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hearkened； and meanwhile sleep took gradual possession of my body
and subdued my thoughts and senses； but still my last waking effort
was to listen and distinguish； and my last conscious state was one
of wonder at the foreign clamour in my ears。
Twice in the course of the dark hours … once when a stone galled me
underneath the sack； and again when the poor patient Modestine；
growing angry； pawed and stamped upon the road … I was recalled for
a brief while to consciousness； and saw a star or two overhead； and
the lace…like edge of the foliage against the sky。 When I awoke
for the third time （Wednesday； September 25th）； the world was
flooded with a blue light； the mother of the dawn。 I saw the
leaves labouring in the wind and the ribbon of the road； and； on
turning my head； there was Modestine tied to a beech； and standing
half across the path in an attitude of inimitable patience。 I
closed my eyes again； and set to thinking over the experience of
the night。 I was surprised to find how easy and pleasant it had
been； even in this tempestuous weather。 The stone which annoyed me
would not have been there； had I not been forced to camp blindfold
in the opaque night； and I had felt no other inconvenience； except
when my feet encountered the lantern or the second volume of
Peyrat's PASTORS OF THE DESERT among the mixed contents of my
sleeping…bag； nay； more； I had felt not a touch of cold； and
awakened with unusually lightsome and clear sensations。
With that； I shook myself； got once more into my boots and gaiters；
and； breaking up the rest of the bread for Modestine； strolled
about to see in what part of the world I had awakened。 Ulysses；
left on Ithaca； and with a mind unsettled by the goddess； was not
more pleasantly astray。 I have been after an adventure all my
life； a pure dispassionate adventure； such as befell early and
heroic voyagers； and thus to be found by morning in a random
woodside nook in Gevaudan … not knowing north from south； as
strange to my surroundings as the first man upon the earth； an
inland castaway … was to find a fraction of my day…dreams realised。
I was on the skirts of a little wood of birch； sprinkled with a few
beeches； behind； it adjoined another wood of fir； and in front； it
broke up and went down in open order into a shallow and meadowy
dale。 All around there were bare hilltops； some near； some far
away； as the perspective closed or opened； but none apparently much
higher than the rest。 The wind huddled the trees。 The golden
specks of autumn in the birches tossed shiveringly。 Overhead the
sky was full of strings and shreds of vapour； flying； vanishing；
reappearing； and turning about an axis like tumblers； as the wind
hounded them through heaven。 It was wild weather and famishing
cold。 I ate some chocolate； swallowed a mouthful of brandy； and
smoked a cigarette before the cold should have time to disable my
fingers。 And by the time I had got all this done； and had made my
pack and bound it on the pack…saddle； the day was tiptoe on the
threshold of the east。 We had not gone many steps along the lane；
before the sun； still invisible to me； sent a glow of gold over
some cloud mountains that lay ranged along the eastern sky。
The wind had us on the stern； and hurried us bitingly forward。 I
buttoned myself into my coat； and walked on in a pleasant frame of
mind with all men； when suddenly； at a corner； there was Fouzilhic
once more in front of me。 Nor only that； but there was the old
gentleman who had escorted me so far the night before； running out
of his house at sight of me； with hands upraised in horror。
'My poor boy！' he cried； 'what does this mean？'
I told him what had happened。 He beat his old hands like clappers
in a mill； to think how lightly he had let me go； but when he heard
of the man of Fouzilhac； anger and depression seized upon his mind。
'This time； at least；' said he； 'there shall be no mistake。'
And he limped along； for he was very rheumatic； for about half a
mile； and until I was almost within sight of Cheylard； the
destination I had hunted for so long。
CHEYLARD AND LUC
CANDIDLY； it seemed little worthy of all this searching。 A few
broken ends of village； with no particular street； but a succession
of open places heaped with logs and fagots； a couple of tilted
crosses； a shrine to Our Lady of all Graces on the summit of a
little hill； and all this； upon a rattling highland river； in the
corner of a naked valley。 What went ye out for to see？ thought I
to myself。 But the place had a life of its own。 I found a board；
commemorating the liberalities of Cheylard for the past year； hung
up； like a banner； in the diminutive and tottering church。 In
1877； it appeared； the inhabitants subscribed forty…eight francs
ten centimes for the 'Work of the Propagation of the Faith。' Some
of this； I could not help hoping； would be applied to my native
land。 Cheylard scrapes together halfpence for the darkened souls
in Edinburgh； while Balquhidder and Dunrossness bemoan the
ignorance of Rome。 Thus； to the high entertainment of the angels；
do we pelt each other with evangelists； like schoolboys bickering
in the snow。
The inn was again singularly unpretentious。 The whole furniture of
a not ill…to…do family was in the kitchen： the beds； the cradle；
the clothes； the plate…rack； the meal…chest； and the photograph of
the parish priest。 There were five children； one of whom was set
to its morning prayers at the stair…foot soon after my arrival； and
a sixth would ere long be forthcoming。 I was kindly received by
these good folk。 They were much interested in my misadventure。
The wood in which I had slept belonged to them； the man of
Fouzilhac they thought a monster of iniquity； and counselled me
warmly to summon him at law … 'because I might have died。' The
good wife was horror…stricken to see me drink over a pint of
uncreamed milk。
'You will do yourself an evil；' she said。 'Permit me to boil it
for you。'
After I had begun the morning on this delightful liquor； she having
an infinity of things to arrange； I was permitted； nay requested；
to make a bowl of chocolate for myself。 My boots and gaiters were
hung up to dry； and； seeing me trying to write my journal on my
knee； the eldest daughter let down a hinged table in the chimney…
corner for my convenience。 Here I wrote； drank my chocolate； and
finally ate an omelette before I left。 The table was thick with
dust； for； as they explained； it was not used except in winter
weather。 I had a clear look up the vent； through brown
agglomerations of soot and blue vapour； to the sky； and whenever a
handful of twigs was thrown on to the fire； my legs were scorched
by the blaze。
The husband had begun life as a muleteer； and when I came to charge
Modestine showed himself full of the prudence of his art。 'You
will have to change this package；' said he； 'it ought to be in two
parts； and then you might have double the weight。'
I explained that I wanted no more weight； and for no donkey
hitherto created would I cut my sleeping…bag in two。
'It fatigues her； however；' said the innkeeper； 'it fatigues her
greatly on the march。 Look。'
Alas； there were her two forelegs no better than raw beef on the
inside； and blood was running from under her tail。 They told me
when I started； and I was ready to believe it； that before a few
days I should come to love Modestine like a dog。 Three days had
passed； we had shared some misadventures； and my heart was still as
cold as a potato towards my beast of burden。 She was pretty enough
to look at； but then she had given proof of dead stupidity；
redeemed indeed by patience； but aggravated by flashes of sorry and
ill…judged light…heartedness。 And I own this new discovery s