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Mr。 Bass has an excellent general knowledge of the right direction but he has had to wander to and fro in his desire to find water and dare not leave us； so we have to accompany him in his searches。 The result is we cannot reach Kanab Unats to…night。 We go up one very picturesque part of the trail where a deep gulch lies on the right filled with old pine trees and many fallen ones； a true specimen of the primeval forest。 We see a small band of cattle grazing。 After luncheon I attempt to walk alone in the forest and immediately lose my sense of direction。 After some yelling on my part the men come to my rescue。 We start on again； the doctor putting the saddle on Belshazzar for me。 When I dismount； the result of unskilled effort appears； for； as soon as I throw my weight over to the left； the saddle turns and I am dumped upon the ground。 We camp at an altitude of eight thousand feet； short of water。
Short of Water。 〃Thursday； Sept。 5； 1901。 Near Kanab Unats。 6 A。 M。 Very cold。 Breakfast is prepared。 I am allowed two tablespoonfuls of water for toilet purposes。 I help a little with the cooking。 We are to a thick wood。 It is a fine； clear； sunny day； but a chilling wind is blowing。
Off for Water。 〃We make a late start； and go on to Kanab Unats where we expect to find water。 We arrive there about ten。 Soon afterwards three cattlemen come by。 A conference with them is held。 They talk doubtfully about water； but tell where they think it may be found。 They are much surprised to hear that I have crossed the Canyon。 With their consent I kodak them。 After they depart Mr。 Bass and Mr。 James start off for water； Mr。 Bass with one horse and all the canteens to a spring he knows of where fine water is to be had； and Mr。 James with all the animals to a place where water fit for stock may be found。 They both return in about two hours； pack the animals； and we start again about 3：20 P。M。 for Point Sublime。 We go through several grassy； well…wooded ravines； very nearly on a level； through much fallen timber and thickets。 Then we cross several of them。 I scramble down off Belshazzar and down a very steep hill。 Mount again and go on by myself； zigzagging up a steep hill。 This is mostly through an oak thicket without a trail。 Over another ravine and I am sure now we are near the end of our journey。 Up another slight ascent and we come in sight of the Canyon。 We have left the tall trees and the thick grass； and now have only mesquites； cedars； yucca and cactus。 But we have a good trail。
On Point Sublime。 〃At last we are on the Point itself。 So ardently desired； and with only an hour of daylight left； we begin to study the wonderful panorama。 I am photographed rounding up the burros。 I am given a sheltered place under a juniper tree for my bed； and make an arrangement with my canvas to keep off the wind。 A very comfortable bed。 This Point runs out far into the chasm； is narrow for a considerable distance； sides very precipitous and the edges describing a very irregular line。 Very near the extreme end is a clump of cedars； with trunks and lower branches so densely matted together as to form a good shelter on two sides from the wind （which blows furiously）。 It is in this shelter that I place my bed； making with my canvas a protection against the wind on the third side so that my sleeping place is as cozy and warm as can be。
〃Friday； Sept。 6； 1901。 At Point Sublime。 I sleep well and wake refreshed。 Many photographs are taken。 The men go to explore another point not far off and I stay in camp。 I rest as well as I can in the face of such a stupendous spectacle。 Dutton's descriptions are wonderfully vivid and accurateyet words； do not convey ideas to those whose imagination is not large enough to realize the full meaning of the words。
On the Return。 〃We start on the return at eleven o'clock having spent about seventeen hours on the Point。 At first we follow the trail by which we came。 Then our leader disregards the trail and makes our course in a more direct line。 We go over ridges； some of them terribly steep。 We go through several lovely valleys with the ridges that overlook the canyon on our left。 The air is still and cool down where we are； but we can see the tops of the trees that show above the ridges tossed about in a violent wind and can hear its roaring through the forest。 We camp about three…quarters of a mile from a spring； and by orders I sleep under a tree in company with many beetles。 It is very cold。 Camp…fire is comforting。
Into the Canyon Again。 〃Saturday； Sept。 7； 1901。 We leave camp at 8：20。 I put out fire while men are packing。 Find track of small five…toed animal on the trail。 We go by cattle…trails a short cut to Swamp Point through the forest； over ridges； through thickets and some of the grassy valleys。 Out on Swamp Point again I am shown Bass Camp on the south rim。 It is scarcely discernible even with glasses； the distance is so vast。 We all walk down the steep descent from this Point and make quick time to the place where we camped Sept。 3。 We descend one thousand nine hundred feet in one hour and twenty minutes。 After lunch； the men then cache much of the remaining provisions and cooking outfit for future use； and we go on riding as fast as possible down the dry bed of the stream。 Then out of this； through a narrow canyon； past the gray…rock walls and gulch with black cave at bottom and slide in the talus above； over the fertile plateau； long descent on foot； where as I zigzag I see the men and the burros what seem to be hundreds of feet below。
〃On down another dry stream bed； many stony descents in a shut…in canyon。 Out of this into more open country； but over ridges； up and down。 We come down to that part of the trail which I feared most in daylight and now we have only the starlight to enable us to descend。 Mr。 Bass takes me in charge and Mr。 James goes up over the ridges to round up the burros which have been left to their own devices。 A torch of sage…brush is lighted to find the trail。 At last we reach the bottom。 The men throw some blankets on the ground for me and I fall upon them。 They go down to the Shinumo； which is only a few yards away； prepare supper and bring a cup of hot coffee for me。 I return with them； make my bed； eat a hearty supper and then fall asleep with the roar of the Shinumo in my ears。 My bed is comfortable and I have a feeling of perfect safety and confidence。
Watermelons in the Canyon。 〃Sunday； Sept。 8； 1901。 We are on the Shinumo； and only half an hour's ride above the camp。 What a beautiful stream it is； cataracts； still reaches； rapids； sandy shoals； deep pools； and the water so pure； blue and clear。 We cross and re…cross many times； through thickets of willow and mesquite。 I am many times scratched and my hat is forcibly snatched from my head。 At camp I feed watermelon rinds to Belshazzar who receives them as gratefully as I did the melons。 How strange to find them growing here；so ripe； rich and delicious。 I feel very weary but deeply regret having to leave this lovely place。 We start for the river。 When the others arrive the packs； etc。； are taken across in three loads。 The four of us go over in the last load。 Scramble up the Archaean by myself and sit in the shade； near the shelter tent； until I am put on the burro Joe and started off with the doctor。
Back at Bass Camp。 〃Dad had brought the burros here to receive us； all the animals we had ridden to Point Sublime having been left on the north side。 At Bed Rock Camp we all have lunch； and then at 4：00； the others with the burros having gone on ahead； we follow。 I remain on my burro all the way up； save at three places； where Mr。 James deems it best for me to dismount。 At last； we make the final ascent； I see the tent above my head； then the roof of the house at Bass Camp； and in another moment or two the most memorable and wonderful trip of my life is over。〃
CHAPTER XIII。 How The Canyon Was Formed*
* This chapter； while in manuscript； was read by Dr。 Charles D。 Walcott； Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution and formerly Director of the United States Geological Survey； and also by Professor Matthis； of the Survey。 It may therefore be accepted as a fairly accurate and authoritative presentation of the geologic