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the superposed rows of innumerable figures that gesticulate on the
walls。 And then； after other majestic corridors； we reach the heart of
this heap of terrible stones； the holy of holies； enveloped in deep
gloom。 The hieroglyphic inscriptions name this place the 〃Hall of
Mystery〃 and formerly the high priest /alone； and he only once in each
year/； had the right to enter it for the performance of some now
unknown rites。
The 〃Hall of Mystery〃 is empty to…day； despoiled long since of the
emblems of gold and precious stones that once filled it。 The meagre
little flames of the candles we have lit scarcely pierce the darkness
which thickens over our heads towards the granite ceilings； at the
most they only allow us to distinguish on the walls of the vast
rectangular cavern the serried ranks of figures who exchange among
themselves their disconcerting mute conversations。
Towards the end of the ancient and at the beginning of the Christian
era； Egypt； as we know； still exercised such a fascination over the
world； by its ancestral prestige； by the memory of its dominating
past； and the sovereign permanence of its ruins； that it imposed its
gods upon its conquerors； its handwriting； its architecture； nay； even
its religious rites and its mummies。 The Ptolemies built temples here；
which reproduce those of Thebes and Abydos。 Even the Romans； although
they had already discovered the /vault/； followed here the primitive
models； and continued those granite ceilings； made of monstrous slabs；
placed flat； like our beams。 And so this temple of Hathor； built
though it was in the time of Cleopatra and Augustus； on a site
venerable in the oldest antiquity； recalls at first sight some
conception of the Ramses。
If； however； you examine it more closely； there appears； particularly
in the thousands of figures in bas…relief； a considerable divergence。
The poses are the same indeed； and so too are the traditional
gestures。 But the exquisite grace of line is gone； as well as the
hieratic calm of the expressions and the smiles。 In the Egyptian art
of the best periods the slender figures are as pure as the flowers
they hold in their hands； their muscles may be indicated in a precise
and skilful manner； but they remain； for all that； immaterial。 The god
Amen himself； the procreator； drawn often with an absolute crudity；
would seem chaste compared with the hosts of this temple。 For here； on
the contrary； the figures might be those of living people； palpitating
and voluptuous； who had posed themselves for sport in these
consecrated attitudes。 The throat of the beautiful goddess； her hips；
her unveiled nakedness； are portrayed with a searching and lingering
realism； the flesh seems almost to quiver。 She and her spouse； the
beautiful Horus； son of Iris； contemplate each other； naked； one
before the other； and their laughing eyes are intoxicated with love。
Around the holy of holies is a number of halls； in deep shadow and
massive as so many fortresses。 They were used formerly for mysterious
and complicated rites； and in them； as everywhere else； there is no
corner of the wall but is overloaded with figures and hieroglyphs。
Bats are asleep in the blue ceilings； where the winged discs； painted
in fresco； look like flights of birds； and the hornets of the
neighbouring fields have built their nests there in hundreds； so that
they hang like stalactites。
Several staircases lead to the vast terraces formed by the great roofs
of the templestaircases narrow； stifling and dimly lighted by
loopholes that reveal the heart…breaking thickness of the walls。 And
here again are the inevitable rows of figures； carved on all the
walls； in the same familiar attitudes； they mount with us as we
ascend； making all the time the self…same signs one to another。
As we emerge on to the roofs； bathed now in Egyptian sunlight and
swept by a cold and bitter wind； we are greeted by a noise as of an
aviary。 It is the kingdom of the sparrows； who have built their nests
in thousands in this temple of the complaisant goddess。 They twitter
now all together and with all their might out of very joy of living。
It is an esplanade； this roofa solitude paved with gigantic
flagstones。 From it we see； beyond the heaps of ruins； those happy
plains； which are spread out with such a perfect serenity on the very
ground where once stood the town of Denderah； beloved of Hathor and
one of the most famous of Upper Egypt。 Exquisitely green are these
plains with the new growth of wheat and lucerne and bean； and the
herds that are grouped here and there on the fresh verdure of the
level pastures； swaying now and undulating in the wind； look like so
many dark patches。 And the two chains of mountains of rose…coloured
stone； that run parallelon the east that of the desert of Arabia； on
the west that of the Libyan desertenclose； in the distance； this
valley of the Nile； this land of plenty； which； alike in antiquity as
in our days； has excited the greed of predatory races。 The temple has
also some underground dependencies or crypts into which you descend by
staircases as of dungeons； sometimes even you have to crawl through
holes to reach them。 Long superposed galleries which might serve as
hiding…places for treasure； long corridors recalling those which； in
bad dreams； threaten to close in and bury you。 And the innumerable
figures； of course； are here too； gesticulating on the walls； and
endless representations of the lovely goddess； whose swelling bosom；
which has preserved almost intact the flesh colour applied in the
times of the Ptolemies； we have perforce to graze as we pass。
*****
In one of the vestibules that we have to traverse on our way out of
the sanctuary； amongst the numerous bas…reliefs representing various
sovereigns paying homage to the beautiful Hathor； is one of a young
man； crowned with a royal tiara shaped like the head of a uraeus。 He
is shown seated in the traditional Pharaonic pose and is none other
than the Emperor Nero！
The hieroglyphs of the cartouche are there to affirm his identity；
albeit the sculptor； not knowing his actual physiognomy； has given him
the traditional features； regular as those of the god Horus。 During
the centuries of the Roman domination the Western emperors used to
send from home instructions that their likeness should be placed on
the walls of the temples； and that offerings should be made in their
name to the Egyptian divinitiesand this notwithstanding that in
their eyes Egypt must have seemed so far away； a colony almost at the
end of the earth。 （And it was such a goddess as this； of secondary
rank in the times of the Pharaohs； that was singled out as the
favourite of the Romans of the decadence。）
The Emperor Nero！ As a matter of fact at the very time these bas…
reliefsalmost the lastand these expiring hieroglyphics were being
inscribed； the confused primitive theogonies had almost reached their
end and the days of the Goddess of Joy were numbered。 There had been
conceived in Judaea symbols more lofty and more pure； which were to
rule a great part of the world for two thousand yearsafterwards；
alas； to decline in their turn； and men were about to throw themselves
passionately into renunciation； asceticism and fraternal pity。
How strange it is to say！ Even while the sculptor was carving this
archaic bas…relief； and was using； for the engraving of its name；
characters that dated back to the night of the ages； there were
already Christians assembled in the catacombs at Rome and dying in
ecstasy in the arena！
CHAPTER XIII
MODERN LUXOR
The waters of the Nile being already low my dahabiyadelayed by
strandingshad not been able to reach Luxor； and we had moored
ourselves； as the darkness began to fall； at a casual spot on the
bank。
〃We are quite near；〃 the pilot had told me before departing to make
his evening prayer； 〃in an hour； to…morrow； we shall be t