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CHAPTER XXVIII。 The Colorado River From The Mountains To The Sea
Perhaps no river in the world has so remarkable a life…history as has the Colorado。 It is formed of two great streams； the Green and the Grand。 Both have their rise in the far…away mountains； in banks of virgin and purest snow。 Hence the waters of the Colorado at their source are pure and sweet。 Yet such is the vehement force of this river； such its haste to reach the ocean； that it cuts down and carries with it millions of tons annually of sand and silt； rock debris and dirt until； when it reaches the desert； through which it flows as a lazy dragon； reddish…yellow； tawny； it is the dirtiest stream in the world。 For not only does it carry the sand of its own grinding； as it passes through the hundred miles of canyon of its waterway； but it accepts the sweepings of vast areas made by its tributaries。 Some of these extend through barren and desolate areas；great stretches of the most forsaken desert lands； where the rains occasionally pour down with deluge…like force。 Cloudbursts and floods are common； for the whole country is high in altitude； with rising peaks； where electric storms play and rage； and the clouds drop； with a sudden sweep； their whole burden of water to the earth beneath。 At other times； the waters are allowed to pour down in torrential rains which quickly deluge the land； and as there are no barriers to hinder or detain； they sweep down the inhospitable slopes to the stream beds； carrying with them all the sand； silt； rock debris； vegetable mould and animal matter that have accumulated since the last storm。 So that while at its source it is the purest river in the world； at its mouth it is the dirtiest and most repulsive。 The Mississippi； with many more miles of length； the Nile； the Amazon； the Yangste…Kiang； the Hoang…Ho； are all far cleaner at their mouths than is this insatiable dragon of the Canyon。
Carrying Power of the River。 This suggests another singularity in which it doubtless reigns supreme。 Probably no river in the world； of its length； has anything like the carrying power of the Colorado within its waters。 Notice that I say 〃within its waters。〃 It is useless for carrying anything on its bosom。 No ships use its waters for beneficent commerce。 Its only carrying power is in the amount of sand and other material it holds in solution； and carries within itself。
Its Incredible Descent。 For it is doubtful whether any river in the world has so rapid a descent from towering mountain heights to its receiving ocean； as has the Colorado。 It falls over four thousand two hundred feet from its source to its mouth； and in less than five hundred miles of its distance it contains five hundred and twenty rapids； falls and cataracts。 A fall or a rapid or a cataract for every mile； and a few over for good measure。 Who can conceive the peril of journeying through such a river？ And until the facts were known； how hopeless to attempt to ascend such a river； as did Alarcon； Ives and Wheeler！
Useless for Commerce。 As already stated； it is the most useless of the large rivers of the world as a carrier of ships of commerce。 No boat； carrying produce of field； mill or mart； has ever passed up or down its course。 No whitewinged schooner or other merchantman has enlivened its course by proudly gliding on its bosom to waiting port； where cargoes are discharged and received。 No thrilling fleet of battleships ever has seen its banks； or ever will； for it is useless； absolutely； irretrievably； God…ordainedly useless for all purposes of commerce； traffic； or communication。
Dangerous and Destructive。 Read the accounts of Powell's trips down its dangerous course； of Alarcon's struggles to ascend its headlong tides； of Ives's and Wheeler's attempts to explore a portion of it； of Cardenas's efforts even to reach its waters from one of its banks； and of the ruthless manner in which it has destroyed the lives of those unfortunate enough to come within its reach。 Then you will see how absolutely useless a river it is。 In this regard the Colorado River is unique。 Most rivers carry beneficent life all along their journey。 They distribute fructifying waters； from their rise to their end in the sea。 Thriving towns and villages line their banks； all surrounded by a fertile farming country。 But not so the Colorado！ It has cut its way through the rocks so fiercely that it is buried a thousand； two thousand； three thousand and even five thousand and more feet below the surrounding country。 It and its tributaries drain away even the water that falls in gentle showers； before it has time to benefit the thirsty land。 Only by the expensive construction of cemented cisterns and occasional dams can the rancher； stockman and miner of the region hoard for his scantest needs enough of this precious fluid。 Even the hotels that are placed upon its brink to afford stopping…places for the curious travelers who wish to see this river and its unique waterway are compelled to haul their trains of water…cars nearly a hundred miles to supply themselves with the water which the Colorado River drains from their very dooryards and empties in reckless neglect into the Gulf of California。
Yields No Electrical Power。 Other rivers throughout California and the West are yielding millions of volts annually of electrical energy； for the lighting and heating of cities； the turning of mill…wheels； and the running of electric cars； but the Colorado； though possessed of a potential energy greater than any ten or twenty of these rivers combined； so far has refused to yield up a single volt。 Again and again engineers have estimated and suggested； but the great facts remain that it is so uncertain； so wild； so impetuous； so sure to rise when unexpected； so sure to fall when relied upon； that； as yet； no one has been found venturesome enough to try to tame and harness its fierce energy。
Waters to be Diverted by a Dam。 Yet in spite of these serious charges I make against the Colorado； it is peculiar in that it is the most useful of the large rivers of the world in another domain。 The United States Reclamation Service has spent millions of the people's money in making it of use。 At Laguna； a few miles above Yuma； it has built a huge dam larger than any similar dam in the worldthat diverts these once turbulent waters into irrigating ditches to convey their life…giving power to thousands upon thousands of acres of desert land。 The Blythe Estate is doing the same thing a hundred or more miles higher up； near Parker； on the Santa Fe； and already towns and settlements are springing up on those desert wastes。 The California Development Company began this work； four miles below Yuma； in 1900； and in four years had converted that great sink of the Colorado Desert into the richly fertile domain now known as the Imperial Valley； where today are many growing towns。
Opportunities for Swimming。 Though the current of the Colorado is so strong； there are times and places where it affords one who is not over…fastidious as to the color of the water； an opportunity for an excellent swim。 But care must be exercised。 At the foot of Bass Trail； there are two or three rocky recesses where one may go in and swim； within the arms of the protecting rocks； without danger。 It is not well to swim in the earlier months of the year； when the water is excessively cold。 Several times in January and February I have been overcome with temptation； and have jumped in 〃merely for the plunge。〃 The sensation is one of being skinned alive； and one plunge is all that one cares for。 Yet on emerging and dressing； how fine one feels after it。 The great melting time of the snows on the mountains is the end of May； June and early July。 It grows warmer in July； and from then on to December one may enjoy it。 In September and October it is generally deliciously warm； and I have gone in half a dozen times a day。 A good swimmer can cross the stream； if he does not lose his head； for the current is powerful； and one is borne down far faster than he imagines； and it is much further across than it seems to be。 Several times； when I have wanted to cross； and there was no boat； I have swam across to the other side； wearing my shirt and trousers and carry