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The¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡of¡¡Arizona£º¡¡How¡¡to¡¡See¡¡It

by¡¡George¡¡Wharton¡¡James




Revised¡¡Edition

Boston£º¡¡Little£»¡¡Brown£»¡¡and¡¡Company

Kansas¡¡City£º¡¡Fred¡¡Harvey

1912


PREFACE¡¡TO¡¡REVISED¡¡EDITION

Because¡¡of¡¡the¡¡completion¡¡of¡¡a¡¡new¡¡driveway¡¡along¡¡the¡¡Rim¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon£»¡¡and¡¡of¡¡a¡¡new¡¡trail¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Colorado¡¡River£»¡¡a¡¡second¡¡edition¡¡of¡¡this¡¡book¡¡is¡¡deemed¡¡necessary¡£

These¡¡improvements£»¡¡which¡¡have¡¡recently¡¡been¡¡made¡¡by¡¡the¡¡Santa¡¡Fe¡¡Railway£»¡¡are¡¡known¡¡as¡¡Hermit¡¡Rim¡¡Road¡¡and¡¡Hermit¡¡Trail¡£¡¡The¡¡first£»¡¡said¡¡to¡¡be¡¡the¡¡most¡¡unique¡¡road¡¡in¡¡the¡¡world£»¡¡is¡¡nine¡¡miles¡¡long¡¡on¡¡the¡¡brink¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Canyon£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡other£»¡¡a¡¡wide¡¡and¡¡safe¡¡pathway¡¡down¡¡the¡¡south¡¡wall¡£

The¡¡contents¡¡of¡¡the¡¡volume¡¡has¡¡been¡¡revised£»¡¡and¡¡descriptions¡¡of¡¡Hermit¡¡Rim¡¡Road¡¡and¡¡Hermit¡¡Trail¡¡have¡¡been¡¡added¡£¡¡There¡¡are¡¡also¡¡new¡¡portions¡¡describing¡¡the¡¡drives¡¡and¡¡trips¡¡that¡¡may¡¡be¡¡taken¡¡through¡¡the¡¡forest¡¡on¡¡the¡¡Rim¡¡and¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Canyon¡¡itself£»¡¡each¡¡carefully¡¡planned¡¡so¡¡that¡¡the¡¡traveler¡¡may¡¡devote¡¡to¡¡sightseeing¡¡whatever¡¡amount¡¡of¡¡time¡¡he¡¡desires¡£

With¡¡these¡¡additions¡¡and¡¡alterations£»¡¡the¡¡original¡¡plan¡¡to¡¡provide¡¡a¡¡convenient¡¡handbook¡¡for¡¡all¡¡travelers¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡is¡¡more¡¡complete¡£




FOREWORD

Upwards¡¡of¡¡ten¡¡years¡¡ago¡¡I¡¡sat¡¡on¡¡the¡¡south¡¡rim¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡and¡¡wrote¡¡¡¨In¡¡and¡¡Around¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡£¡¨¡¡In¡¡that¡¡book¡¡I¡¡included¡¡much¡¡that¡¡more¡¡than¡¡a¡¡decade¡¡of¡¡wandering¡¡up¡¡and¡¡down¡¡the¡¡trails¡¡of¡¡this¡¡great¡¡abyss¡¡had¡¡taught¡¡me¡£¡¡At¡¡that¡¡time¡¡the¡¡only¡¡accommodations¡¡for¡¡sightseers¡¡were¡¡stage¡¡lines¡¡or¡¡private¡¡conveyance¡¡from¡¡Flagstaff¡¡and¡¡Ash¡¡Fork£»¡¡and£»¡¡on¡¡arrival¡¡at¡¡the¡¡Canyon£»¡¡the¡¡crude¡¡hotel¡­camps¡¡at¡¡Hance's£»¡¡Grand¡¡View£»¡¡Bright¡¡Angel£»¡¡and¡¡Bass's¡£¡¡The¡¡railway¡¡north¡¡from¡¡Williams¡¡was¡¡being¡¡built¡£¡¡Everything¡¡was¡¡crude¡¡and¡¡primitive¡£

Now¡¡the¡¡railway¡¡is¡¡completed¡¡and¡¡has¡¡become¡¡an¡¡integral¡¡part¡¡of¡¡the¡¡great¡¡Santa¡¡Fe¡¡System£»¡¡with¡¡at¡¡least¡¡two¡¡trains¡¡a¡¡day¡¡each¡¡way¡¡carrying¡¡Pullman¡¡sleepers£»¡¡chair¡¡cars¡¡and¡¡coaches¡£¡¡At¡¡Bright¡¡Angel£»¡¡where¡¡the¡¡railway¡¡deposits¡¡its¡¡passengers¡¡at¡¡the¡¡rim¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Canyon£»¡¡stands¡¡El¡¡Tovar¡¡Hotel£»¡¡erected¡¡by¡¡the¡¡railway¡¡company¡¡at¡¡a¡¡cost¡¡of¡¡over¡¡a¡¡quarter¡¡of¡¡a¡¡million¡¡dollars£»¡¡which¡¡is¡¡equipped¡¡and¡¡conducted¡¡by¡¡Fred¡¡Harvey¡£¡¡Yet¡¡El¡¡Tovar¡¡is¡¡more¡¡like¡¡a¡¡country¡¡club¡¡than¡¡a¡¡hotel£»¡¡in¡¡many¡¡respects£»¡¡and£»¡¡to¡¡that¡¡extent£»¡¡is¡¡better¡£

Hence¡¡while¡¡nothing¡¡in¡¡the¡¡canyon¡¡itself¡¡has¡¡changed£»¡¡and¡¡while¡¡my¡¡book£»¡¡¡¨In¡¡and¡¡Around¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon£»¡¨¡¡is¡¡still¡¡as¡¡helpful¡¡to¡¡the¡¡traveler¡¡and¡¡general¡¡reader¡¡as¡¡ever£»¡¡there¡¡has¡¡been¡¡a¡¡growing¡¡demand¡¡for¡¡a¡¡new¡¡book¡¡which¡¡should¡¡give¡¡the¡¡information¡¡needed¡¡by¡¡the¡¡traveler¡¡who¡¡comes¡¡under¡¡the¡¡new¡¡conditions£»¡¡telling¡¡him¡¡how¡¡he¡¡may¡¡best¡¡avail¡¡himself¡¡of¡¡them¡£¡¡This¡¡book¡¡is¡¡written¡¡to¡¡meet¡¡this¡¡demand¡£¡¡It¡¡therefore¡¡partakes¡¡more¡¡of¡¡the¡¡character¡¡of¡¡a¡¡guide¡¡book¡¡than¡¡the¡¡former¡¡volume£»¡¡so¡¡it¡¡has¡¡been¡¡decided¡¡to¡¡make¡¡it¡¡lighter¡¡in¡¡weight¡¡and¡¡handier¡¡in¡¡form£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡it¡¡can¡¡be¡¡slipped¡¡into¡¡the¡¡pocket¡¡or¡¡handbag£»¡¡and¡¡thus¡¡used¡¡on¡¡the¡¡spot¡¡by¡¡those¡¡who¡¡wish¡¡a¡¡ready¡¡reference¡¡handbook¡£

Used¡¡in¡¡connection¡¡with¡¡the¡¡earlier¡¡volume¡¡or¡¡alone¡¡for¡¡it¡¡is¡¡complete¡¡in¡¡itself¡¡in¡¡all¡¡its¡¡detailsit¡¡cannot¡¡fail¡¡to¡¡give¡¡a¡¡clearer¡¡and¡¡fuller¡¡comprehension¡¡of¡¡this¡¡¡¨Waterway¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Gods£»¡¨the¡¡most¡¡incomparable¡¡piece¡¡of¡¡rugged¡¡scenery¡¡in¡¡the¡¡known¡¡world¡£

George¡¡Wharton¡¡James¡¡El¡¡Tovar£»¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon£»¡¡September£»¡¡1909¡£



CONTENTS

FOREWORD

I¡£¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡OF¡¡ARIZONA

II¡£¡¡ON¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡RAILWAY¡¡TO¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR

III¡£¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR¡¡AND¡¡ITS¡¡EQUIPMENTS

IV¡£¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡AT¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR

V¡£¡¡THREE¡¡WAYS¡¡OF¡¡SPENDING¡¡ONE¡¡DAY¡¡AT¡¡THE¡¡CANYON

VI¡£¡¡HOW¡¡TO¡¡SPEND¡¡TWO¡¡TO¡¡FIVE¡¡DAYS¡¡AT¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR

VII¡£¡¡HOW¡¡FULLY¡¡TO¡¡SEE¡¡AND¡¡KNOW¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡REGION

VIII¡£¡¡FROM¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR¡¡DOWN¡¡THE¡¡BRIGHT¡¡ANGEL¡¡TRAIL

IX¡£¡¡TO¡¡GRAND¡¡VIEW¡¡AND¡¡DOWN¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡VIEW¡¡TRAIL

X¡£¡¡A¡¡NEW¡¡¡¨RIM¡¨¡¡ROAD¡¡AND¡¡TRAIL¡¡INTO¡¡THE¡¡SCENIC¡¡HEART¡¡OF¡¡THE¡¡CANYON

XI¡£¡¡FROM¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR¡¡TO¡¡BASS¡¡CAMP¡¡AND¡¡DOWN¡¡THE¡¡BASS¡¡TRAIL

XII¡£¡¡ACROSS¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡TO¡¡POINT¡¡SUBLIME

XIII¡£¡¡HOW¡¡THE¡¡CANYON¡¡WAS¡¡FORMED

XIV¡£¡¡THE¡¡CANYONABOVE¡¡AND¡¡BELOW

XV¡£¡¡THE¡¡HOPI¡¡HOUSE

XVI¡£¡¡VISITING¡¡INDIANS¡¡AT¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR

XVII¡£¡¡THE¡¡NAVAHO¡¡AND¡¡HOPI¡¡BLANKET¡¡WEAVERS

XVIII¡£¡¡PUEBLO¡¡AND¡¡NAVAHO¡¡POTTERY¡¡AND¡¡SILVERWARE

XIX¡£¡¡THE¡¡HOPIS¡¡AND¡¡THEIR¡¡SNARE¡¡DANCE

XX¡£¡¡AN¡¡HISTORIC¡¡TRAIL¡¡ACROSS¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡COUNTRY

XXI¡£¡¡THE¡¡NAVAHO¡¡AND¡¡HIS¡¡DESERT¡¡HOME

XXII¡£¡¡FROM¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR¡¡TO¡¡THE¡¡HAVASUPAI¡¡INDIANS¡¡AND¡¡THEIR¡¡WONDERFUL¡¡CATARACT¡¡CANYON¡¡HOMES

XXIII¡£¡¡THE¡¡FIRST¡¡DISCOVERERS¡¡AND¡¡INHABITANTS¡¡OF¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON

XXIV¡£¡¡EL¡¡TOVAR¡¡AND¡¡CARDENAS¡¡AND¡¡THE¡¡MODERN¡¡DISCOVERY¡¡OF¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON

XXV¡£¡¡FRAY¡¡MARCOS¡¡AND¡¡GARCES£»¡¡AND¡¡THEIR¡¡CONNECTION¡¡WITH¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON

XXVI¡£¡¡POWELL'S¡¡AND¡¡OTHER¡¡EXPLORATIONS¡¡OF¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON

XXVII¡£¡¡INDIAN¡¡LEGENDS¡¡ABOUT¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON

XXVIII¡£¡¡THE¡¡COLORADO¡¡RIVER¡¡FROM¡¡THE¡¡MOUNTAINS¡¡TO¡¡THE¡¡SEA

XXIX¡£¡¡CLIMATE¡¡AND¡¡WEATHER¡¡AT¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON

XXX¡£¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡FOR¡¡PLEASURE£»¡¡REST¡¡AND¡¡RECUPERATION

XXXI¡£¡¡THE¡¡STORY¡¡OF¡¡A¡¡BOAT

XXXII¡£¡¡THE¡¡GRAND¡¡CANYON¡¡A¡¡FOREST¡¡RESERVE£»¡¡GAME¡¡PRESERVE¡¡AND¡¡NATIONAL¡¡MONUMENT



CHAPTER¡¡I¡£¡¡The¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡Of¡¡Arizona

Only¡¡One¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡£¡¡The¡¡ancient¡¡world¡¡had¡¡its¡¡seven¡¡wonders£»¡¡but¡¡they¡¡were¡¡all¡¡the¡¡work¡¡of¡¡man¡£¡¡The¡¡modern¡¡world¡¡of¡¡the¡¡United¡¡States¡¡has¡¡easily¡¡its¡¡seven¡¡wondersNiagara£»¡¡the¡¡Yellowstone£»¡¡Yosemite£»¡¡the¡¡Natural¡¡Bridge£»¡¡the¡¡Mammoth¡¡Cave£»¡¡the¡¡Petrified¡¡Forest¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡of¡¡Arizonabut¡¡they¡¡are¡¡all¡¡the¡¡work¡¡of¡¡God¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡hard£»¡¡in¡¡studying¡¡the¡¡seven¡¡wonders¡¡of¡¡the¡¡ancients£»¡¡to¡¡decide¡¡which¡¡is¡¡the¡¡most¡¡wonderful£»¡¡but¡¡now¡¡that¡¡the¡¡Canyon¡¡is¡¡known¡¡all¡¡men¡¡unite¡¡in¡¡affirming¡¡that¡¡the¡¡greatest¡¡of¡¡all¡¡wonders£»¡¡ancient¡¡or¡¡modern£»¡¡is¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡of¡¡Arizona¡£¡¡Some¡¡men¡¡say¡¡there¡¡are¡¡several¡¡Grand¡¡Canyons£»¡¡but¡¡to¡¡the¡¡one¡¡who¡¡knows¡¡there¡¡is¡¡but¡¡one¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡£¡¡The¡¡use¡¡of¡¡the¡¡word¡¡to¡¡name¡¡any¡¡lesser¡¡gorge¡¡is¡¡a¡¡sacrilege¡¡as¡¡well¡¡as¡¡a¡¡misnomer¡£

Not¡¡in¡¡the¡¡spirit¡¡of¡¡carping¡¡criticism¡¡or¡¡of¡¡reckless¡¡boasting¡¡are¡¡these¡¡words¡¡uttered¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡the¡¡dictum¡¡of¡¡sober¡¡truth¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡wrong¡¡to¡¡even¡¡unintentionally¡¡mislead¡¡a¡¡whole¡¡people¡¡by¡¡the¡¡misuse¡¡of¡¡names¡£¡¡Until¡¡made¡¡fully¡¡aware¡¡of¡¡the¡¡facts£»¡¡the¡¡traveling¡¡world¡¡are¡¡liable¡¡to¡¡error¡£¡¡They¡¡want¡¡to¡¡see¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡£¡¡They¡¡are¡¡shown¡¡these¡¡inferior¡¡gorges£»¡¡each¡¡called¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon£»¡¡and£»¡¡because¡¡they¡¡do¡¡not¡¡know£»¡¡they¡¡accept¡¡the¡¡half¡­truth¡£¡¡The¡¡other¡¡canyons¡¡they¡¡see¡¡are¡¡great¡¡enough¡¡in¡¡themselves¡¡to¡¡claim¡¡their¡¡closest¡¡study£»¡¡and¡¡worthy¡¡to¡¡have¡¡distinctive¡¡names¡¡bestowed¡¡upon¡¡them¡£¡¡But£»¡¡as¡¡Clarence¡¡Dutton£»¡¡the¡¡eminent¡¡geologist£»¡¡has¡¡well¡¡said¡¡in¡¡his¡¡important¡¡scientific¡¡monograph¡¡written¡¡for¡¡the¡¡United¡¡States¡¡Geological¡¡Survey£º¡¡¡¨The¡¡name¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡repeatedly¡¡has¡¡been¡¡infringed¡¡for¡¡purposes¡¡of¡¡advertisement¡£¡¡The¡¡Canyon¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Yellowstone¡¡has¡¡been¡¡called¡¡'The¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡£'¡¡A¡¡more¡¡flagrant¡¡piracy¡¡is¡¡the¡¡naming¡¡of¡¡the¡¡gorge¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Arkansas¡¡River¡¡'The¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡of¡¡Colorado£»'¡¡and¡¡many¡¡persons¡¡who¡¡have¡¡visited¡¡it¡¡have¡¡been¡¡persuaded¡¡that¡¡they¡¡have¡¡seen¡¡the¡¡great¡¡chasm¡£¡¡These¡¡river¡¡valleys¡¡are¡¡certainly¡¡very¡¡pleasing¡¡and¡¡picturesque£»¡¡but¡¡there¡¡is¡¡no¡¡more¡¡comparison¡¡between¡¡them¡¡and¡¡the¡¡mighty¡¡chasm¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Colorado¡¡River¡¡than¡¡there¡¡is¡¡between¡¡the¡¡Alleghanies¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Himalayas¡£

Sublimity¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡£¡¡¡¨Those¡¡who¡¡have¡¡long¡¡and¡¡carefully¡¡studied¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Colorado¡¡do¡¡not¡¡hesitate¡¡for¡¡a¡¡moment¡¡to¡¡pronounce¡¡it¡¡by¡¡far¡¡the¡¡most¡¡sublime¡¡of¡¡all¡¡earthly¡¡spectacles¡£¡¡If¡¡its¡¡sublimity¡¡consisted¡¡only¡¡in¡¡its¡¡dimensions£»¡¡it¡¡could¡¡be¡¡set¡¡forth¡¡in¡¡a¡¡single¡¡sentence¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡more¡¡than¡¡two¡¡hundred¡¡miles¡¡long£»¡¡from¡¡five¡¡to¡¡twelve¡¡miles¡¡wide£»¡¡and¡¡from¡¡five¡¡thousand¡¡to¡¡six¡¡thousand¡¡feet¡¡deep¡£¡¡There¡¡are¡¡in¡¡the¡¡world¡¡valleys¡¡which¡¡are¡¡longer¡¡and¡¡a¡¡few¡¡which¡¡are¡¡deeper¡£¡¡There¡¡are¡¡valleys¡¡flanked¡¡by¡¡summits¡¡loftier¡¡than¡¡the¡¡palisades¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Kaibab¡£¡¡Still¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡is¡¡the¡¡sublimest¡¡thing¡¡on¡¡earth¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡so¡¡not¡¡alone¡¡by¡¡virtue¡¡of¡¡its¡¡magnitudes£»¡¡but¡¡by¡¡virtue¡¡of¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡its¡¡tout¡¡ensemble¡£¡¨

What£»¡¡then£»¡¡is¡¡this¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon£»¡¡for¡¡which¡¡its¡¡friends¡¡dare¡¡to¡¡make¡¡so¡¡large¡¡and¡¡bold¡¡a¡¡claim£¿

It¡¡is¡¡a¡¡portiona¡¡very¡¡small¡¡portionof¡¡the¡¡waterway¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Colorado¡¡River£»¡¡and¡¡it¡¡is¡¡so¡¡named¡¡to¡¡differentiate¡¡it¡¡from¡¡the¡¡other¡¡canyons¡¡of¡¡the¡¡same¡¡river¡£¡¡The¡¡canyon¡¡system¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Colorado¡¡River¡¡is¡¡as¡¡vast¡¡in¡¡its¡¡extent¡¡as¡¡is¡¡the¡¡Grand¡¡Canyon¡¡in¡¡its¡¡quality¡¡of¡¡sublimity¡£¡¡For¡¡it¡¡consists¡¡of¡¡such¡¡a¡¡maze¡¡of¡¡canyonsthe¡¡main¡¡canyons¡¡through¡¡which¡¡the¡¡river¡¡itself¡¡runs£»¡¡the¡¡canyons¡¡through¡¡which¡¡its¡¡tributari
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