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or oval； with filleted border and scalloped edges； each plate weighing from two to four ounces。 These are punctured in the center； or a small band is soldered to the back； to admit of their being threaded upon a long and narrow belt of leather； the ends of which are fastened with a buckle。 Both men and women wear these； and they are highly prized as ornaments by both sexes。 The necklaces are equally in vogue； the designs being principally hollow beads； crosses； and ornaments representing pomegranate blossoms。 The silver bridle is also an object of great esteem。 It is made of curiously designed； heavy clasps of silver； fastened upon leather； with numberless buttons shaped from coins。 Many of these weigh not less than fifteen ounces； and some as high as forty； hence their value can be readily estimated。
CHAPTER XIX。 The Hopis And Their Snake Dance
A Hopi Religious Rite。 Interesting among Indians； because of their unique houses on the summits of high mesas； reached only by precipitous trails； the Hopi of northern Arizona always have possessed peculiar fascination on account of their thrilling religious rite； known as the Snake Dance； an account of which follows。*
* This Sacred Dance and the life of the Hopi Indians is more fully set out in the author's larger work 〃The Indians of the Painted Desert Region〃。
The Painted Desert。 The region they live in； named the Province of Tusayan by the Spanish conquistadores； three hundred and fifty years ago； is a region of color。 The rocks of which the mesas are built； the sand of the desert； the peculiarly carved buttes which abound on every hand； are all strikingly colored； with such a variety of hues and tints that one does not wonder at the namethe Painted Desertwhich is applied to the country through which we must travel to reach Hopiland。
A Saddle Trip from El Tovar。 The traveler who wishes to visit this fascinating and unique region can arrange for full equipment at El Tovar。 The trip will be a saddle one and all outfits will have to be transported on pack burros。
The Old Hopi Trail。 The road followed is practically the line of the old Hopi trail。 On the way out； the interested traveler may visit Grand View Point and Hotel； Hance's Old Camp and Trail； the Red Canyon Trail； Moran's； and all the other salient points at the eastern end of the Grand Canyon。 Especially should he stand on faraway Navaho Point； or Desert View。 This is the last of the promontories before the rim of the Canyon turns sharply to the north。 Below it； a vast amphitheatre is opened out with more precipitous walls than at any other part of the Canyon。 The sweep of the river； the mouth of Marble Canyon； the superlative richness of coloring at this point； combined with the unequalled views of the Painted Desert； which lies to the right； or east； afford a place of varied delight； scarce found elsewhere on the whole Canyon rim。
Hopi Cornfields。 Crossing the Little Colorado River at the Tanner Crossing； Moenkopi is visited； and then a day's ride of forty miles over the Painted Desert brings one to the cornfields of the Hopi； as properly they should be called。 For years； they have been known as the Moki； a term of reproach applied in derision by the Navahos。 These cornfields are a wonderful monument to the thrift of the Hopi。 White men would have starved to death in the place； before they would have dreamed of planting corn in such an inhospitable…looking soil。 No springs or streams sufficient to irrigate with； unversed in digging wells and pumping water to the surface； one would have thought an ignorant Indian would have looked elsewhere before planting his corn in such a place。 But the Indian is not so ignorant。 His life； from the cradle to the grave； is one of close observation。 His very existence depends upon its exercise。 He soon discovered； therefore； that there was a natural subsoil irrigation in certain parts of this desert； where his corn would grow。 And grow it does； most wonderfully。 Sometimes water is scarce； then the crop decreases； but generally a good crop may be relied upon。 To hoe his cornfield； a Hopi will often run over the desert forty； fifty； sixty； and even eighty miles in a day。 Sometimes； when the field is near by； the Hopi will ride on his burro。 These cunning creatures are almost a necessity of Indian life。 The streets would seem lonely without them。 It will be noticed occasionally that one of these animals has lost part of his left ear。 This is proof that he is possessed of kleptomaniac proclivities。 If a burro is found stealing corn； he is sentenced to have part of his ear cut off。
Oraibi。 On one of these burros we ride up the steep trail that brings us to the westernmost village of the Hopi； Oraibi。 It is perched high on the mesa top； several hundred feet above the valley； and the various trails are steep and rugged。 Some of them are sheer climbs； up which no animal other than man can go。 There are six other villages； three of them ten miles； and the other three about twenty miles； to the east of Oraibi。 They； also； are perched upon high mesas； which thrust themselves； like long fingers； into the sandy desert。 On the middle mesa are Shungopavi； Mashongnovi and Shipaulovi； while on the eastern mesa are Walpi； Sichomovi and Hano。
Sandstone Houses。 All the houses are built of rude pieces of sandstone； cemented with mud。 Steps are made of larger slabs of stone； and often the only means of access is by long ladders； the poles of which tower high above the buildings； and give a singularly picturesque aspect to the village。 In the olden days； there were neither doors nor windows in the first story of the houses。 They were built so purposely； since they must serve for fortresses as well as homes。
Hopi Wafer。 Bread。 One is often likely to find a woman engaged in making piki。 Piki is a wafer bread； peculiar to the Hopis。 It is finer than the finest tortilla of the Mexican； or oatcake of the Scotch。 No biscuit maker in America or England can make a cracker one…half so thin。 The thinnest cracker is thick compared with piki； and yet the Hopi make it with marvelous dexterity。 Cornmeal batter in a crude earthenware bowl； is the material； a smooth； flat stone； under which a brisk fire is kept burning； is the instrument； and the woman's quick fingers； spreading a thin layer of the batter over the stone； perform the operation。 It looks so easy。 A lady of one of my parties tried it once； and failed。 My cook； a stalwart Kansas City man； knew he would not fail。 And he didn't。 He had four of the best…blistered fingers I have seen in a long time。 But the Hopi woman merely greases the stone； dips her fingers into the batter； carries them lightly and carelessly over the heated surfaces； and； in a moment； strips the already baked sheet from the stone。 When several are baked； she folds them over and over until they are about the size of an elongated shredded wheat biscuit。
Hopi Women as Builders。 It is a reversal of our conception of things to see the 〃gentler sex 〃 engaged in building a house； as is often the case in Hopiland。 Yet to the Hopi there is nothing strange in this scene； for the woman； and not the man； is the owner of the house。 Hence； the Hopi reasons； why should she not build it？ It is hers； so let her make it； and she does。 She uses no spirit…level； no plumb line； no square； no saw； and yet she makes a creditable house； fairly square and plumb； warm and cosy in winter； and cool and comfortable in summer。 The mud of the winter's watercourses is used as mortar； and the pieces of disintegrated sandstone； that abound on the mesa tops； form the building material。
Men Who Weave and Knit。 In accordance with Hopi logic； the antithesis of the woman house…builders is to be seen daily in the men who are engaged in weaving the women's garments； men； also； knit the stockings； and follow other so…called feminine occupations。 There is nothing incongruous in these things to them。 They are part of 〃the way of the old；〃 handed down to them by their forefathers。
Hopi Method of Weaving。 To watch a weaver at work is to acquire a new respect for Indians。 As one sees the crude； home…made appliances； and then watches the yarn climb up； thread by thread； battened down by hand so that the garme