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ok a stroll round the house by moonlight； thinking of the simple people and the strange productions of Aru； and then turned in under my mosquito curtain； to sleep with a sense of perfect security in the midst of these good…natured savages。
We now had seven or eight days of hot and dry weather； which reduced the little river to a succession of shallow pools connected by the smallest possible thread of trickling water。 If there were a dry season like that of Macassar； the Aru Islands would be uninhabitable； as there is no part of them much above a hundred feet high； and the whole being a mass of porous coralline rock； allows the surface water rapidly to escape。 The only dry season they have is for a month or two about September or October； and there is then an excessive scarcity of water； so that sometimes hundreds of birds and other animals die of drought。 The natives then remove to houses near the sources of the small streams； where； in the shady depths of the forest； a small quantity of water still remains。 Even then many of them have to go miles for their water； which they keep in large bamboos and use very sparingly。 They assure me that they catch and kill game of all kinds； by watching at the water holes or setting snares around them。 That would be the time for me to make my collections； but the want of water would be a terrible annoyance； and the impossibility of getting away before another whole year had passed made it out of the question。
Ever since leaving Dobbo I had suffered terribly from insects； who seemed here bent upon revenging my long…continued persecution of their race。 At our first stopping…place sand…flies were very abundant at night； penetrating to every part of the body； and producing a more lasting irritation than mosquitoes。 My feet and ankles especially suffered； and were completely covered with little red swollen specks； which tormented me horribly。 On arriving here we were delighted to find the house free from sand… flies or mosquitoes； but in the plantations where my daily walks led me； the day…biting mosquitoes swarmed； and seemed especially to delight in attaching my poor feet。 After a month's incessant punishment； those useful members rebelled against such treatment and broke into open insurrection； throwing out numerous inflamed ulcers； which were very painful； and stopped me from walking。 So I found myself confined to the house； and with no immediate prospect of leaving it。 Wounds or sores in the feet are especially difficult to heal in hot climates； and I therefore dreaded them more than any other illness。 The confinement was very annoying； as the fine hot weather was excellent for insects； of which I had every promise of obtaining a fine collection； and it is only by daily and unremitting search that the smaller kinds； and the rarer and more interesting specimens； can be obtained。 When I crawled down to the river…side to bathe； I often saw the blue…winged Papilio ulysses； or some other equally rare and beautiful insect； but there was nothing for it but patience； and to return quietly to my bird…skinning； or whatever other work I had indoors。 The stings and bites and ceaseless irritation caused by these pests of the tropical forests； would be borne uncomplainingly； but to be kept prisoner by them in so rich and unexplored a country where rare and beautiful creatures are to be met with in every forest ramblea country reached by such a long and tedious voyage； and which might not in the present century be again visited for the same purposeis a punishment too severe for a naturalist to pass over in silence。
I had； however； some consolation in the birds my boys brought home daily； more especially the Paradiseas； which they at length obtained in full plumage。 It was quite a relief to my mind to get these； for I could hardly have torn myself away from Aru had I not obtained specimens。
But what I valued almost as much as the birds themselves was the knowledge of their habits； which I was daily obtaining both from the accounts of my hunters； and from the conversation of the natives。 The birds had now commenced what the people here call their 〃sacaleli；〃 or dancing…parties； in certain trees in the forest； which are not fruit trees as I at first imagined； but which have an immense tread of spreading branches and large but scattered leaves； giving a clear space for the birds to play and exhibit their plumes。 On one of these trees a dozen or twenty full…plumaged male birds assemble together； raise up their wings； stretch out their necks； and elevate their exquisite plumes； keeping them in a continual vibration。 Between whiles they fly across from branch to branch in great excitement； so that the whole tree is filled with waving plumes in every variety of attitude and motion。 （See Frontispiece。） The bird itself is nearly as large as a crow； and is of a rich coffee brown colour。 The head and neck is of a pure straw yellow above and rich metallic green beneath。 The long plumy tufts of golden orange feathers spring from the sides beneath each wing； and when the bird is in repose are partly concealed by them。 At the time of its excitement； however； the wings are raised vertically over tile back； the head is bent down and stretched out； and the long plumes are raised up and expanded till they form two magnificent golden fans； striped with deep red at the base； and fading off into the pale brown tint of the finely divided and softly waving points。 The whole bird is then overshadowed by them； the crouching body； yellow head； and emerald green throat forming but the foundation and setting to the golden glory which waves above。 When seen in this attitude； the Bird of Paradise really deserves its name； and must be ranked as one of the most beautiful and most wonderful of living things。 I continued also to get specimens of the lovely little king…bird occasionally； as well as numbers of brilliant pigeons； sweet little parroquets； and many curious small birds； most nearly resembling those of Australia and New Guinea。
Here； as among most savage people I have dwelt among； I was delighted with the beauty of the human form…a beauty of which stay…at…home civilized people can scarcely have any conception。 What are the finest Grecian statues to the living； moving； breathing men I saw daily around me？ The unrestrained grace of the naked savage as he goes about his daily occupations； or lounges at his ease； must be seen to be understood； and a youth bending his bow is the perfection of manly beauty。 The women； however； except in extreme youth； are by no means so pleasant to look at as the men。 Their strongly…marked features are very unfeminine； and hard work； privations； and very early marriages soon destroy whatever of beauty or grace they may for a short time possess。 Their toilet is very simple； but also； I am sorry to say； very coarse； and disgusting。 It consists solely of a mat of plaited strips of palm leaves； worn tight round the body； and reaching from the hips to the knees。 It seems not to be changed till worn out； is seldom washed； and is generally very dirty。 This is the universal dress； except in a few cases where Malay 〃sarongs〃 have come into use。 Their frizzly hair is tied in a bench at the back of the head。 They delight in combing； or rather forking it； using for that purpose a large wooden fork with four diverging prongs； which answers the purpose of separating and arranging the long tangled； frizzly mass of cranial vegetation much better than any comb could do。 The only ornaments of the women are earrings and necklaces； which they arrange in various tasteful ways。 The ends of a necklace are often attached to the earrings； and then looped on to the hair…knot behind。 This has really an elegant appearance； the beads hanging gracefully on each side of the head； and by establishing a connexion with the earrings give an appearance of utility to those barbarous ornaments。 We recommend this style to the consideration of those of the fair sex who still bore holes in their ears and hang rings thereto。 Another style of necklace among these Papuan belles is to wear two； each hanging on one side of the neck and under the opposite arm； so as to cross each other。 This has a very pretty appearance； in part due to the co