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except our travelling feet。 On the opposite slope； the monstrous
ribs and gullies of the mountain were faintly designed in the
moonshine； and high overhead； in some lone house； there burned one
lighted window； one square spark of red in the huge field of sad
nocturnal colouring。
At a certain point； as I went downward； turning many acute angles；
the moon disappeared behind the hill； and I pursued my way in great
darkness； until another turning shot me without preparation into
St。 Germain de Calberte。 The place was asleep and silent； and
buried in opaque night。 Only from a single open door； some
lamplight escaped upon the road to show me that I was come among
men's habitations。 The two last gossips of the evening； still
talking by a garden wall； directed me to the inn。 The landlady was
getting her chicks to bed； the fire was already out； and had； not
without grumbling； to be rekindled； half an hour later； and I must
have gone supperless to roost。
THE LAST DAY
WHEN I awoke （Thursday； 2nd October）； and； hearing a great
flourishing of cocks and chuckling of contented hens； betook me to
the window of the clean and comfortable room where I had slept the
night； I looked forth on a sunshiny morning in a deep vale of
chestnut gardens。 It was still early； and the cockcrows； and the
slanting lights； and the long shadows encouraged me to be out and
look round me。
St。 Germain de Calberte is a great parish nine leagues round about。
At the period of the wars； and immediately before the devastation；
it was inhabited by two hundred and seventy…five families； of which
only nine were Catholic； and it took the CURE seventeen September
days to go from house to house on horseback for a census。 But the
place itself； although capital of a canton； is scarce larger than a
hamlet。 It lies terraced across a steep slope in the midst of
mighty chestnuts。 The Protestant chapel stands below upon a
shoulder； in the midst of the town is the quaint old Catholic
church。
It was here that poor Du Chayla； the Christian martyr； kept his
library and held a court of missionaries； here he had built his
tomb； thinking to lie among a grateful population whom he had
redeemed from error； and hither on the morrow of his death they
brought the body； pierced with two…and…fifty wounds； to be
interred。 Clad in his priestly robes； he was laid out in state in
the church。 The CURE； taking his text from Second Samuel；
twentieth chapter and twelfth verse； 'And Amasa wallowed in his
blood in the highway；' preached a rousing sermon； and exhorted his
brethren to die each at his post； like their unhappy and
illustrious superior。 In the midst of this eloquence there came a
breeze that Spirit Seguier was near at hand； and behold！ all the
assembly took to their horses' heels； some east； some west； and the
CURE himself as far as Alais。
Strange was the position of this little Catholic metropolis； a
thimbleful of Rome； in such a wild and contrary neighbourhood。 On
the one hand； the legion of Salomon overlooked it from Cassagnas；
on the other； it was cut off from assistance by the legion of
Roland at Mialet。 The CURE； Louvrelenil； although he took a panic
at the arch…priest's funeral； and so hurriedly decamped to Alais；
stood well by his isolated pulpit； and thence uttered fulminations
against the crimes of the Protestants。 Salomon besieged the
village for an hour and a half； but was beaten back。 The
militiamen； on guard before the CURE'S door； could be heard； in the
black hours； singing Protestant psalms and holding friendly talk
with the insurgents。 And in the morning； although not a shot had
been fired； there would not be a round of powder in their flasks。
Where was it gone？ All handed over to the Camisards for a
consideration。 Untrusty guardians for an isolated priest！
That these continual stirs were once busy in St。 Germain de
Calberte； the imagination with difficulty receives； all is now so
quiet； the pulse of human life now beats so low and still in this
hamlet of the mountains。 Boys followed me a great way off； like a
timid sort of lion…hunters； and people turned round to have a
second look； or came out of their houses； as I went by。 My passage
was the first event； you would have fancied； since the Camisards。
There was nothing rude or forward in this observation； it was but a
pleased and wondering scrutiny； like that of oxen or the human
infant； yet it wearied my spirits； and soon drove me from the
street。
I took refuge on the terraces； which are here greenly carpeted with
sward； and tried to imitate with a pencil the inimitable attitudes
of the chestnuts as they bear up their canopy of leaves。 Ever and
again a little wind went by； and the nuts dropped all around me；
with a light and dull sound； upon the sward。 The noise was as of a
thin fall of great hailstones； but there went with it a cheerful
human sentiment of an approaching harvest and farmers rejoicing in
their gains。 Looking up； I could see the brown nut peering through
the husk； which was already gaping； and between the stems the eye
embraced an amphitheatre of hill； sunlit and green with leaves。
I have not often enjoyed a place more deeply。 I moved in an
atmosphere of pleasure； and felt light and quiet and content。 But
perhaps it was not the place alone that so disposed my spirit。
Perhaps some one was thinking of me in another country； or perhaps
some thought of my own had come and gone unnoticed； and yet done me
good。 For some thoughts； which sure would be the most beautiful；
vanish before we can rightly scan their features； as though a god；
travelling by our green highways； should but ope the door； give one
smiling look into the house； and go again for ever。 Was it Apollo；
or Mercury； or Love with folded wings？ Who shall say？ But we go
the lighter about our business； and feel peace and pleasure in our
hearts。
I dined with a pair of Catholics。 They agreed in the condemnation
of a young man； a Catholic； who had married a Protestant girl and
gone over to the religion of his wife。 A Protestant born they
could understand and respect； indeed； they seemed to be of the mind
of an old Catholic woman； who told me that same day there was no
difference between the two sects； save that 'wrong was more wrong
for the Catholic；' who had more light and guidance； but this of a
man's desertion filled them with contempt。
'It is a bad idea for a man to change；' said one。
It may have been accidental； but you see how this phrase pursued
me； and for myself； I believe it is the current philosophy in these
parts。 I have some difficulty in imagining a better。 It's not
only a great flight of confidence for a man to change his creed and
go out of his family for heaven's sake； but the odds are … nay； and
the hope is … that； with all this great transition in the eyes of
man； he has not changed himself a hairbreadth to the eyes of God。
Honour to those who do so； for the wrench is sore。 But it argues
something narrow； whether of strength or weakness； whether of the
prophet or the fool； in those who can take a sufficient interest in
such infinitesimal and human operations； or who can quit a
friendship for a doubtful process of the mind。 And I think I
should not leave my old creed for another； changing only words for
other words； but by some brave reading； embrace it in spirit and
truth； and find wrong as wrong for me as for the best of other
communions
The phylloxera was in the neighbourhood； and instead of wine we
drank at dinner a more economical juice of the grape … La
Parisienne； they call it。 It is made by putting the fruit whole
into a cask with water； one by one the berries ferment and burst；
what is drunk during the day is supplied at night in water： so；
with ever a