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ances； and then watches the yarn climb up； thread by thread； battened down by hand so that the garment will hold water； until the article is finished； artistically designed； and perfectly fitted for its required purpose； he comes to the conclusion that the Hopi weaver； at least； is a skilled artificer。
Hopi Rituals。 The Hopi are a remarkably religious people。 I question whether there is to be found elsewhere in the world so ritualistic a people as they are。 They have ceremoniesall of religious character for every month of the year； and some of them require from eight to sixteen days for their observance。 Their dances are propitiations of the gods they worship； and whose aid they implore。 One of the most noted and world…renowned of their ceremonies is the Snake Dance； and I wish to conclude this chapter with a brief description of this wonderful act； which I have now witnessed thirteen separate times。 It has been woefully misrepresented by careless writers。
The whole ceremony is conducted with a dignity and solemnity that is not surpassed by any Christian observance。
Hopi Mythology Regarding Snake Dance。 It is not a dance； in our sense of the word。 It is a prayer for rain； and of thanksgiving for the blessings of harvest。 Neither is it an act of snake worship。 According to Hopi mythology； the snake and antelope clans； or families； are descended from the union of Tiyo and his brother with two sisters； daughters of the snake mother；Tiyo being the paternal Ancestor of the Snake Clan； and his brother of the Antelope Clan。 The story of Tiyo's visit； using a sealed…up hollow pinion log as a boat； and sailing down the Colorado river through 〃 shipapu〃 to the underworld； is one of the most interesting pieces of aboriginal folk…lore。 It appears elsewhere；* and forms the burden of the sixteen dramatic songs sung in the secrecy of the underground ceremonial kivas of the snake and antelope clans； in the nine days of preliminary ceremonial； which culminate in the open…air public dance。
* See Indians of the Pointed Desert Region。
Antelope Race and Corn Scramble。 There are two other ceremonies connected with the Snake Dance that may be witnessed by all who like。 These are the antelope race and the corn scramble。 The former takes place on the morning of the eighth day before sunrise。 Though apparently a mere test of athletic ability； it is in reality a religious ceremonial。 For centuries； the Hopi lived surrounded by warlike people who preyed upon them。 Being few in number； living in a desert land； and beset by murderous marauders； fleetness of foot and great 〃staying〃 powers while running over the long trails of the sandy deserts became an essential condition of national preservation。 Hence the priests made the cultivation of the bodily powers a matter of religion。 Every youth was compelled to exercise to the utmost。 The result is a fine athletic development。 Each year many great races are run； and two of the chief of these are at the Snake Dance； there being a race on both the eighth and ninth mornings。
At the end of that fierce race across the hot sands and up the steep mesa； the winner exultantly stands before the chief priests。 The lightning bearer then throws the zigzag symbols over him； and rain clouds are pictured at his feet。 Then he is hurried on to the antelope kiva； where another priest gives to him the sacred gourd full of water and a sack full of sacred meal； with certain ceremonial prayer sticks； which； placed and used in his cornfield； ensure to him an extra fine crop at the next harvest。
In the meantime； a number of young men and boys have followed the rest of the racers； bearing in their hands cornstalks； melon vines and fruit。 As soon as they reach the level mesa top； the women and girls dart upon them； and a most good…natured but exciting scuffle takes place。 For five to ten minutes this scramble lasts； and when every corn or vine carrier is rid of his gifts； the play is at an end； and all retire to await the great event of the whole ceremony；the open…air dance； when the deadly reptiles are carried in the mouths of the priests。
Preparation for Snake Dance。 At noon a secret ceremony takes place in the dark recesses of the kiva； viz。： the washing of the elder brothers （as the snakes are called）； which I have fully described in 〃The Indians of the Painted Desert Region。〃 When the afternoon shadows lengthen； every available place in the dance plaza is speedily occupied by the villagers and visitors； who wait the march of the antelope priests。 The photographers present must keep within a certain line。
Arrival of Snake Priests。 After circling in front of the kisi （a cottonwood bower in which the snakes are kept） the antelope priests line up with their faces fronting from the kisi。 There they sing and dance awhile； waiting for the snake priests。 These come from their kiva to the south of the dance plaza； and； as they arrive； all sounds are hushed and all attention concentrated upon them。 They circle before the kisi； and then line up facing the antelope priests。
Appearance of Priests。 Some people say they are hideous； others have said； with me； that the sight is sublime。 If one looks merely at the half…nude bodies； made repulsive by a coating of reddish black paint； with dabs of whitewash in several places； at their faces painted with the reddish black stuff； at the strings of white beads around their necks； and the snake whips in their hands； then indeed it is easy to say that they are hideous。 But if one looks at their faces； he will see intense earnestness； deep solemnity； profound dignity； and unflinching belief in the necessity for and power of the prayer about to be offered。 Then； too； with what simple； trustful bravery they handle the snakes； when that part of the ceremony comes！ They know the danger； no one more so。 Indeed； if a priest is afraid； he is not allowed to participate。 Not only would his fear prevent his own proper worship； but it would interfere with that of his comrades。
Variety of Snakes。 There were few snakes at Oraibi； the year I last saw the dance there； but those they had were active and vicious。 There were several rattlers； some red racers； and a few bull snakes。 The light was good； and several first…class photographs were made which actually show the snakes in the mouths of the priests。 At the Snake Dance in the other villages； the priest swings the snake out of his mouth； and allows it to fall。 Here； I noticed that every snake was gently placed upon the ground by the priest who had been carrying it in his mouth。 The antelope men never leave their line； during the handling of the snakes。 They continue to sing during the whole performance。
Purification of Priests。 While waiting for the priests to return； after taking the snakes into the valley； I learned of several slight changes； owing to changed circumstances。 The rain had made numerous small pools at the top of the mesa。 The priests； in returning； divested themselves of all their ceremonial paraphernalia； and washed the paint from their bodies； before returning to the kiva and drinking the emetic。 Generally； they have gone to their homes at Oraibi or at Walpi； have had the women bring water to the west side of the mesa； and there washed themselves。
CHAPTER XX。 An Historic Trail Across The Grand Canyon Country
The Old Hopi Trail。 One of the most noted aboriginal trails in the western United States； is the old Hopi （generally called Moki） trail； leading from the seven villages of the Hopi and their agricultural offshoot； Moenkopi； to the Canyon of the Havasupais。 This was the trail followed by Lieut。 Frank Hamilton Cushingthe noted ethnologist when he visited these Kuhne kiwes while he was living at the interesting pueblo of Zuni； in New Mexico。 I have made the whole trip from Hopiland to the Havasupais and back twice； and have ridden for many years over small portions of the trail。 It is intimately connected with the history of two of the people seen most at the Canyon。 According to one of the Havasupai legends； the Hopis and Havasupais are descended from twin brothers。 Hence they have always been friendly and have traded continuously the products of their own manufacture。 The Hopis exchange their horses； sheep； a