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first across the continent-第65章

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On the twenty…ninth of June the party were well out of the snows in which they had been imprisoned; although they were by no means over the mountain barrier that had been climbed so painfully during the past few days。  Here they observed the tracks of two barefooted Indians who had evidently been fleeing from their enemies; the Pahkees。  These signs disturbed the Indian guides; for they at once said that the tracks were made by their friends; the Ootlashoots; and that the Pahkees would also cut them (the guides) off on their return from the trip over the mountains。 On the evening of the day above mentioned; the party camped at the warm springs which fall into Traveller's…rest Creek; a point now well known to the explorers; who had passed that way before。 Of the springs the journal says:

〃These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north side of Traveller's…rest Creek; which is ten yards wide at this place。 They issue from the bottoms; and through the interstices of a gray freestone rock; which rises in irregular masses round their lower side。 The principal spring; which the Indians have formed into a bath by stopping the run with stone and pebbles; is about the same temperature as the warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia。  On trying; Captain Lewis could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes; and then was affected with a profuse perspiration。 The two other springs are much hotter; the temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot springs in Virginia。  Our men; as well as the Indians; amused themselves with going into the bath; the latter; according to their universal custom; going first into the hot bath; where they remain as long as they can bear the heat; then plunging into the creek; which is now of an icy coldness; and repeating this operation several times; but always ending with the warm bath。〃

Traveller's…rest Creek; it will be recollected; is on the summit of the Bitter Root Mountains; and the expedition had consequently passed from Idaho into Montana; as these States now exist on the map; but they were still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide; or the backbone of the continent。  Much game was seen in this region; and after reaching Traveller's…rest Creek; the hunters killed six deer; great numbers of elk and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity。 On the thirtieth of July the party were at their old camp of September 9 and 10; 1805; having made one hundred and fifty…six miles from Quamash flats to the mouth of the creek where they now camped。 Here a plan to divide and subdivide the party was made out as follows:

〃Captain Lewis; with nine men; is to pursue the most direct route to the falls of the Missouri; where three of his party 'Thompson; Goodrich; and McNeal' are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage and canoes across the portage。 With the remaining six; he will ascend Maria's River to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch of it reaches as far north as latitude 50'0; after which he will descend that river to its mouth。 The rest of the men will accompany Captain Clark to the head of Jefferson River; which Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men will descend; with the canoes and other articles deposited there。 Captain Clark's party; which will then be reduced to ten men and Sacajawea; will proceed to the Yellowstone; at its nearest approach to the Three Forks of the Missouri。  There he will build canoes; go down that river with seven of his party; and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party join him。  Sergeant Pryor; with two others; will then take the horses by land to the Mandans。  From that nation he will go to the British posts on the Assiniboin with a letter to Mr。 Alexander Henry; to procure his endeavors to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of Washington。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。

The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek their friends; the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to accompany Captain Lewis a part of his route; so as to show him the shortest road to the Missouri; and in the mean time amused them with conversation and running races; on foot and with horses; in both of which they proved themselves hardy; athletic; and active。 To the chief Captain Lewis gave a small medal and a gun; as a reward for having guided us across the mountains; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed between them; by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick; of White Bearskin Unfolded。〃



Chapter XXIV

The Expedition Subdivided

On the third of July; accordingly; Captain Lewis; with nine of his men and five Indians; proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky and the Bitter Root ranges of mountains; his general course being due northwest of Clark's fork of the Columbia River。  Crossing several small streams that make into this river; they finally reached and crossed the Missoula River from west to east; below the confluence of the St。 Mary's and Hell…gate rivers; or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the name of rivers。 The party camped for the night within a few miles of the site of the present city of Missoula; Montana。  Here they were forced to part from their good friends and allies; the Indians; who had crossed the range with them。 These men were afraid that they would be cut off by their foes; the Pahkees; and they wanted to find and join some band of the Indian nation with whom they were on terms of friendship。  The journal gives this account of the parting:

〃We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions; who expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; which they felt the more; because they did not conceal their fears of our being cut off by the Pahkees。  We also gave them a shirt; a handkerchief; and a small quantity of ammunition。 The meat which they received from us was dried and left at this place; as a store during the homeward journey。 This circumstance confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark's River to the Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we came; for; though these people mean to go for several days' journey down that river; to look for the Shalees 'Ootlashoots'; yet they intend returning home by the same pass of the mountains through which they have conducted us。 This route is also used by all the nations whom we know west of the mountains who are in the habit of visiting the plains of the Missouri; while on the other side; all the war…paths of the Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark's River concentre at Traveller's…rest; beyond which these people have never ventured to the west。〃

During the next day or two; Captain Lewis kept on the same general course through a well…watered country; the ground gradually rising as be approached the base of the mountains。 Tracks of Indians; supposed to be Pahkees; became more numerous and fresh。  On the seventh of July; the little company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains; now properly named for the leaders of the expedition。 Here is the journal's account of their finding the Lewis and Clark Pass:

〃At the distance of twelve miles we left the river; or rather the creek; and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a direction north fifteen degrees east; again struck to the right; proceeding through a narrow bottom covered with low willows and grass; and abundantly supplied with both deer and beaver。 After travelling seven miles we reached the foot of a ridge; which we ascended in a direction north forty…five degrees east; through a low gap of easy ascent from the westward; and; on descending it; were delighted at discovering that this was the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and those of the Missouri。  From this gap Fort Mountain is about twenty miles in a northeastern direction。 We now wound through the hills and mountains; passing several rivulets which ran to the right; and at the distance of nine miles from the gap encamped; having made thirty…two miles。 We procured some beaver; and this morning saw tracks of buffalo; from which it appears that those animals do sometimes penetrate a short distance among the mountains。〃

Next day the party found themselves
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