按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
streets in the suburbs； and where the old admiralty wharves had
stood；for the space of perhaps an eighth of a mile along the
Neva；fine buildings had been erected。 But these were the only
evident changes； the renowned Nevskii Prospekt remaining as
formerlya long line of stuccoed houses on either side； almost
all poor in architecture； and the street itself the same unkempt；
shabby； commonplace thoroughfare as of old。 No new bridge had
been built across the Neva for forty years。 There was still but
one permanent structure spanning the river； and the great stream
of travel and traffic between the two parts of the city was
dependent mainly on the bridges of boats； which； at the breaking
of the ice in the spring； had sometimes to be withdrawn during
many days。
A change had indeed been brought by the emancipation of the
serfs； but there was little outward sign of it。 The muzhik
remained； to all appearance； what he was before： in fact； as our
train drew into St。 Petersburg； the peasants； with their
sheepskin caftans； cropped hair； and stupid faces； brought back
the old impressions so vividly that I seemed not to have been
absent a week。 The old atmosphere of repression was evident
everywhere。 I had begun my experience of it under Nicholas I； had
seen a more liberal policy under Alexander II； but now found a
recurrence of reaction； and everywhere a pressure which deadened
all efforts at initiating a better condition of things。
But I soon found one change for the better。 During my former stay
under Nicholas I and Alexander II； the air was full of charges of
swindling and cheatery against the main men at court。 Now next to
nothing of that sort was heard； it was evident that Alexander
III； narrow and illiberal though he might be； was an honest man；
and determined to end the sort of thing that had disgraced the
reigns of his father and grandfather。
Having made the usual visit to the Foreign Office upon my
arrival； I was accompanied three days later by the proper
officials； Prince Soltykoff and M。 de Koniar； on a special train
to Gatchina； and there received by the Emperor。 I found
himthough much more reserved than his fatheragreeable and
straightforward。 As he was averse to set speeches； we began at
once a discussion on various questions interesting the two
nations； and especially those arising out of the Behring Sea
fisheries。 He seemed to enter fully into the American view；
characterizing the marauders in that sea as 〃ces poachers
la〃using the English word； although our conversation was in
French； and on my saying that the Russian and American interests
in that question were identical； he not only acquiesced； but
spoke at considerable length； and earnestly； in the same sense。
He alluded especially to the Chicago Exposition； spoke in praise
of its general conception and plan； said that though in certain
classes of objects of art it might not equal some of the European
expositions； it would doubtless in very many specialties surpass
all others； and on my expressing the hope that Russia would be
fully represented； he responded heartily； declaring that to be
his own wish。
Among the various subjects noted was one which was rather
curious。 In the anteroom I had found the Greek Archbishop of
Warsaw arrayed in a purple robe and hatthe latter adorned with
an exceedingly lustrous cross of diamonds； and； engaging in
conversation with him； had learned that he had a few years before
visited China as a missionary； his talk was that of a very
intelligent man； and on my saying that one of our former American
bishops； Dr。 Boone； in preparing a Chinese edition of the
Scriptures had found great difficulty in deciding upon a proper
equivalent for the word 〃God；〃 the archbishop answered； 〃That is
quite natural； for the reason that the Chinese have really no
conception of such a Being。〃
Toward the close of my interview with the Emperor； then； I
referred to the archbishop； and congratulated the monarch on
having so accomplished and devoted a prelate in his church。 At
this he said； 〃You speak Russian； then？〃 to which I answered in
the negative。 〃But；〃 he said； 〃how then could you talk with the
archbishop？〃 I answered； 〃He spoke in French。〃 The Emperor seemed
greatly surprised at this； and well he might be； for the
ecclesiastics in Russia seem the only exceptions to the rule that
Russians speak French and other foreign languages better and more
generally than do any other people。
This interview concluded； I was taken through a long series of
apartments filled with tapestries； porcelain； carvings；
portraits； and the like； to be received by the Empress。 She was
slight in figure； graceful； with a most kindly face and manner；
and she put me at ease immediately； addressing me in English； and
detaining me much longer than I had expected。 She； too； spoke of
the Chicago Exposition； saying that she had ordered some things
of her own sent to it。 She also referred very pleasantly to the
Rev。 Dr。 Talmage of Brooklyn； who had come over on one of the
ships which brought supplies to the famine…stricken； and she
dwelt upon sundry similarities and dissimilarities between our
own country and Russia； discussing various matters of local
interest； and was in every way cordial and kindly。
The impression made by the Emperor upon me at that time was
deepened during my whole stay。 He was evidently a strong
character； but within very unfortunate limitsupright； devoted
to his family； with a strong sense of his duty to his people and
of his accountability to the Almighty。 But more and more it
became evident that his political and religious theories were
narrow； and that the assassination of his father had thrown him
back into the hands of reactionists。 At court and elsewhere I
often found myself looking at him and expressing my thoughts
inwardly much as follows： 〃You are honest； true…hearted； with a
deep sense of duty； but what a world of harm you are destined to
do！ With your immense physical frame and giant strength； you will
last fifty years longer； you will try by main force to hold back
the whole tide of Russian thought； and after you will come the
deluge。〃 There was nothing to indicate the fact that he was just
at the close of his life。
At a later period I was presented to the heir to the throne； now
the Emperor Nicholas II。 He seemed a kindly young man； but one of
his remarks amazed and disappointed me。 During the previous year
the famine； which had become chronic in large parts of Russia；
had taken an acute form； and in its train had come typhus and
cholera。 It was； in fact； the same wide…spread and deadly
combination of starvation and disease which similar causes
produced so often in Western…Europe during the middle ages。 From
the United States had come large contributions of money and
grain； and as； during the year after my arrival； there had been a
recurrence of the famine； about forty thousand rubles more had
been sent me from Philadelphia for distribution。 I therefore
spoke on the general subject to him； referring to the fact that
he was president of the Imperial Relief Commission。 He answered
that since the crops of the last year there was no longer any
suffering； that there was no famine worthy of mention； and that
he was no longer giving attention to the subject。 This was said
in an offhand； easy…going way which appalled me。 The simple fact
was that the famine； though not so