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sensible。
From time to time some mention from me of city improvements
observed during my daily walks led to an interesting discussion。
The city of Berlin is wonderfully well governed； and exhibits all
those triumphs of modern municipal skill and devotion which are
so conspicuously absent； as a rule； from our American cities。
While his capital preserves its self…governing powers； it is
clear that he purposes to have his full say as to everything
within his jurisdiction。 There were various examples of this； and
one of them especially interested me： the renovation of the
Thiergarten。 This great park； virtually a gift of the
Hohenzollern monarchs； which once lay upon the borders of the
city； but is now in the very heart of it； had gradually fallen
far short of what it should have been。 Even during my earlier
stays in Berlin it was understood that some of his predecessors；
and especially his father； had desired to change its copse…like
and swampy character and give it more of the features of a
stately park； but that popular opposition to any such change had
always shown itself too bitter and uncompromising。 This seemed a
great pity； for while there were some fine trees； a great
majority of them were so crowded together that there was no
chance of broad； free growth either for trees or for shrubbery。
There was nothing of that exquisitely beautiful play； upon
expanses of green turf； of light and shade through wide…expanded
boughs and broad masses of foliage； which gives such delight in
any of the finer English or American parks。 Down to about half a
dozen years since it had apparently been thought best not to
interfere； and even when attention was called to the dark； swampy
characteristics of much of the Thiergarten； the answer was that
it was best to humor the Berliners； but about the beginning of my
recent stay the young Emperor intervened with decision and force；
his work was thorough； and as my windows looked out over one
corner of this field of his operations； their progress interested
me； and they were alluded to from time to time in our
conversations。 Interesting was it to note that his energy was
all…sufficient； the Berliners seemed to regard his activity as
Arabs regard a sand…storm；as predestined and irresistible；and
the universal verdict now justifies his course； both on sanitary
and artistic grounds。
The same thing may be said； on the whole； of the influence he has
exerted on the great adornments of his capital city。 The position
and character of various monuments on which he has impressed his
ideas； and the laying out and decoration of sundry streets and
parks； do credit not merely to his artistic sense； but to his
foresight。
This prompt yet wise intervention； actuated by a public spirit
not only strong but intelligent； is seen； in various other parts
of the empire； in the preservation and restoration of its
architectural glories。 When he announced to me at Potsdam his
intention to present specimens representative of German
architecture and sculpture to the Germanic Museum at Harvard； he
showed； in enumerating and discussing the restorations at
Marienburg and Naumburg； the bas…reliefs at Halberstadt； the
masks and statues of Andreas Schluter at Berlin； and the
Renaissance and rococo work at Lubeck and Danzig； a knowledge and
appreciation worthy of a trained architect and archaeologist。
As to his feeling for literature； his addresses on various
occasions show amply that he has read to good purpose； not only
in the best authors of his own； but of other countries。 While
there is not the slightest tinge of pedantry in his speeches or
talk； there crop out in them evidences of a curious breadth and
universality in his reading。 His line of reading for amusement
was touched when； at the close of an hour of serious official
business； an illustration of mine from Rudyard Kipling led him to
recall many of that author's most striking situations； into which
he entered with great zest； and at various other times he cited
sayings of Mark Twain which he seemed especially to enjoy。 Here
it may be mentioned that one may note the same breadth in his
love for art； for not only does he rejoice in the higher
achievements of architecture； sculpture； and painting； but he
takes pleasure in lighter work； and an American may note that he
is greatly interested in the popular illustrations of Gibson。
I once asked some of the leading people nearest him how he found
time to observe so wide a range； and received answer that it was
as much a marvel to them as to me； he himself once told me that
he found much time for reading during his hunting excursions。
Nor does he make excursions into various fields of knowledge by
books alone。 Any noteworthy discovery or gain in any leading
field of thought or effort attracts his attention at once； and
must be presented to him by some one who ranks among its foremost
exponents。
But here it should be especially noted that； active and original
as the Emperor is； he is not； and never has been； caught by FADS
either in art； science； literature； or in any other field of
human activity。 The great artists who cannot draw or paint； and
who； therefore； despise those who can and are glorified by those
who cannot； the great composers who can give us neither harmony
nor melody； and therefore have a fanatical following among those
who labor under like disabilities； the great writers who are
unable to attain strength； lucidity； or beauty； and therefore
secure praise for profundity and occult wisdom；none of these
influence him。 In these； as in other things； the Hohenzollern
sanity asserts itself。 He recognizes the fact that normal and
healthy progress is by an evolution of the better out of the
good； and that the true function of genius in every field is to
promote some phase of this evolution either by aiding to create a
better environment； or by getting sight of higher ideals。
As to his manner； it is in ordinary intercourse simple； natural；
kindly； and direct； and on great public occasions dignified
without the slightest approach to pomposity。 I have known scores
of our excellent fellow…citizens in little offices who were
infinitely more assuming。 It was once said of a certain United
States senator that 〃one must climb a ladder to speak with him〃；
no one would dream of making any assertion of this sort regarding
the present ruler of the Prussian Kingdom and German Empire。
But it would be unjust to suppose that minor gifts and
acquirements form the whole of his character； they are but a part
of its garb。 He is certainly developing the characteristics of a
successful ruler of men and the solid qualities of a statesman。
It was my fortune； from time to time； to hear him discuss at some
length current political questions； and his views were presented
with knowledge； clearness； and force。 There was nothing at all
flighty in any of his statements or arguments。 There is evidently
in him a large fund of that Hohenzollern common sense which has
so often happily modified German； and even European； politics。 He
recognizes； of course； as his ancestors generally have done； that
his is a military monarchy； and that Germany is and must remain a
besieged camp； hence his close attention to the army and navy。
Every one of our embassy military attaches expressed to me his
surprise at the efficiency of his inspections of troops； of his
discrimination betwee