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overthrown stones； the empty horizonseverything； in short； save the
immensity and infinite solitude； the horror； in a word which formerly
made it so little desirable。 It is a little astonishing； it must be
owned； to find； on arriving there； that the rocks have been carefully
numbered in white paint； and in some cases marked with a large cross
〃which catches the eye from a greater distance still〃（sic）。 But I
agree that the effect of the whole has lost nothing。
In the morning before the sun gets too hot； between breakfast and
luncheon to be precise； all the good ladies in cork helmets and blue
spectacles （dark…coloured spectacles are recommended on account of the
glare） spread themselves over these solitudes； domesticated as it were
to their use； with as much security as in Trafalgar Square or
Kensington Gardens。 Not seldom even you may see one of them making her
way alone； book in hand； towards one of the picturesque rocksNo。
363； for example； or No。 364； if you like it betterwhich seems to be
making signs to her with its white ticket； in a manner which； to the
uninitiated observer； might seem even a little improper。
But what a sense of safety families may feel here； to be sure！ In
spite of the huge numbers； which at first sight look a little
equivocal； nothing in the least degree reprehensible can happen among
these granites； which are； moreover； in a single piece； without the
least crack or hole into which the straggler could contrive to crawl。
No。 The figures and the crosses denote simple blocks of stones；
covered with hieroglyphics； and correspond to a chaste catalogue where
each Pharaonic inscription may be found translated in the most
becoming language。
This ingenious ticketing of the stones of the desert is due to the
initiative of an English Egyptologist。
CHAPTER XX
THE PASSING OF PHILAE
Leaving Assouanas soon as we have passed the last housewe come at
once upon the desert。 And now the night is falling； a cold February
night； under a strange； copper…coloured sky。
Incontestably it is the desert； with its chaos of granite and sand；
its warm tones and reddish colour。 But there are telegraph poles and
the lines of a railroad； which traverse it in company； and disappear
in the empty horizon。 And then too how paradoxical and ridiculous it
seems to be travelling here on full security and in a carriage！ （The
most commonplace of hackney…carriages； which I hired by the hour on
the quay of Assouan。） A desert indeed which preserves still its
aspects of reality； but has become domesticated and tamed for the use
of the tourists and the ladies。
First； immense cemeteries surrounded by sand at the beginning of these
quasi…solitudes。 Such old cemeteries of every epoch of history。 The
thousand little cupolas of saints of Islam are crumbling side by side
with the Christian obelisks of the first centuries； and； underneath；
the Pharaonic hypogea。 In the twilight； all these ruins of the dead；
all the scattered blocks of granite are mingled in mournful groupings；
outlined in fantastic silhouette against the pale copper of the sky；
broken arches； tilted domes； and rocks that rise up like tall
phantoms。
Farther on； when we have left behind this region of tombs； the
granites alone litter the expanse of sand； granites to which the usury
of centuries has given the form of huge round beasts。 In places they
have been thrown one upon the other and make great heaps of monsters。
Elsewhere they lie alone among the sands； as if lost in the midst of
the infinitude of some dead sea…shore。 The rails and the telegraph
poles have disappeared； by the magic of twilight everything is become
grand again； beneath one of those evening skies of Egypt which； in
winter； resemble cold cupolas of metal。 And now it is that you feel
yourself verily on the threshold of the profound desolations of
Arabia； from which no barrier； after all separates you。 Were it not
for the lack of verisimilitude in the carriage that has brought us
hither； we should be able now to take this desert quite seriouslyfor
in fact it has no limits。
After travelling for about three…quarters of an hour； we see in the
distance a number of lights； which have already been kindled in the
growing darkness。 They seem too bright to be those of an Arab
encampment。 And our driver turning round and pointing to them says：
〃Chelal！〃
Chelalthat is the name of the Arab village； on the riverside； where
you take the boat for Philae。 To our disgust the place is lighted by
electricity。 It consists of a station； a factory with a long smoking
chimney； and a dozen or so suspicious…looking taverns； reeking of
alcohol； without which； it would seem； our European civilisation could
not implant itself in a new country。
And here we embark for Philae。 A number of boats are ready： for the
tourists allured by many advertisements flock hither every winter in
docile herds。 All the boats； without a single exception； are profusely
decorated with little English flags； as if for some regatta on the
Thames。 There is no escape therefore from this beflagging of a foreign
holidayand we set out with a homesick song of Nubia； which the
boatmen sing to the cadence of the oars。
The copper…coloured heaven remains so impregnated with cold light that
we still see clearly。 We are amid magnificent tragic scenery on a lake
surrounded by a kind of fearful amphitheatre outlined on all sides by
the mountains of the desert。 It was at the bottom of this granite
circus that the Nile used to flow； forming fresh islets； on which the
eternal verdure of the palm…trees contrasted with the high desolate
mountains that surrounded it like a wall。 To…day； on account of the
barrage established by the English； the water has steadily risen； like
a tide that will never recede； and this lake； almost a little sea；
replaces the meanderings of the river and has succeeded in submerging
the sacred islets。 The sanctuary of Isiswhich was enthroned for
thousands of years on the summit of a hill； crowded with temples and
colonnades and statuesstill half emerges； but it is alone and will
soon go the way of the others； There it is； beyond； like a great rock；
at this hour in which the night begins to obscure everything。
Nowhere but in Upper Egypt have the winter nights these transparencies
of absolute emptiness nor these sinister colourings。 As the light
gradually fails； the sky passes from copper to bronze； but remains
always metallic。 The zenith becomes brownish like a brazen shield；
while the setting sun alone retains its yellow colour； growing slowly
paler till it is almost of the whiteness of latten； and； above； the
mountains of the desert edge their sharp outlines with a tint of burnt
sienna。 To…night a freezing wind blows fiercely in our faces。 To the
continual chant of the rowers we pass slowly over the artificial lake；
which is upheld as it were in the air by the English masonry；
invisible now in the distance； but divined nevertheless and revolting。
A sacrilegious lake one might call it； since it hides beneath its
troubled waters ruins beyond all price； temples of the gods of Egypt；
churches of the first centuries of Christianity； obelisks；
inscriptions and emblems。 It is over these things that we now pass；
while the spray splashes in our faces； and the foam of a thousand
angry little billows。
We draw near to what was once the holy isle。 In places dying palm…
trees； whose long trunks are to…day under water； still show their
moistened plumes and give an appearance of inundation； almost of
cataclysm。
Before coming to the sanctuary of Isis； we touch at the kiosk of
Philae； which has been reproduced in the pictures of every age； and is
as celebrated even as the Sphinx and the pyramids。 It used to stand on
a pedestal of high rocks； and around it the date…trees swayed their
bouquets of aerial palms。 To…day it has no longer a base； its columns
rise se