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uneasiness of the evenings around the ruins。 There is no one now
within the mummy…town； which seems all at once to have grown larger in
the silence。 Very quickly the violet shadow covers it； all save the
extreme points of its obelisks； which keep still a little of their
rose…colour。 The feeling comes over you that a sovereign mystery has
taken possession of the town； as if some vague phantom things had just
passed into it。
CHAPTER XV
THEBES BY NIGHT
The feeling； almost； that you have grown suddenly smaller by entering
there； that you are dwarfed to less than human sizeto such an extent
do the proportions of these ruins seem to crush youand the illusion；
also； that the light； instead of being extinguished with the evening；
has only changed its colour； and become blue： that is what one
experiences on a clear Egyptian night； in walking between the
colonnades of the great temple at Thebes。
The place is； moreover； so singular and so terrible that its mere name
would at once cast a spell upon the spirit； even if one were ignorant
of the place itself。 The hypostyle of the temple of the God Amenthat
could be no other thing but one。 For this hall is unique in the world；
in the same way as the Grotto of Fingal and the Himalayas are unique。
*****
To wander absolutely alone at night in Thebes requires during the
winter a certain amount of stratagem and a knowledge of the routine of
the tourists。 It is necessary； first of all； to choose a night on
which the moon rises late and then； having entered before the close of
the day； to escape the notice of the Bedouin guards who shut the gates
at nightfall。 Thus have I waited with the patience of a stone Osiris；
till the grand transformation scene of the setting of the sun was
played out once more upon the ruins。 Thebes； which； during the day； is
almost animate by reason of the presence of the visitors and the gangs
of fellahs who； singing the while； are busy at the diggings and the
clearing away of the rubbish； has emptied itself little by little；
while the blue shadows were mounting from the base of the monstrous
sanctuaries。 I watched the people moving in a long row； like a trail
of ants； towards the western gate between the pylons of the Ptolemies；
and the last of them had disappeared before the rosy light died away
on the topmost points of the obelisks。
It seemed as if the silence and the night arrived together from beyond
the Arabian desert； advanced together across the plain； spreading out
like a rapid oil…stain； then gained the town from east to west； and
rose rapidly from the ground to the very summits of the temples。 And
this march of the darkness was infinitely solemn。
For the first few moments； indeed； you might imagine that it was going
to be an ordinary night such as we know in our climate； and a sense of
uneasiness takes hold of you in the midst of this confusion of
enormous stones； which in the darkness would become a quite
inextricable maze。 Oh！ the horror of being lost in those ruins of
Thebes and not being able to see！ But in the event the air preserved
its transparency to such a degree； and the stars began soon to
scintillate so brightly that the surrounding things could be
distinguished almost as well as in the daytime。
Indeed； now that the time of transition between the day and night has
passed； the eyes grow accustomed to the strange； blue； persistent
clearness so that you seem suddenly to have acquired the pupils of a
cat； and the ultimate effect is merely as if you saw through a smoked
glass which changed all the various shades of this reddish…coloured
country into one uniform tint of blue。
Behold me then； for some two or three hours； alone among the temples
of the Pharaohs。 The tourists； whom the carriages and donkeys are at
this moment taking back to the hotels of Luxor； will not return till
very late； when the full moon will have risen and be shedding its
clear light upon the ruins。 My post； while I waited； was high up among
the ruins on the margin of the sacred Lake of Osiris； the still and
enclosed water of which is astonishing in that it has remained there
for so many centuries。 It still conceals； no doubt； numberless
treasures confided to it in the days of slaughters and pillages； when
the armies of the Persian and Nubian kings forced the thick；
surrounding walls。
In a few minutes； thousands of stars appear at the bottom of this
water； reflecting symmetrically the veritable ones which now
scintillate everywhere in the heavens。 A sudden cold spreads over the
town…mummy； whose stones； still warm from their exposure to the sun；
cool very rapidly in this nocturnal blue which envelops them as in a
shroud。 I am free to wander where I please without risk of meeting
anyone； and I begin to descend by the steps made by the falling of the
granite blocks； which have formed on all sides staircases as if for
giants。 On the overturned surfaces； my hands encounter the deep；
clear…cut hollows of the hieroglyphs； and sometimes of those
inevitable people； carved in profile； who raise their arms； all of
them； and make signs to one another。 On arriving at the bottom I am
received by a row of statues with battered faces； seated on thrones；
and without hindrance of any kind； and recognising everything in the
blue transparency which takes the place of day； I come to the great
avenue of the palaces of Amen。
We have nothing on earth in the least degree comparable to this
avenue； which passive multitudes took nearly three thousand years to
construct； expending； century after century； their innumerable
energies in carrying these stones； which our machines now could not
move。 And the objective was always the same： to prolong indefinitely
the perspectives of pylons； colossi and obelisks； continuing always
this same artery of temples and palaces in the direction of the old
Nilewhile the latter； on the contrary； receded slowly； from century
to century； towards Libya。 It is here； and especially at night； that
you suffer the feeling of having been shrunken to the size of a pygmy。
All round you rise monoliths mighty as rocks。 You have to take twenty
paces to pass the base of a single one of them。 They are placed quite
close together； too close； it seems； in view of their enormity and
mass。 There is not enough air between them； and the closeness of their
juxtaposition disconcerts you more； perhaps； even than their
massiveness。
The avenue which I have followed in an easterly direction abuts on as
disconcerting a chaos of granite as exists in Thebesthe hall of the
feasts of Thothmes III。 What kind of feasts were they； that this king
gave here； in this forest of thick…set columns； beneath these
ceilings； of which the smallest stone； if it fell； would crush twenty
men？ In places the friezes； the colonnades； which seem almost
diaphanous in the air； are outlined still with a proud magnificence in
unbroken alignment against the star…strewn sky。 Elsewhere the
destruction is bewildering； fragments of columns； entablatures； bas…
reliefs lie about in indescribable confusion； like a lot of scattered
wreckage after a world…wide tempest。 For it was not enough that the
hand of man should overturn these things。 Tremblings of the earth； at
different times； have also come to shake this Cyclops palace which
threatened to be eternal。 And all thiswhich represents such an
excess of force； of movement； of impulsion； alike for its erection as
for its overthrowall this is tranquil this evening； oh！ so tranquil；
although toppling as if for an imminent downfalltranquil forever；
one might say； congealed by the cold and by the night。
I was prepared for silence in such a place； but not for the sounds
which I commence to hear。 First of all an osprey sounds the prelude；
above my head and so close to me that it holds me trembling throughout
its long cry。 Then other voices answer from the depths of the ruins；
voice