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； buttes and towers that make the view from El Tovar and Grand View Points so interesting。 Looking westward； the whole aspect changes； so markedly； indeed； that one scarcely can believe it to be the same Canyon。 Hence the appropriateness of the name。 At the extreme end of this plateau； a detached rocky pillar stands peering down into the deepest recesses of the Inner Gorge。 This bears the name Dick Pillar； from Robert Dick； the baker…geologist of Thurso； Scotland； who gave such material assistance to Hugh Miller in his studies of the Old Red Sandstone。
Huxley Terrace。 Huxley Terrace is the center plateau。 At its end is an eroded mass of red sandstone； to which the name of the noted naturalist and evolutionist； Wallace； has been attached。 Still nearer the end； and belonging to the marble wall； is a pagoda named Tyndall Dome。
Spencer Terrace。 Spencer Terrace is the most western of the plateaus； and is where the Mystic Spring used to be； which for many years gave its name to Bass's Trailthe Mystic Spring Trail。
These three plateaus vary in width from a quarter of a mile to over a mile wide； they are dotted with what seem to be patches of grass； but which in reality are juniper and pinion trees from ten to forty feet in height。
Terraces of the Explorers。 About a quarter of a mile to the west of Bass Camp is the amphitheatre in which my earlier book； 〃In and Around the Grand Canyon；〃 and a large part of the present book were written。 From this restful spot I have looked out thousands of times across the great bend of the river and Garnet Canyon to the five terraces named after the early…day Spanish explorers； Marcos； De Vaca； Tovar； Alarcon； and Garces。
Points of the Explorers。 To the west stands out Chemehuevi Point； six thousand six hundred and twenty…six feet； while across the river； terminating Powell Plateau； are Wheeler Point； six thousand seven hundred and fifty feet； and just beyond it Ives Point； six thousand six hundred feet。
To the north of Ives Point； but hidden from view； are Beale Point； six thousand six hundred and ninety…five feet； Thompson Point； six thousand seven hundred and thirty feet； and Newberry Point； six thousand seven hundred and fifty feet； all named after early Arizona explorers and geologists。
Conquistadore Aisle and Steamboat Mountain。 The dark chasm of the river itself； where it moves almost due west； has been named Conquistadore Aisle； in honor of the men whose names are attached to the terraces above。 Here the river again curves； and its course is seen to be to the northeast； as if doubling behind Powell Plateau。 It then turns back upon itself； and goes to the southwest。 If the conditions are favorable； one may see； to the left of Ives Point； a majestic butte； detached from the further wall of the Canyon； and generally known as Steamboat Mountain。 It is an object of great interest； when seen from the saddle on the north rim by those who have crossed the Canyon and are journeying to Point Sublime。
The Scenic Divide。 Now let the observer compare the view to the left with that which he has carefully examined on the right。 There； in the latter view； are towers and buttes； detached monuments； and a perfect bewilderment of scenic features； here； to the left； save for the aisles； terraces and further wall； there is little to attract attention。 The view； comparatively； is uninteresting。 The reason for this is clear。 The granite of the Inner Gorge has disappeared。 Here is the Scenic Divide； the natural line of demarcation between two distinctive portions of the Canyon； the scenery of which is markedly diverse。 Where the granite is in evidence； the stratified rocks resting upon it are carved into varied forms： Where the river flows through the stratified rocks； and no granite appears； there are few or no buttes； no towers； no monuments。 Nowhere else； in the accessible portions of the Canyon； is this difference seen； for at Grand View； the head of the old Hance Trail； the Red Canyon Trail； Boucher's and the Bright Angel Trails； the outlooks are over areas where the granite has thrust itself out of the bowels of the earth。
Bass's Cable Crossing。 The ride down Bass's Trail is an interesting one； passing on the way two prehistoric water…pockets and several cliff…dwellings。 On the plateau below； forty miles of trail riding； almost on the level； may be indulged in； before one descends the narrow Canyon to Bed Rock Camp and the river。 Here a ferry and cable crossing have been established； the former for use during low water； while； after the flood season begins； the latter enables travelers and stock to make a safe passage in the cage suspended from the cable。
CHAPTER XII。 Across The Grand Canyon To Point Sublime
Point Sublime。 Point Sublime is one of the most important promontories on the north rim。 It was here that the geologist…poet； Clarence Dutton； wrote many of his descriptions of Canyon scenery。 He says： 〃The supreme views are to be obtained at the extremities of the long promontories； which jut out between the recesses far into the gulf。 Sitting upon the edge we contemplate the most sublime and awe…inspiring spectacle in the world。 The length of canyon revealed clearly and in detail at Point Sublime is about twenty…five miles in each direction。 Towards the northwest the vista terminates behind the projecting mass of Powell's Plateau。 But again to the westward may be seen the crests of the upper walls reaching through the Kanab and Uinkaret Plateaus； and finally disappearing in the haze above Seventy…five miles away。
〃The space under immediate view from our standpoint； fifty miles long and ten to twelve wide； is thronged with a great multitude of objects so vast in size； so bold and majestic in form； so infinite in their details； that as the truth gradually reveals itself to the perceptions； it arouses the strongest emotions。〃
Several times I had started to Point Sublime； but there were difficulties about the trail。 Sometime before 1900； Mr。 Bass completed a trail on the north side of the river； up under the shoulders of Powell Plateau and out to the desired location。
Starting for Point Sublime。 In August； 1901； a party was arranged； consisting of Mrs。 J。 B。 Gayler； of Ridgewood； New Jersey； a learned doctor from St。 Louis； Mr。 Bass and myself。 On Sunday； September 1st； after loading three pack animals with provisions and bedding needed for the trip； we set out down the trail； headed for Point Sublime。 To the ferry nothing of particular interest occurred。
From this point on I shall use the diary of Mrs。 Gayler as the basis of my descriptions； adding thereto or condensing when necessary。 It is written in the present tense； which will be preserved throughout。
At the River。 She says： 〃The sight of the river rouses me to a considerable pitch of enthusiasm。 How dirty and muddy a river it is； and how it roars and rages。 There is a great rapid a quarter of a mile above where we cross。 While we are to cross in still water； the current is strong and bears one on to the worst rapid in the whole river。 It is named Stanton Rapid； for at that point one of his boats was dashed to splinters。 He numbered it No。 241。
〃We part with our animals near a little shelter at the top of the Archaean rocks and scramble down a slippery trail。
Crossing the River。 〃With some trepidation I enter the boat； a few articles are thrown in； Dad takes the oars； some one pushes us off and we are fairly on the stream。 The boat soon strikes the sandy landing on the other side； a considerable distance below； and Dad hands me out with care and courtesy。 I occupy myself looking at the structure of the rocks。 There are many curious faults and flexures。 The river very strange； walls black； gloomy and precipitous。 The landing on the south side was solid rock； here a bit of sandy beach between bars of rock。 The Doctor is already here。 He makes a fire of driftwood near the wall of black rock under which is the stretch of sand。 I pick out my sleeping place and begin the making of my bed。
〃James； Bass and Dad go back and forth across the river many times to bring our stuff； and daylight is entirely gone long before the job is completed。
Supper on the Sand。 〃I try to help in carrying things up the bank b