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the grand canyon of arizona-第4章

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lines between Chicago; Los Angeles and San Francisco。

Though surveys had been made years ago from Ash Fork; Williams and Flagstaff; it was left for the Tusayan Development Company of New York; who owned a group of copper mines located twenty miles south of the head of Bright Angel Trail; actually to build the railway part way to the Canyon。 It was later extended to the rim by the Santa Fe; and afterwards practically rebuilt。 The original purpose was to reach the mines referred to and convey the ore to Williams; where the smelter then erected is to be seen on the hillside east of the town。

The promoter of the mines and railway was 〃Bucky〃 O'Neill; a prominent Arizona citizen; at one time mayor of Prescott; who became world…famous by his tragic death during the charge of the Rough Riders at San Juan Hill。

The First Four Miles。 Striking due north; the railway passes over masses of malapais; or lava float; until; four miles out; it crosses Havasu (Cataract) Creek。 If the rains are just over; the rough rocks will be entirely covered and hidden by a gorgeous growth of sunflowers and lupines; the yellows and purples making a carpet that; in the brilliant sunlight; fairly dazzles the eye。 Here and there a band of sheep may be seen; with straggling herds of cattle and horses。 In the winter time it is not unusual to find snow covering the plateau; for it must not be forgotten that it has an elevation of nearly seven thousand feet。 During the early summer; before the rains; it is often barren and desolate。

Yet at all seasons the slopes of Williams Mountain are charming and beautiful。 The tender and vivid tones of the evergreen trees that cover it render it a restful and attractive feature of the landscape。

Havasu Creek。 Havasu Creek flows above ground for several miles; then disappears to make a subterranean stream; which finally emerges in wonderful volume; in a thousand springs; in the heart of Havasu Canyon; just above the village of the Indians of the same name。 Crossing it; four miles from Williams; the railway enters a belt of cedars and junipers; passes Red Lake;a volcanic sink…hole; which; at rare intervals; is filled with water。

Deer and Antelope。 For a dozen miles the road passes through a series of charming parks; where deer and antelope are sometimes seen。 While driving his train through one of these parks; early in December; 1907; S。 O。 Miller; one of the engineers of the Grand Canyon Railway; saw a majestic black…tailed deer running a little ahead of his engine。 Suddenly the beautiful creature turned; tried to cross the track; and was instantly killed。 Stopping the train; Miller got help; and it took four men to lift the dead animal and place it on the engine。 The skin and head were mounted。 The animal is so perfect and royal a specimen that the owner says a thousand dollars could not purchase it from him。

Miller rather enjoys the distinction of being the only known deer hunter of the West who has chased his game and killed it with a locomotive。

Surrounding Mountains。 One should not fail to look back; as the train journeys along; for fine; full views of the Volcanic Mountains;the San Franciscos; Kendricks; Sitgreaves and Williams。 The two former are sharp; pyramidal…shaped masses; towering from nine thousand to twelve thousand feet into the blue; while the two latter are well wooded and rounded; though volcanic;Williams Mountain having seven distinct crests at different altitudes。

When about ten miles out; Mount Floyd; another volcanic pile; rises above the plain on the west。 Two sharp peaks come in sight; and later; long ridges of deep blue stretch away to the north。 These are the Blue Ridge; and are formed of lava which has flowed from Mount Floyd。

Ant…Hills。 To many it is a novel sight to see the ant…hills that dot the plain all the way along。 These tiny creatures build their homes underground; carrying out all the small pieces of rock that are in their way。 By and by they build up quite a mound of these stones; and; it is on these that the Navaho Indians often find the garnets; rubies and peridots they offer for sale。 Around the mounds the ground is stripped bare by the busy ants; who remove every particle of vegetation in a radius of two or three feet。

Desert Rains。 If it is early summer when you ride over this region; do not be deceived by the barrenness of the thirsty country (as you leave the cedars); and the dry; cloudless sky; and imagine that it never rains。 I have been here in the midst of such rain storms as I have rarely experienced elsewhere。 When the showers do fall; they often come with a fullness that is as distressing as is the want of water during the dry season。

Red Butte。 Twenty…nine miles out; near the station of Valle; is the big bridge; some fifty feet high and three hundred feet long; over a branch of the Spring Valley Wash; and here Red Butte becomes a prominent landmark on the right。 This is known to the Havasupai Indians as Hue…ga…da…wi…za; the Mountain of the Clenched Fist; for this is its appearance when seen at certain angles。 It is a remnant of the Permian sandstone that once covered the whole Grand Canyon region; and its brilliant red; when illuminated by the vivid Arizona sun; explains why for so many years it has been a prominent landmark of the plateau。 It stands boldly forth on the eastern edge of what was undoubtedly once a portion of the vast Eocene lake; the drainage way of which helped to cut down the Canyon we are so soon to see。

Interesting stories might be told of Red Butte and its region。 The Havasupais have a tradition that many years ago a large spring of water flowed from near its base; but in the great convulsion of nature which changed the current of the waters of Havasu Creek the spring disappeared; and never has been seen since。 The presence of a number of quaking aspens in the region; however; denotes that water is still there。 It also has been claimed that documents on file in Tucson prove that silver mining was extensively carried on here as early as the year 1650。

Prehistoric Lake。 At the twenty…eighth mile post; we have left the cedars behind; and until we strike Anita junction only a few scraggly; solitary trees are to be seen。 We are on the edge of the great prehistoric lake。 The country is seamed with small; rocky gorges; which we cross。 They are sometimes lined with scrub…brush; and made beautiful by many colored flowers。 All these 〃draws〃 are tributary to Havasu (Cataract) Creek; but it is interesting to remember that most of them convey the drainage water away from the rim of the Grand Canyon until; by the subterranean channel before referred to; the stream is taken back to the Havasu Canyon and soon; deep; deep; deep down; some five thousand feet below the rim; is ejected into the muddy Colorado River。

The First Sight of the Canyon。 A glance out of the right window will now show one a portion of the north wall of the Canyon。 It is a fairly level stretch of wall running east and west; though there is a break in it; and then an uprising curve; as if the crust here had received a lateral thrust strong enough to break and then 〃buckle〃 it up from east to west。

Crossing the Red Horse Wash; known to the Havasupais as Ha…i…ga…sa…jul…ga; the line reaches Anita Junction。 Here a spur three miles long connects the main line with the copper mines of the Anita Consolidated Company; for which the railway originally was built。 The grade of the spur was so engineered that the loaded cars of ore from the mine (when in operation) are brought down by gravity。

Coconino Forest。 A few miles further on; the railway enters a country of pine and juniper; a stately prelude to the majesties and grandeurs of the Kohonino (Coconino) Forest。 Here it seems as if one were suddenly transported to England; and were passing through a succession of landed estates; without; however; finding the accompanying mansions。 Aisles of stately trees; nature planted and grown; yet as perfectly in line as if set with mathematical precision; lead the eye into open glades where deer and antelope move to and fro; and where one looks instinctively for the bold facade of an historic building; or the battlemented towers of some romantic castle。

Arrival at El Tovar。 No
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