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acrost his trail； an' you'll never miss it。 Wal； if I find any cougar sign down in the canyon； I'll build two fires so as to let you know。 Though no hunter； I'm tolerably acquainted with the varmints。 The deer an' hosses are rangin' the forest slopes now； an' I think the cougars come up over the rim rock at night an' go back in the mornin'。 Anyway； if your dogs can follow the trails； you've got sport； an' more'n sport comin' to you。 But take it from medon't try to rope Old Tom。〃
After all our disappointments in the beginning of the expedition； our hardship on the desert； our trials with the dogs and horses； it was real pleasure to make permanent camp with wood； water and feed at hand； a soul…stirring； ever…changing picture before us； and the certainty that we were in the wild lairs of the lionsamong the Lords of the Crags！
While we were unpacking； every now and then I would straighten up and gaze out beyond。 I knew the outlook was magnificent and sublime beyond words； but as yet I had not begun to understand it。 The great pine trees； growing to the very edge of the rim； received their full quota of appreciation from me； as did the smooth； flower…decked aisles leading back into the forest。
The location we selected for camp was a large glade； fifty paces or more from the precipice far enough； the cowboys averred； to keep our traps from being sucked down by some of the whirlpool winds； native to the spot。 In the center of this glade stood a huge gnarled and blasted old pine； that certainly by virtue of hoary locks and bent shoulders had earned the right to stand aloof from his younger companions。 Under this tree we placed all our belongings； and then； as Frank so felicitously expressed it； we were free to 〃ooze round an' see things。〃
I believe I had a sort of subconscious； selfish idea that some one would steal the canyon away from me if I did not hurry to make it mine forever； so I sneaked off； and sat under a pine growing on the very rim。 At first glance； I saw below me； seemingly miles away； a wild chaos of red and buff mesas rising out of dark purple clefts。 Beyond these reared a long； irregular tableland； running south almost to the extent of my vision； which I remembered Clarke had called Powell's Plateau。 I remembered； also； that he had said it was twenty miles distant； was almost that many miles long； was connected to the mainland of Buckskin Mountain by a very narrow wooded dip of land called the Saddle； and that it practically shut us out of a view of the Grand Canyon proper。 If that was true； what； then； could be the name of the canyon at my feet？ Suddenly； as my gaze wandered from point to point； it was attested by a dark； conical mountain； white…tipped； which rose in the notch of the Saddle。 What could it mean？ Were there such things as canyon mirages？ Then the dim purple of its color told of its great distance from me； and then its familiar shape told I had come into my own againI had found my old friend once more。 For in all that plateau there was only one snow…capped mountainthe San Francisco Peak； and there； a hundred and fifty； perhaps two hundred miles away； far beyond the Grand Canyon； it smiled brightly at me； as it had for days and days across the desert。
Hearing Jones yelling for somebody or everybody； I jumped up to find a procession heading for a point farther down the rim wall； where our leader stood waving his arms。 The excitement proved to have been caused by cougar signs at the head of the trail where Clarke had started down。
〃They're here； boys； they're here；〃 Jones kept repeating； as he showed us different tracks。 〃This sign is not so old。 Boys； to…morrow we'll get up a lion； sure as you're born。 And if we do； and Sounder sees him； then we've got a lion…dog！ I'm afraid of Don。 He has a fine nose； he can run and fight； but he's been trained to deer； and maybe I can't break him。 Moze is still uncertain。 If old Jude only hadn't been lamed！ She would be the best of the lot。 But Sounder is our hope。 I'm almost ready to swear by him。〃
All this was too much for me； so I slipped off again to be alone； and this time headed for the forest。 Warm patches of sunlight； like gold； brightened the ground； dark patches of sky； like ocean blue； gleamed between the treetops。 Hardly a rustle of wind in the fine…toothed green branches disturbed the quiet。 When I got fully out of sight of camp； I started to run as if I were a wild Indian。 My running had no aim； just sheer mad joy of the grand old forest； the smell of pine； the wild silence and beauty loosed the spirit in me so it had to run； and I ran with it till the physical being failed。
While resting on a fragrant bed of pine needles； endeavoring to regain control over a truant mind； trying to subdue the encroaching of the natural man on the civilized man； I saw gray objects moving under the trees。 I lost them； then saw them； and presently so plainly that； with delight on delight； I counted seventeen deer pass through an open arch of dark green。 Rising to my feet； I ran to get round a low mound。 They saw me and bounded away with prodigiously long leaps。 Bringing their forefeet together； stiff…legged under them； they bounced high； like rubber balls； yet they were graceful。
The forest was so open that I could watch them for a long way； and as I circled with my gaze； a glimpse of something white arrested my attention。 A light； grayish animal appeared to be tearing at an old stump。 Upon nearer view； I recognized a wolf； and he scented or sighted me at the same moment； and loped off into the shadows of the trees。 Approaching the spot where I had marked him I found he had been feeding from the carcass of a horse。 The remains had been only partly eaten； and were of an animal of the mustang build that had evidently been recently killed。 Frightful lacerations under the throat showed where a lion had taken fatal hold。 Deep furrows in the ground proved how the mustang had sunk his hoofs； reared and shaken himself。 I traced roughly defined tracks fifty paces to the lee of a little bank； from which I concluded the lion had sprung。
I gave free rein to my imagination and saw the forest dark； silent； peopled by none but its savage denizens； The lion crept like a shadow； crouched noiselessly down； then leaped on his sleeping or browsing prey。 The lonely night stillness split to a frantic snort and scream of terror； and the stricken mustang with his mortal enemy upon his back； dashed off with fierce； wild love of life。 As he went he felt his foe crawl toward his neck on claws of fire； he saw the tawny body and the gleaming eyes； then the cruel teeth snapped with the sudden bite； and the woodland tragedy ended。
On the spot I conceived an antipathy toward lions。 It was born of the frightful spectacle of what had once been a glossy； prancing mustang； of the mute； sickening proof of the survival of the fittest； of the law that levels life。
Upon telling my camp…fellows about my discovery； Jones and Wallace walked out to see it； while Jim told me the wolf I had seen was a 〃lofer；〃 one of the giant buffalo wolves of Buckskin； and if I would watch the carcass in the mornings and evenings； I would 〃shore as hell get a plunk at him。〃
White pine burned in a beautiful； clear blue flame； with no smoke； and in the center of the campfire left a golden heart。 But Jones would not have any sitting up； and hustled us off to bed； saying we would be 〃blamed〃 glad of it in about fifteen hours。 I crawled into my sleeping…bag； made a hood of my Navajo blanket； and peeping from under it； watched the fire and the flickering shadows。 The blaze burned down rapidly。 Then the stars blinked。 Arizona stars would be moons in any other State！ How serene； peaceful； august； infinite and wonderfully bright！ No breeze stirred the pines。 The clear tinkle of the cowbells on the hobbled horses rang from near and distant parts of the forest。 The prosaic bell of the meadow and the pasture brook； here； in this environment； jingled out different notes； as clear； sweet； musical as silver bells。
CHAPTER 12。 OLD TOM
At daybreak our leader routed us out。 The frost mantled the ground so heavily that it looked like snow； and the rare atmosphere bit like the breath of winter。 The forest stood sol