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found exceedingly interesting；a statesman who had gained a
power in the empire second to no other save the Emperor himself；
and had centered in himself more hatred than any other Russian of
recent times；the former Emperor's tutor and virtual minister as
regards ecclesiastical affairs； Pobedonostzeff。 His theories are
the most reactionary of all developed in modern times； and his
hand was then felt； and is still felt； in every part of the
empire； enforcing those theories。 Whatever may be thought of his
wisdom； his patriotism is not to be doubted。 Though I differ from
him almost totally； few men have so greatly interested me； and
one of the following chapters will be devoted to him。
But there were some other so…called statesmen toward whom I had a
very different feeling。 One of these was the minister of the
interior。 Nothing could be more delusive than his manner。 He
always seemed about to accede to the ideas of his interlocutor；
but he had one fundamental idea of his own； and only one； and
that was； evidently； never to do anything which he could possibly
avoid。 He always seemed to me a sort of great jellyfish； looking
as if he had a mission to accomplish； but； on closer examination；
proving to be without consistency； and slippery。 His theory
apparently was； 〃No act； no responsibility〃； and throughout the
Russian Empire this principle of action； or； rather； of inaction；
appears to be very widely diffused。
I had one experience with this functionary； who； I am happy to
say； has since been relieved of his position and shelved among
the do…nothings of the Russian senate； which showed me what he
was。 Two American ladies of the best breeding and culture； and
bearing the most satisfactory letters of introduction； had been
staying in St。 Petersburg； and had met； at my table and
elsewhere； some of the most interesting people in Russian
society。 From St。 Petersburg they had gone to Moscow； and； after
a pleasant stay there； had left for Vienna by way of Warsaw。
Returning home late at night； about a week afterward； I found an
agonizing telegram from them； stating that they had been stopped
at the Austrian frontier and sent back fifty miles to a dirty
little Russian village； that their baggage had all gone on to
Vienna； that； there being no banker in the little hamlet where
they were； their letter of credit was good for nothing； that all
this was due to the want of the most trivial of formalities in a
passport； that they had obtained all the vises supposed to be
needed at St。 Petersburg and at Moscow； and that； though the
American consul at Warsaw had declared these to be sufficient to
take them out of the empire； they had been stopped by a petty
Russian official because they had no vise from the Warsaw police。
Early next morning I went to the minister of the interior；
presented the case to him； told him all about these
ladies；their high standing； the letters they had brought； the
people they had met；assured him that nothing could be further
from possibility than the slightest tendency on their part toward
any interference with the Russian Government； and asked him to
send a telegram authorizing their departure。 He was most profuse
in his declarations of his willingness to help。 Nothing in the
world； apparently； would give him more pleasure； and； though
there was a kind of atmosphere enveloping his talk which I did
not quite like； I believed that the proper order would be given。
But precious time went on； and again came telegrams from the
ladies that nothing was done。 Again I went to the minister to
urge the matter upon his attention； again he assumed the same
jellyfish condition； pleasing but evasive。 Then I realized the
situation； went at once to the prefect of St。 Petersburg； General
von Wahl； although it was not strictly within his domain； and he；
a man of character and vigor； took the necessary measures and the
ladies were released。
Like so many other persons whom I have known who came into Russia
and were delighted with it during their whole stay； these ladies
returned to America most bitter haters of the empire and of
everything within it。
As to Von Wahl； who seemed to me one of the very best Russian
officials I met； he has since met reward for his qualities： from
the Czar a transfer to a provincial governorship； and from the
anarchists a bullet which； though intended to kill him； only
wounded him。
Many were the sufferers from this feature in Russian
administrationthis shirking of labor and responsibility。 Among
these was a gentleman belonging to one of the most honored
Russian families； who was greatly devoted to fruit…culture； and
sought to bring the products of his large estates in the south of
Russia into Moscow and St。 Petersburg。 He told me that he had
tried again and again； but the officials shrugged their shoulders
and would not take the trouble； that finally he had induced them
to give him a freight…car and to bring a load of fruit to St。
Petersburg as soon as possible； but； though the journey ought to
have taken only three or four days； it actually took several
weeks； and； of course； all the fruit was spoiled。 As I told him
of the fruit…trains which bring the products of California across
our continent and distribute them to the Atlantic ports； even
enabling them to be found fresh in the markets of London； he
almost shed tears。 This was another result of state control of
railways。 As a matter of fact； there is far more and better fruit
to be seen on the tables of artisans in most American towns；
however small； than in the lordliest houses of Moscow and St。
Petersburg； and this solely because in our country energetic men
conduct transportation with some little ambition to win public
approval and patronage； while in Russia a horde of state
officials shirk labor and care as much as possible。
Still another sufferer was a very energetic man who had held
sundry high positions； but was evidently much discouraged。 He
showed me specimens of various rich ores from different parts of
the empire； but lamented that there was no one to take hold of
the work of bringing out these riches。 It was perfectly clear
that with the minister of the interior at that time； as in sundry
other departments； the great question was 〃how not to do it。〃
Evidently this minister and functionaries like him felt that if
great enterprises and industries were encouraged； they would
become so large as to be difficult to manage； hence； that it
would be more comfortable to keep things within as moderate
compass as possible。
To this easy…going view of public duty there were a few notable
exceptions。 While De Witte was the most eminent of these； there
was one who has since become sadly renowned； and who； as I revise
these lines； has just perished by the hand of an assassin。 This
official was De Plehve； who； during my acquaintance with him； was
only an undersecretary in the interior department； but was
taking； apparently； all the important duties from his superior；
M。 Dournovo。 At various times I met him to discuss the status of
sundry American insurance companies in Russia； and was favorably
impressed by his insight； vigor； and courtesy。 It was； therefore；
a surprise to me when； on becoming a full minister； he bloomed
out as a most bitter； cruel； and evidently short…sighted
reactionary。 The world stood amazed at the murderous cruelties
against the Jews at Kishineff； which he might ea