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and the pylons grow smaller； lower themselves and sink into the earth。
The white giant who follows me always with his sightless stare is now
reduced to the proportions of a simple human dreamer。 His attitude
moreover has not the rigid hieratic aspect of the other Theban
statues。 With his hands upon his knees he looks like a mere ordinary
mortal who had stopped to reflect。＇*＇ I have known him for many days
for many days and many nights； for； what with his whiteness and the
transparency of these Egyptian nights； I have seen him often outlined
in the distance under the dim light of the starsa great phantom in
his contemplative pose。 And I feel myself obsessed now by the
continuance of his attitude at this entrance of the ruinsI who shall
pass without a morrow from Thebes and even from the eartheven as we
all pass。 Before conscious life was vouchsafed to me he was there； had
been there since times which make you shudder to think upon。 For three
and thirty centuries； or thereabouts； the eyes of myriads of unknown
men and women； who have gone before me； saw him just as I see him now；
tranquil and white； in this same place； seated before this same
threshold； with his head a little bent； and his pervading air of
thought。
＇*＇ Statue of Amenophis III。
I make my way without hastening； having always a tendency to stop and
look behind me； to watch the silent heap of palaces and the white
dreamer； which now are all illumined with a last Bengal fire in the
daily setting of the sun。
And the hour is already twilight when I reach the goddesses。
Their domain is so destroyed that the sands had succeeded in covering
and hiding it for centuries。 But it has lately been exhumed。
There remain of it now only some fragments of columns； aligned in
multiple rows in a vast extent of desert。 Broken and fallen stones and
debris。＇*＇ I walk on without stopping； and at length reach the sacred
lake on the margin of which the great cats are seated in eternal
council； each one on her throne。 The lake； dug by order of the
Pharaohs； is in the form of an arc； like a kind of crescent。 Some
marsh birds； that are about to retire for the night； now traverse its
mournful； sleeping water。 Its borders； which have known the utmost of
magnificence； are become mere heaps of ruins on which nothing grows。
And what one sees beyond； what the attentive goddesses themselves
regard； is the empty desolate plain； on which some few poor fields of
corn mingle in this twilight hour with the sad infinitude of the
sands。 And the whole is bounded on the horizon by the chain； still a
little rose…coloured； of the limestones of Arabia。
＇*＇ The temple of the Goddess Mut。
They are there； the cats； or； to speak more exactly； the lionesses；
for cats would not have those short ears； or those cruel chins；
thickened by tufts of beard。 All of black granite； images of Sekhet
（who was the Goddess of War； and in her hours the Goddess of Lust）；
they have the slender body of a woman； which makes more terrible the
great feline head surmounted by its high bonnet。 Eight or ten； or
perhaps more； they are more disquieting in that they are so numerous
and so alike。 They are not gigantic； as one might have expected； but
of ordinary human statureeasy therefore to carry away； or to
destroy； and that again； if one reflects； augments the singular
impression they cause。 When so many colossal figures lie in pieces on
the ground； how comes it that they； little people seated so tranquilly
on their chairs； have contrived to remain intact； during the passing
of the three and thirty centuries of the world's history？
The passage of the march birds； which for a moment disturbed the clear
mirror of the lake； has ceased。 Around the goddesses nothing moves and
the customary infinite silence envelops them as at the fall of every
night。 They dwell indeed in such a forlorn corner of the ruins！ Who；
to be sure； even in broad daylight； would think of visiting them？
Down there in the west a trailing cloud of dust indicates the
departure of the tourists； who had flocked to the temple of Amen； and
now hasten back to Luxor； to dine at the various /tables d'hote/。 The
ground here is so felted with sand that in the distance we cannot hear
the rolling of their carriages。 But the knowledge that they are gone
renders more intimate the interview with these numerous and identical
goddesses； who little by little have been draped in shadow。 Their
seats turn their backs to the palaces of Thebes； which now begin to be
bathed in violet waves and seem to sink towards the horizon； to lose
each minute something of their importance before the sovereignty of
the night。
And the black goddesses； with their lioness' heads and tall headgear
seated there with their hands upon their knees； with eyes fixed since
the beginning of the ages； and a disturbing smile on their thick lips；
like those of a wild beastcontinue to regardbeyond the little dead
lakethat desert； which now is only a confused immensity； of a bluish
ashy…grey。 And the fancy seizes you that they are possessed of a kind
of life； which has come to them after long waiting； by virtue of that
/expression/ which they have worn on their faces so long； oh！ so long。
*****
Beyond； at the other extremity of the ruins； there is a sister of
these goddesses； taller than they； a great Sekhet； whom in these parts
men call the Ogress； and who dwells alone and upright； ambushed in a
narrow temple。 Amongst the fellahs and the Bedouins of the
neighbourhood she enjoys a very bad reputation； it being her custom of
nights to issue from her temple； and devour men； and none of them
would willingly venture near her dwelling at this late hour。 But
instead of returning to Luxor； like the good people whose carriages
have just departed； I rather choose to pay her a visit。
Her dwelling is some distance away； and I shall not reach it till the
dead of night。
First of all I have to retrace my steps； to return along the whole
avenue of rams； to pass again by the feet of the white giant； who has
already assumed his phantomlike appearance； while the violet waves
that bathed the town…mummy thicken and turn to a greyish…blue。 And
then； leaving behind me the pylons guarded by the broken giants； I
thread my way among the palaces of the centre。
It is among these palaces that I encounter for good and all the night；
with the first cries of the owls and ospreys。 It is still warm there；
on account of the heat stored by the stones during the day； but one
feels nevertheless that the air is freezing。
At a crossing a tall human figure looms up； draped in black and armed
with a baton。 It is a roving Bedouin； one of the guards； and this more
or less is the dialogue exchanged between us （freely and succinctly
translated）：
〃Your permit； sir。〃
〃Here it is。〃
（Here we combine our efforts to illuminate the said permit by the
light of a match。）
〃Good； I will go with you。〃
〃No。 I beg of you。〃
〃Yes； I had better。 Where are you going？〃
〃Beyond； to the temple of that ladyyou know； who is great and
powerful and has a face like a lioness。〃
〃Ah！ 。 。 。 Yes； I think I understand that you would prefer to go
alone。〃 （Here the intonation becomes infantine。） 〃But you are a kind
gentleman and will not forget the poor Bedouin all the same。〃
He goes on his way。 On leaving the palaces I have still to traverse an
extent of uncultivated country； where a veritable cold seizes me。
Above my head no longer the heavy suspended stones； but the far…off
expanse of the blue night skywhere are shining now myriads upon
myriads of stars。 For the Thebans of old this beautiful vault；
scintillating always with its powder of diamonds； shed no doubt only
serenity upon their souls。 But for us； /who knows； alas！/ it is on the
contrary the field of the great fear； which； out of pity； it would
have been better if we had never been