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the grand canyon of arizona-第19章

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and more open country is reached。

Over the Plateau。 From this point; the ride is diversified。 There are no steep hills; but the road aims directly for its objective point; taking the visitor through growths of pinion;from which the Indians gather the delicious pine nuts;juniper;from the crushed berries of which they make a sweet and refreshing drink;and over levels where rich grama grass grows side by side with the cactus; the amole and the yucca; brightened and vivified by the Indian paintbrush; sunflowers; lupines and scores of other gorgeously colored flowers。

Midway between Bass Station and Bass Camp; ten miles each way; the road passes a United States Geological Survey monument; which records the fact that here the plateau is six thousand three hundred and seventy…two feet above sea level。

The Surrounding Mountains。 On the journey; glimpses are had of the San Francisco peaks; and Mounts Sitgreaves; Kendricks; and Floyd; while; in the far…away west and south; the blue ridges of the plateau; descending to the lower levels; are clearly discernible。 To the north and west; Mounts Emma and Trumbull and other peaks of the Uinkarets appear like deep blue clouds on the horizon。 They lie on the further side of the Canyon; and are seen more distinctly from Bass Camp。

Hotouta Amphitheatre。 When fifteen miles from El Tovar; the first gaze into the Canyon is afforded at Hotouta Amphitheatre; a deep indentation in the walls of the south rim。 The road here runs close to the rim。 This amphitheatre receives its name from Hotouta; the son of Navaho; the last great Havasupai chief。 Hotouta was an enlightened Indian; friendly to the better class of whites; clear…headed and honorable in his dealings with them。

The Cisterns。 Thence to Bass Camp the drive is entirely through pinions and junipers。 About a mile before the destination is reached; the road passes 〃The Cisterns;〃 where the horses are watered。

Bass Camp。 Bass Camp consists of one small central building; containing a dining…room; sitting…room; kitchen and several bedrooms。 Around are tent…houses and tents for the further accommodation of guests; with stable and saddle…house; etc。 Almost immediately in front of the main building the trail begins。

Powell Plateau and Dutton Point。 Taking a seat at the head of the trail; let us now give our undivided attention to the scene spread out before us。 The predominating feature is the great uplift of the opposite wall; and the aggressiveness of its salient promontory。 Here is a break in the continuity of the wall of the Kaibab Plateau。 This break affords an immediate view of the highest portions of the Canyon's walls。 To the right of the break is the Kaibab Plateau; its highest portion being eight thousand three hundred feet above sea level。 To the left is Powell Plateau; seven thousand six hundred and fifty feet elevation。 The great point; nearest to us; was named Dutton Point; after the poet…geologist; whose monograph on the Canyon will ever be a memorial to his love of the place; his scientific accuracy of observation; and his poetic eloquence of description。 It is between Kaibab and Powell Plateaus that Bass's Trail to Point Sublime climbs its circuitous and winding way;this portion being called 〃The Saddle。〃 The dark growths which crown the plateaus are in reality pine trees; which; on the north rim of the Canyon; attain immense size。 They; and lesser tree growths; descend to the bottom of the second mass of talus。

The Rocks of the North Wall。 The rock bands on the opposite walls; a large part of the way down; are like those found on the same north wall seen from El Tovar。 First there is the band of cherty limestone; from which a sloped talus leads to the creamy sugary sandstone。 Immediately below this begins the 〃red;〃 which descends in strata of varying width and color down to a rather narrow…appearing slope of red talus; which leads the eye to the widest member of all the Grand Canyon strata。 This is the so…called red…wall limestone。 All these strata; from the rim down; are said to be in the Upper and Lower Carboniferous Systems。

Below this majestic wall appear the variegated strata of the Cambrian; in grays; buffs; olives; greens and yellows。

The Tilts。 Now we see a large exposure of the nonconformable strata; which; on account of their very markedly tilted condition; have been named 〃The Tilts。〃 Below this is found the Archaean rock。

It is hard for any but the well…trained observer to realize that practically the same conditions that exist on the north wall; exist on the south wall; directly under his feet; except that the Algonkian is absent。 The talus shuts off the view; and it seems impossible that there can be such great precipice walls as the opposite mural face reveals。 It is not as high; however; on this side as it is on the other; by fully one thousand six hundred and fifty feet。 The difference is caused by the great upthrust in the earth's crust; which detached Powell's Plateau from the Kaibab Plateau。

One may approximately estimate the various strata of the wall of the Kaibab as follows:

Colorado River; say。 。 。 2400 feet above sea level Archaean 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 1000 〃 thick Algonkian 。 。 。 。 。 。 。  1100 〃 〃 Cambrian 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 1000 〃 〃 Carboniferous 。 。 。 。 。  2750 〃 〃                 … Total level above sea。 。 8250

Bass Tomb or Holy Grail Temple。 The great north wall is not featureless。 There are a number of architectural forms; of wonderfully varied shape; resting upon bases of massive solidity。 The most striking of these is a squarebased monumental mass;Holy Grail Temple; formerly Bass Tomb;on which rests a well…shaped pyramid; crowned with a red and white circular shaft。 The whole butte is well proportioned; having a base of sixteen square miles; and rising to a height of six thousand seven hundred and ten feet。

King Arthur Castle。 Slightly to the east of it is another majestic butte; inferior only in size。 The crowning shaft is missing here; but a castellated structure of red rock suitably dominates it。 It bears the name King Arthur Castle; and is seven thousand three hundred and fifteen feet elevation。

Guinevere Castle。 Still further to the east a winding ridge of rock; standing over one of the many oblique gorges within the main gorge; leads up to a third dominating figure of rock sculpture。 This is Guinevere Castle; seven thousand two hundred and fifty…five feet。

Huethawali。 Now let the eye rest upon the objects immediately before it; and more in the center of the Canyon。 The chief object is an almost detached mountain; crowned with irregular cross…bedded layers of white sandstone。 The Indians call this mountain Hue…tha…wa…li; (the final 〃i〃 being pronounced as 〃e;〃) which signifies White Rock Mountain。 This is now the name they give to Bass Camp; and the Havasupais at El Tovar; who are starting for their Canyon home; will often remark: 〃We go Huethawali tonight。〃 Its elevation is six thousand two hundred and eighty feet。

Darwin Plateau。 The main plateau before us is named Darwin Plateau; after the learned evolutionist。 Take this plateau as a rude and misshapen hand; imagine the thumb and little finger gone; and it will be seen that the other three fingers radiate from Darwin Plateau in the shape of three irregularly contoured; but fairly level plateaus; Huethawali resting like a great wart upon the base of the middle one of the three。 To these plateaus have been given the following names: the one to the right is Grand Scenic Divide; the middle one is named Huxley Terrace; and the one to the left (the west) is Spencer Terrace。

For a few moments let us look at each of these plateaus; and grasp such features as the eyes may observe。

Grand Scenic Divide and Dick Pillar。 Grand Scenic Divide was so named because it is the point where the granite of the Inner Gorge disappears from the Grand Canyon; and this disappearance makes as vast and wonderful a difference in the Canyon scenery as it is possible to find in its whole two hundred and seventeen miles of length。 To the right of the Divide; looking eastward; where the granite is still in evidence; one can see the temples; buttes and towers that make the view from El Tovar and Grand View Points so interesting。 Looking w
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