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from lassitude； after so many centuries of effort and expansive power。
Once it monopolised the glory of the world； and here it is nowfor
some two thousand yearsfallen into a kind of tired sleep； which has
left it an easy prey alike to the conquerors of yesterday and to the
exploiters of to…day。
Another trait which； side by side with their patience； prevails
amongst these true…blooded Egyptians of the countryside is their
attachment to the soil； to the soil which nourishes them； and in which
later on they will sleep。 To possess land； to forestall at any price
the smallest portion of it； to reclaim patches of it from the shifting
desert； that is the sole aim； or almost so； which the fellahs pursue
in this world： to possess a field； however small it may bea field；
moreover； which they till with the oldest plough invented by man； the
exact design of which may be seen carved on the walls of the tombs at
Memphis。
And this same people； which was the first of any to conceive
magnificence； whose gods and kings were formerly surrounded with an
over…powering splendour； contrives； to live to…day； pell…mell with its
sheep and goats； in humble； low…roofed cabins made out of sunbaked
mud！ The Egyptian villages are all of the neutral colour of the soil；
a little white chalk brightens； perhaps； the minaret or cupola of the
mosque； but except for that little refuge； whither folk come to pray
each eveningfor no one here would retire for the night without
having first prostrated himself before the majesty of Allah
everything is of a mournful grey。 Even the costumes of the people are
dull…coloured and wretched…looking。 It is an East grown poor and old；
although the sky remains as wonderful as ever。
But all this past grandeur has left its imprint on the fellahs。 They
have a refinement of appearance and manner； all unknown amongst the
majority of the good people of our villages。 And those amongst them
who by good fortune become prosperous have forthwith a kind of
distinction； and seem to know； as if by birth； how to dispense the
gracious hospitality of an aristocrat。 The hospitality of even the
humblest preserves something of courtesy and ease； which tells of
breed。 I remember those clear evenings when； after the peaceful
navigation of the day； I used to stop and draw up my dahabiya to the
bank of the river。 （I speak now of out…of…the…way placesfree as yet
from the canker of the tourist elementsuch as I habitually chose。）
It was in the twilight at the hour when the stars began to shine out
from the golden…green sky。 As soon as I put foot upon the shore； and
my arrival was signalled by the barking of the watchdogs； the chief of
the nearest hamlet always came to meet me。 A dignified man； in a long
robe of striped silk or modest blue cotton； he accosted me with
formulae of welcome quite in the grand manner； insisted on my
following him to his house of dried mud； and there； escorting me；
after the exchange of further compliments； to the place of honour on
the poor divan of his lodging； forced me to accept the traditional cup
of Arab coffee。
*****
To wake these fellahs from their strange sleep； to open their eyes at
last； and to transform them by a modern educationthat is the task
which nowadays a select band of Egyptian patriots is desirous of
attempting。 Not long ago； such an endeavour would have seemed to me a
crime； for these stubborn peasants were living under conditions of the
least suffering； rich in faith and poor in desire。 But to…day they are
suffering from an invasion more undermining； more dangerous than that
of the conquerors who killed by sword and fire。 The Occidentals are
there； everywhere； amongst them； profiting by their meek passivity to
turn them into slaves for their business and their pleasure。 The work
of degradation of these simpletons is so easy： men bring them new
desires； new greeds； new needs；and rob them of their prayers。
Yet； it is time perhaps to wake them from their sleep of more than
twenty centuries； to put them on their guard； and to see what yet they
may be capable of； what surprises they may have in store for us after
that long lethargy； which must surely have been restorative。 In any
case the human species； in course of deterioration through overstrain；
would find amongst these singers of the shaduf and these labourers
with the antiquated plough； brains unclouded by alcohol； and a whole
reserve of tranquil beauty； of well…balanced physique； of vigour
untainted by bestiality。
CHAPTER X
A CHARMING LUNCHEON
We are making our way through the fields of Abydos in the dazzling
splendour of the forenoon； having come； like so many pilgrims of old；
from the banks of the Nile to visit the sanctuaries of Osiris； which
lie beyond the green plains； on the edge of the desert。
It is a journey of some ten miles or so； under a clear sky and a
burning sun。 We pass through fields of corn and lucerne； whose
wonderful green is piqued with little flowers； such as may be seen in
our climate。 Hundreds of little birds sing to us distractedly of the
joy of life； the sun shines radiantly； magnificently； the impetuous
corn is already in the ear； it might be some gay pageant of our days
of May。 One forgets that it is February； that we are still in the
winterthe luminous winter of Egypt。
Here and there amongst the outspread fields are villages buried under
the thick foliage of treesunder acacias which； in the distance；
resemble ours at home； beyond indeed the mountain chain of Libya； like
a wall confining the fertile fields； looks strange perhaps in its
rose…colour； and too desolate； but； nevertheless amidst this glad
music of the fields； these songs of larks and twitterings of sparrows；
you scarcely realise that you are in a foreign land。
Abydos！ What magic there is in the name！ 〃Abydos is at hand； and in
another moment we shall be there。〃 The mere words seem somehow to
transform the aspect of the homely green fields； and make this
pastoral region almost imposing。 The buzzing of the flies increases in
the overheated air and the song of the birds subsides until at last it
dies away in the approach of noon。
We have been journeying a little more than an hour amongst the verdure
of the growing corn that lies upon the fields like a carpet； when
suddenly； beyond the little houses and tress of a village； quite a
different world is disclosedthe familiar world of glare and death
which presses so closely upon inhabited Egypt： the desert！ The desert
of Libya； and now as ever when we come upon it suddenly from the banks
of the old river it rises up before us； beginning at once； without
transition； absolute and terrible； as soon as we leave the thick
velvet of the last field； the cool shade of the last acacia。 Its sands
seem to slope towards us； in a prodigious incline； from the strange
mountains that we saw from the happy plain； and which now appear；
enthroned beyond； like the monarchs of all this nothingness。
The town of Abydos； which has vanished and left no wrack behind； rose
once in this spot where we now stand； on the very threshold of the
solitudes； but its necropoles； more venerated even than those of
Memphis； and its thrice…holy temples； are a little farther on； in the
marvellously conserving sand； which has buried them under its tireless
waves and preserved them almost intact up till the present day。
The desert！ As soon as we put foot upon its shifting soil； which
smothers the sound of our steps； the atmosphere too seems suddenly to
change； it burns with a strange new heat； as if great fires had been
lighted in the neighbourhood。
And this whole domain of light and drought； right away into the
distance； is shaded and streaked with the familiar brown； red and
yellow colours。 The mournful reflection of adjacent things augments to
excess the heat and light。 The horizon trembles under the little
vapours of mirage like water ruf