spouted on the rock
itself。 Times were different upon Dhu…Heartach when it blew； and
the night fell dark； and the neighbour lights of Skerryvore and
Rhu…val were quenched in fog； and the men sat prisoned high up in
their iron drum； that then resounded with the lashing of the
sprays。 Fear sat with them in their sea…beleaguered dwelling； and
the colour changed in anxious faces when some greater billow struck
the barrack； and its pillars quivered and sprang under the blow。
It was then that the foreman builder； Mr。 Goodwillie； whom I see
before me still in his rock…habit of undecipherable rags； would get
his fiddle down and strike up human minstrelsy amid the music of
the storm。 But it was in sunshine only that I saw Dhu…Heartach；
and it was in sunshine； or the yet lovelier summer afterglow； that
the steamer would return to Earraid； ploughing an enchanted sea；
the obedient lighters； relieved of their deck cargo； riding in her
wake more quietly； and the steersman upon each； as she rose on the
long swell； standing tall and dark against the shining west。
But it was in Earraid itself that I delighted chiefly。 The
lighthouse settlement scarce encroached beyond its fences； over the
top of the first brae the ground was all virgin； the world all shut
out； the face of things unchanged by any of man's doings。 Here was
no living presence； save for the limpets on the rocks； for some
old； gray； rain…beaten ram that I might rouse out of a ferny den
betwixt two boulders； or for the haunting and the piping of the
gulls。 It was older than man； it was found so by incoming Celts；
and seafaring Norsemen； and Columba's priests。 The earthy savour
of the bog…plants； the rude disorder of the boulders； the
inimitable seaside brightness of the air； the brine and the iodine；
the lap of the billows among the weedy reefs； the sudden springing
up of a great run of dashing surf along the sea…front of the isle；
all that I saw and felt my predecessors must have seen and felt
with scarce a difference。 I steeped myself in open air and in past
ages。
〃Delightful would it be to me to be in UCHD AILIUN
On the pinnacle of a rock；
That I might often see
The face of the ocean；
That I might hear the song of the wonderful birds；
Source of happiness；
That I might hear the thunder of the crowding waves
Upon the rocks：
At times at work without compulsion …
This would be delightful；
At times plucking dulse from the rocks
At times at fishing。〃
So； about the next island of Iona； sang Columba himself twelve
hundred years before。 And so might I have sung of Earraid。
And all the while I was aware that this life of sea…bathing and
sun…burning was for me but a holiday。 In that year cannon were
roaring for days together on French battlefields； and I would sit
in my isle （I call it mine； after the use of lovers） and think upon
the war； and the loudness of these far…away battles； and the pain
of the men's wounds； and the weariness of their marching。 And I
would think too of that other war which is as old as mankind； and
is indeed the life of man： the unsparing war； the grinding slavery
of competition； the toil of seventy years； dear…bought bread；
precarious honour； the perils and pitfalls； and the poor rewards。
It was a long look forward； the future summoned me as with trumpet
calls； it warned me back as with a voice of weeping and beseeching；
and I thrilled and trembled on the brink of life； like a childish
bather on the beach。
There was another young man on Earraid in these days； and we were
much together； bathing； clambering on the boulders； trying to sail
a boat and spinning round instead in the oily whirlpools of the
roost。 But the most part of the time we spoke of the great
uncharted desert of our futures； wondering together what should
there befall us； hearing with surprise the sound of our own voices
in the empty vestibule of youth。 As far； and as hard； as it seemed
then to look forward to the grave； so far it seems now to look
backward upon these emotions； so hard to recall justly that loath
submission； as of the sacrificial bull； with which we stooped our
necks under the yoke of destiny。 I met my old companion but the
other day； I cannot tell of course what he was thinking； but； upon
my part； I was wondering to see us both so much at home； and so
composed and sedentary in the world； and how much we had gained；
and how much we had lost； to attain to that composure； and which
had been upon the whole our best estate： when we sat there prating
sensibly like men of some experience； or when we shared our
timorous and hopeful counsels in a western islet。
CHAPTER IX。 THOMAS STEVENSON … CIVIL ENGINEER
THE death of Thomas Stevenson will mean not very much to the
general reader。 His service to mankind took on forms of which the
public knows little and understands less。 He came seldom to
London； and then only as a task； remaining always a stranger and a
convinced provincial； putting up for years at the same hotel where
his father had gone before him； faithful for long to the same
restaurant； the same church； and the same theatre； chosen simply
for propinquity； steadfastly refusing to dine out。 He had a circle
of his own； indeed； at home； few men were more beloved in
Edinburgh； where he breathed an air that pleased him； and wherever
he went； in railway carriages or hotel smoking…rooms； his strange；
humorous vein of talk； and his transparent honesty； raised him up
friends and admirers。 But to the general public and the world of
London； except about the parliamentary committee…rooms； he remained
unknown。 All the time； his lights were in every part of the world；
guiding the mariner； his firm were consulting engineers to the
Indian； the New Zealand； and the Japanese Lighthouse Boards； so
that Edinburgh was a world centre for that branch of applied
science； in Germany； he had been called 〃the Nestor of lighthouse
illumination〃； even in France； where his claims were long denied；
he was at last； on the occasion of the late Exposition； recognised
and medalled。 And to show by one instance the inverted nature of
his reputation； comparatively small at home； yet filling the world；
a friend of mine was this winter on a visit to the Spanish main；
and was asked by a Peruvian if he 〃knew Mr。 Stevenson the author；
because his works were much esteemed in Peru？〃 My friend supposed
the reference was to the writer of tales； but the Peruvian had
never heard of DR。 JEKYLL； what he had in his eye； what was
esteemed in Peru； where the volumes of the engineer。
Thomas Stevenson was born at Edinburgh in the year 1818； the
grandson of Thomas Smith； first engineer to the Board of Northern
Lights； son of Robert Stevenson； brother of Alan and David； so that
his nephew； David Alan Stevenson； joined with him at the time of
his death in the engineership； is the sixth of the family who has
held； successively o