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first across the continent-第49章

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ut asked for tiacomoshack; or chief beads; the most common sort of coarse blue…colored beads; the article beyond all price in their estimation。 Of these blue beads we had but few; and therefore reserved them for more necessitous circumstances。〃

The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find here some of the trading ships that were occasionally sent along the coast to barter with the natives; but none were to be found。 They were soon to prepare for winter…quarters; and they still hoped that a trader might appear in the spring before they set out on their homeward journey across the continent。 Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the natives in exchange for; the needful articles of food on the route。 But (we may as well say here) no such relief ever appeared。 It is strange that President Jefferson; in the midst of his very minute orders and preparations for the benefit of the explorers; did not think of sending a relief ship to meet the party at the mouth of the Columbia。  They would have been saved a world of care; worry; and discomfort。 But at that time the European nations who held possessions on the Pacific coast were very suspicious of the Americans; and possibly President Jefferson did not like to risk rousing their animosity。

The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they might well have thought that people should be web…footed to live in such a watery region。  In these later days; Oregon is sometimes known as 〃The Web…foot State。〃  Captain Clark; in his diary; November 28; makes this entry:  〃O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this dreadfull weather!〃  The gallant captain's spelling was sometimes queer。 Under that date he adds:

〃We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless and uncomfortable。  On this little neck of land we are exposed; with a miserable covering which does not deserve the name of a shelter; to the violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores; as well as our bodies; are completely wet; our clothes are rotting with constant exposure; and we have no food except the dried fish brought from the falls; to which we are again reduced。  The hunters all returned hungry and drenched with rain; having seen neither deer nor elk; and the swan and brant were too shy to be approached。 At noon the wind shifted to the northwest; and blew with such tremendous fury that many trees were blown down near us。 This gale lasted with short intervals during the whole night。〃

Of course; in the midst of such violent storms; it was impossible to get game; and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet of dried fish; This food caused much sickness in the camp; and it became imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game。 On the second of December; to their great joy an elk was killed; and next day they had a feast。  The journal says;

〃The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but; as if one whole day of fine weather were not permitted; toward night it began to rain。 Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the party; who were still more pleased when the elk killed yesterday was brought into camp。  This was the first elk we had killed on the west side of the Rocky Mountains; and condemned as we have been to the dried fish; it formed a most nourishing food。 After eating the marrow of the shank…bones; the squaw chopped them fine; and by boiling extracted a pint of grease; superior to the tallow itself of the animal。  A canoe of eight Indians; who were carrying down wappatoo…roots to trade with the Clatsops; stopped at our camp; we bought a few roots for small fish…hooks; and they then left us。 Accustomed as we were to the sight; we could not but view with admiration the wonderful dexterity with which they guide their canoes over the most boisterous seas; for though the waves were so high that before they had gone half a mile the canoe was several times out of sight; they proceeded with the greatest calmness and security。  Two of the hunters who set out yesterday had lost their way; and did not return till this evening。 They had seen in their ramble great signs of elk and had killed six; which they had butchered and left at a great distance。 A party was sent in the morning。〃

On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great pine tree this inscription:

     〃WM。 CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE                U。 STATES IN 1804 & 5。〃


A few days later; Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set out to find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp。 He did not return as soon as he was expected; and considerable uneasiness was felt in camp on that account。  But he came in safely。 He brought good news; they had discovered a river on the south side of the Columbia; not far from their present encampment; where there were an abundance of elk and a favorable place for a winter camp。 Bad weather detained them until the seventh of December; when a favorable change enabled them to proceed。  They made their way slowly and very cautiously down…stream; the tide being against them。 The narrative proceeds:

〃We at length turned a point; and found ourselves in a deep bay: here we landed for breakfast; and were joined by the party sent out three days ago to look for the six elk; killed by the Lewis party。 They had lost their way for a day and a half; and when they at last reached the place; found the elk so much spoiled that they brought away nothing but the skins of four of them。 After breakfast we coasted round the bay; which is about four miles across; and receives; besides several small creeks; two rivers; called by the Indians; the one Kilhowanakel; the other Netul。  We named it Meriwether's Bay; from the Christian name of Captain Lewis; who was; no doubt; the first white man who had surveyed it。 The wind was high from the northeast; and in the middle of the day it rained for two hours; and then cleared off。 On reaching the south side of the bay we ascended the Netul three miles; to the first point of high land on its western bank; and formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty pines; about two hundred yards from the water; and thirty feet above the level of the high tides。〃



Chapter XVIII

Camping by the Pacific

Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing of a place where salt could be made。  Salt is absolutely necessary for the comfort of man; and the supply brought out from the United States by the explorers was now nearly all gone。 They were provided with kettles in which sea…water could be boiled down and salt be made。  It would be needful to go to work at once; for the process of salt…making by boiling in ordinary kettles is slow and tedious; not only must enough for present uses be found; but a supply to last the party home again was necessary。 Accordingly; on the eighth of December the journal has this entry to show what was to be done:

〃In order; therefore; to find a place for making salt; and to examine the country further; Captain Clark set out with five men; and pursuing a course S。 60'0 W。; over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber; much of which bad fallen; passed the beads of two small brooks。 In the neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed; and they waded knee…deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie; covered with the plant known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis 'bearberry'。 Here is a creek about sixty yards wide and running toward Point Adams; they passed it on a small raft。  At this place they discovered a large herd of elk; and after pursuing them for three miles over bad swamps and small ponds; killed one of them。  The agility with which the elk crossed the swamps and bogs seems almost incredible; as we followed their track the ground for a whole acre would shake at our tread and sometimes we sunk to our hips without finding any bottom。 Over the surface of these bogs is a species of moss; among which are great numbers of cranberries; and occasionally there rise from the swamp small steep knobs of earth; thickly covered with pine and laurel。 On one of these we halted at night; but it was scarcely large enough to suffer us to lie clear of the water; and had very little
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